Sunday, January 4, 2015

Part I: Welcome To New York

Chronica Domus
 A slice of New York's skyline from Central Park
Photo: Chronica Domus

My family and I have recently returned from our travels to a grand metropolis that I can only describe as one of the world's most beautiful, sophisticated, glitzy and glamorous cities.  Yes, New York is all of the above and much, much more. Architecturally and culturally rich, with ample open space to enjoy between the hubbub of city life, New York has more than a little something to delight the senses of all who pass through.  The city looks particularly glamorous at this time of year when dressed to the hilt in its festive finery, and believe me, practically everyone gets into the spirit here. Even the city's trees are not immune to a little decoration.

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Every branch is covered in white lights that must have taken hours to install
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Urns and window boxes present yet more opportunity to don a seasonal frill
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The festive sight that greeted us upon our arrival at the beautiful St. James' Church on Christmas morning
Photo: Chronica Domus


Nine days is simply not long enough to visit everything we had intended to see, but we made a valiant effort and saw a dizzying amount between the miles of walking and cabbing.  New York is a city of walkers, which suits me just fine, as I love to pound the pavements in whichever city I find myself.  It really is the best way of getting one's bearings and also seeing things which might otherwise be missed when traveling by car or train.  When one's feet begin to grumble, it is easy to hail one of the famous yellow cabs for the remainder of the journey.  It seemed as though every other vehicle on Manhattan's streets was painted yellow.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Our refuge in the city was The Carlyle hotel, an impossibly glamorous old-school beacon of elegance where supreme comfort and service is the name of the game.  The excellent staff anticipates a guest's every need and no request is ever too great. Simply put, The Carlyle is heaven on earth and a dreamy bolthole away from the clamors of city life. The downside, of course, is that one must eventually take leave of this pampered existence, which makes for a bittersweet separation when the time arrives to bid this temptress adieu, no matter how much you love home sweet home.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


Stepping into the lobby through the revolving doors for the first time reminded me so much of Claridge's in London, and no wonder.  I soon came to discover that Thierry Despont has had a hand in both storied hotels.

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The view as one enters the hotel
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Old-world glamour infuses every detail
Photo: Chronica Domus


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A more complete view of the elegant lobby with a fabulous geometric carpet
Photo: Chronica Domus


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I adore the vivid goldenrod color of this little corner of tranquility
Photo: Chronica Domus


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A magical tree befitting the glitz and glamour of The Carlyle
Photo: Chronica Domus


No detail was ever overlooked, including the festive arrangements of flowers which were always impeccably fresh.

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One of two large amaryllis arrangements as photographed upon our arrival
Photo: Chronica Domus


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A week later, the arrangements were replaced with nearly identical crimson versions
Photo: Chronica Domus

If you have not guessed it already, things are done the old-fashioned way around here, including the operation of the two guest elevators which are staffed by a small army of white-gloved operators.  I was wild for the old-style brass letterbox located on the ground floor, complete with it's chute which passes through each of the hotel's floors. Posting a letter was never so glamorous.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


Across the way one finds this cozy sitting area, complete with fireplace all aglow.  I could have sat here all evening watching the world go by.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


However, Bemelmans Bar is just around the corner which is always a good remedy to sooth the soul after a day's worth of sightseeing.

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The evening's entertainment at Bemelmans Bar
Photo: Chronica Domus


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One of the many charming features of the bar is the little lampshades adorned with Ludwig Bemelmans' illustrations from the Madeline books
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Every corner of the bar is decorated with Mr. Bemelmans' beguilling child-like murals painted during his year and a half residency at The Carlyle
Photo: Chronica Domus


Wouldn't you agree that sashaying down these incredibly gorgeous stairs could make anyone feel like an old-school Hollywood starlet?  I loved everything about them from the iron and brass railings to the black and white curve of the marble and stone.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


And, just so we don't forget where it is that we've been lucky enough to find ourselves, the soaps in our suite looked like this, demonstrating once again that no detail is ever left to chance, which adds to the singular experience of a stay at The Carlyle.

