Happy New Year to you all! It seems to me that 2017 is already whizzing by at an alarmingly fast pace, far swifter than I would wish it. Here we are, half way through January, and I am finally ready to turn my attentions to blogging once again.
Boxing day in my sister's neighborhood, where we happened to be staying for the duration of our visit, coincided with the refuse collection schedule. I could not imagine a more British sight than this:
It was also my good fortune to stumble across an unusually small Anglo-Irish cut glass decanter, the scale of which I have not previously seen (could it have been a traveling decanter one wonders?). It stands proud at a mere five inches, complete with stopper. This too made it into my hand luggage for its journey across the pond.
Wrapped in cheery orange tissue paper and protective bubble wrap, four capstan stemmed wine rummers, circa 1810, and two Regency whisky tumblers, headed home with us
I highly recommend a visit to Fisher-London the next time you find yourself in England's capital city. But, be warned! You may find it difficult to walk away empty handed.
This was not the only shopping spree we enjoyed during our trip. I'll leave that little excursion for a future posting.
An aspect of London life that has drastically turned around since I moved away some twenty-six years ago is the food and restaurant culture. One can now dine upon the national cuisine of countries from every corner of the globe. I am happy to report, however, that London's oldest restaurant Rules, has remained quite unapologetically unchanged. Situated on a small street behind Covent Garden, Rules is a bastion of old-fashioned classic British cooking. It is the type of place where one sees immaculately dressed, well-to-do London gentlemen taking their godsons to lunch when visiting from the country on their school holidays.
A few days later, in contrast to our delicious luncheon at this most venerable old-line restaurant, my husband and I had the great pleasure of dining with Naomi, London's 'It Girl' of the blogger world, and the authoress of Coulda Shoulda Woulda. We dined upon the very modern swanky Indian-British fusion creativity of Cinnamon Soho over lots of fun conversation and small plates and drinks. After several hours of fun-packed jabber, we moved the party down the road. Enjoying night caps within the chic surroundings of Ham Yard Hotel's bar, we did not want the evening to draw to a close. What fun we'd shared catching up since our visit last year and waxing lyrical on all manner of topics. Naomi had one more place to show us before biding adiu at an unusually deserted Piccadilly Circus (I think Londoners were still in bed nursing their New Year's hangovers several days into 2017). We crept upstairs to view The Dive Bar, one of Ham Yard's many private event spaces designed by Kit Kemp. This one boasted a gargantuan orange juice squeezer which could easily keep the biggest Vitamin C junkie satisfied for life.
Of course, I do so enjoy being an aunty to four very lovely and well-behaved nephews and nieces and as such, along with my daughter Patience, we paid a visit to a favorite childhood spot of mine, London's Natural History Museum. I have very fond memories of visiting there with my granny and I've also enjoyed many excursions with Patience over the duration of her young life. It is a fascinating place to while away an afternoon, whether you are accompanied by children or not. The gem room is a particularly engaging and creative exhibit not to be missed.
Since arriving home to lashings of much needed rainfall, I've been in rather alazy low-key mood. So much so that this was the view of the dining room table this morning:
I suppose I'd better get my act together and store it all away for another year. I did, if you recall, make mention at the beginning of this post how time has flown by so rapidly this year. I know, I know, excuses, excuses!
Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog. I do so because I enjoy them. If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.
We've enjoyed a marvelously relaxing three week break in and around London, celebrating Christmas and the New Year with the rest of my family. London always looks so perfectly dressed during the festive period. Everywhere one looks, there are lights, lights, lights.
Photo: Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus
There were also several days where viewing anything at all became rather a chore. London and her environs were plunged in soupy fog, the density of which caused holiday travelers quite a bit of bother.
Although we are quite accustomed to foggy days in San Francisco, it is never accompanied by glistening frost
Photo: Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus
As you might already know, a traditional British Christmas would not be complete without a flaming Christmas pudding. Here is 2016's pyrotechnic extravaganza:
The aurora borealis has nothing on this light show
Photo: Chronica Domus
Boxing day in my sister's neighborhood, where we happened to be staying for the duration of our visit, coincided with the refuse collection schedule. I could not imagine a more British sight than this:
The neighbors had obviously enjoyed a marvelous Christmas day nibbling on the scrumptious contents of this enormous, and decadent, Fortnums hamper
Photo: Chronica Domus
A leisurely walk within the country park close by provided the perfect Boxing Day tonic to the previous day's feasting and imbibing.
Photo: Chronica Domus
No trip to London would be complete, at least for my husband and I, without a trot around Portobello Road antiques market. This year, I was saddened to discover that one of my favorite arcades had shuttered its doors, only to be replaced by a theater and numerous clothing shops that are quite removed from the surrounding antiques related businesses. I do hope the unique character of this market will not be dilluted over time with the invasion of such establishments. All was not lost, however, as some of the dealers had found new homes within the Admiral Vernon Antiques Arcade, situated further down on Portobello Road. It was here that I managed to scoop up a Grainger Worcester porcelain teapot stand decorated in Pattern 228 for a song. I look forward to happily using it as a small serving platter filled with after dinner chocolates and other sweet treats.
The loot from my visit to the Portobello Road antiques market
Photo: Chronica Domus
It was also my good fortune to stumble across an unusually small Anglo-Irish cut glass decanter, the scale of which I have not previously seen (could it have been a traveling decanter one wonders?). It stands proud at a mere five inches, complete with stopper. This too made it into my hand luggage for its journey across the pond.
After our morning's successful haul, we took our good friend Reggie Darling's recommendation and visited a rather special shop. It belongs to the charmingly affable and exceedingly hospitable Hilary Fisher. Hilary's shop, Fisher-London, is the sort of place that fills one with wild desire and the inclination to do some serious damage to one's bank balance. Ms. Fisher has created