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Mmmm ...the aroma of this soap was divine, a perfect balance to suit both masculine and feminine sensibilities - how do they do it?
Photo: Chronica Domus


Over the next several posts, I plan on sharing some very special places we visited, places that might be inadvertently overlooked due to their lesser prominence in comparison to New York's more iconic landmarks.  I do hope you return and follow along as I hot-foot it across town on my adventures.

Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

22 comments:

  1. Oh Wow - what a lovely hotel. Looks perfect in every sense, and if it's been designed by the same Designer who did Claridges, then I'm sure each and every detail as you've described it was indeed perfection. My husband is often in New York for work, but has to stay at Company ordained hotels only, and often near down town for proximity to work, and complains bitterly about the large 5* chains he stays in in New York which he thinks are sub par compared to their other hotels around the world. It looks like the place to be are the traditional Grand Dames of the Hotel world who have kept up their standards and appearances. Looking forward to your next posts. Love that Bar!!

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    1. Hello Heidi,

      Yes, everything about the place was lovely indeed, and I enjoyed the intimacy of The Carlyle's jewel-box size.

      I noticed a book by the concierge's desk towards the end of our stay, that I wished I had purchased as a memento of our trip (they only had a few copies remaining), all about the hotel's storied pedigree. I've since learned that it is out of print. Drats! Must return soon.

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  2. Hello CD, When I was in college, I often used to visit New York. It's funny how the city reveals different sides. When I went, I took little notice of elegant hotels and restaurants; my goals were fancy galleries, such as Israel Sack, and out-of-the-way record and book shops, the grubbier the better.

    You are spot-on about the multi-faceted nature of New York, and about its being a great walking city. You never know what amazing thing there you are going to come across next.
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim,

      I've been fortunate enough to travel to many great cities and countries since childhood and depending on which decade of my life I was in has certainly determined what I seek out in whichever town I find myself. In my 20's visiting Los Angeles I too was looking into record shops (gosh, I believe my collection is somewhere at my parent's house in London), in my 30's it was all about antiques and bric-a-brac (which continues to this day) etc., etc. One thing that has remained constant, however, is visiting as many historic sites, ruins, and museums as possible, something instilled in me by my parents to whom I shall always be grateful.

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  3. Looking at the pictures I thought it was the Claridge's for a moment so makes sense that it is the same designer. I know the fumoir is loved by many but I prefer this bar as they have the most intimate concerts with acclaimed musicians. New York beckons as I haven't been in years but I am trying to go to new places so it might just have to wait and I will have to visit vicariously through you.

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    1. Hello Csw,

      I'm so glad that you too thought there was more than a little in common with Claridge's upon viewing the photographs in this post.

      I've enjoyed drinks in The Fumoir and found the space to be very intimate and more enjoyable for a cocktail-infused tête-à-tête. Bemelmans, I found, can become very crowded later in the evening, but enjoyable none-the-less.

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  4. Gorgeous. I look forward to your posts. I've been lucky enough to spend quite a bit of time in New York and there are so many gems there!

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    1. Hello Jen Lawrence, and welcome to the blog!

      You are indeed correct that there are many gems in New York, and certainly too many for us to have seen everything we intended to see. All it means is that we must plan another trip in the future.

      I recall talking with a visitor to London while at the British museum long ago, and the lady was telling me how she had moved to London a year ago and it would take her another year to see everything. That is how I felt about New York.

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  5. Oh I just love these pics and envy your 9 days at The Carlyle...Did you go to Café Carlyle? I hear Billy Joel & Christie Brinkley's daughter is performing there now and listened to her do "Just the Way You Are" on a vid....and I'll follow mum's guidance for once and not say anything else.
    When I'm in NYC these days I stay at the Soldier's & Sailors Club in what is essentially a dorm bunk to pinch pennies (usually they upgrade me to lusher digs out of pity if there's room) but love the Club itself started back in 1919 General "Black Jack" Pershing and Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt. Place drips of history and that fancy International Debutante Ball just held at The Waldorf supports it.
    http://ssmaclub.org/?page_id=428

    I'm hoping for at least 2 more NYC posts as your keen eye and beautiful prose are a great travel companion.

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    Replies
    1. Hello GSL,

      We did not make it to the Café Carlyle, but did enjoy a fabulously tasty dinner at the elegant Carlyle Restaurant one evening, topped off with the booziest Grand Marnier souffle imaginable.

      Please do write a post on the Soldier's & Sailors Club as I'd love to learn more about the history. I just saw some of the photographs of this year's Debutante Ball and did not know that event supported the S&SC.

      Oh, and yes I shall, of course, endeavor to fulfill your wishes of a few more NYC posts through my amateurish scribblings, and only pray they meet with your high expectations.

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  6. There's nothing I love better than visiting a grand old hotel! Thanks for bringing some excitement into my afternoon...just looking at all the brass and crystal makes me happy.

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    1. Hello Karen of Fair Oaks,

      I adore the Grand Dames too and sometimes I wonder how long some of them can survive in an era where places are constantly being updated and upgraded to meet modern sensibilities.

      So glad to read that you enjoyed this post and I do hope you come back again. Thank you for your comment.

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  7. Hello CD,

    Absolutely gorgeous. A visit to the US (including New York) is planned for some time in the future. In the meantime it's a pleasure to travel there vicariously through your travelogue.

    Spud.

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    1. Dearest Spud,

      How wonderful to hear news that you'll be winging it to the United States in the (hopefully) not too distant future. A visit to NY is a must to be sure, and I hope that my scribblings may spur you into action when planning your itinerary, which I have no doubt will be jam-packed with more than a few gems.

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  8. CD,
    I love NY. I've never stayed at the Carlisle but I might put it on my bucket list after seeing your photographs.
    My oldest son and his dear wife lived in NY the first two years they were married. I loved going for visits as they shared many great places to eat as well as visit. I can't wait to see your posts on your stay in that amazing city.
    xo,
    Karen

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    1. Hello Karen,

      I would most certainly recommend The Carlyle to anyone who enjoys old-world charm so yes, do put it on your bucket list. I know you'll be as bowled over as we were.

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  9. What a beautiful place and atmosphere to stay at over for the holidays season! Just perfect:).
    I do too love NY and the energy the city have. We are suppose to travel there again mid April to meet my brother there. ( We like sometimes to meet half way ...since they are in Bordeaux France and us in San-Francisco, New-York in our mid point meet!)
    Thank you for sharing !
    L-

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    1. Hello Laetitia,

      Yes, it certainly was perfect, and a slice of heaven. We don't usually travel over the Christmas break (except to London to be with my family), so this was quite a treat for us.

      New York in the spring sounds heavenly and what a great idea to meet your brother half way. We've talked about this with my family too in the past but, alas, we've yet to have all of our schedules coincide.

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  10. I look forward to your NYC series with great pleasure.I love it there, but only in frequent small doses. We usually make trip down for an annual Christmas soiree and some shopping but we didnt get there this year. I am now putting some serious thought into a wknd at the Carlyle to break up the winter doldrums. If I go, I will pickup that book for you

    Once again your pictures, and words, delight

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    1. Hello Bebe,

      How wonderful that you live close enough to such a cultured and sophisticated city that weekend breaks can be arranged on a whim. A few days at The Carlyle would certainly banish the winter blues but (warning!) you may never want to leave. And as for that book, that is most thoughtful of you but, beware, you may end up purchasing one for yourself too. It is such a beautiful tome of the hotel's glamorous history.

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  11. When semi public Christmas decorations are installed with flair such as those at the Carlyle, then they are a delight in my book. You may recall that I have an aversion to the profusion of those "thrown up" (literally) with very little thought or intelligence. I used to grow amaryllis on my balcony in Hong Kong, but sadly it's too hot for them here. They are a wonderful Christmas favourite.

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    1. Hello Columnist,

      Thanks for the chuckle, "thrown up" indeed!

      Have you tried forcing amaryllis inside? Perhaps a few bulbs chilled for several weeks in your refrigerator before planting in pots may do the trick.

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Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

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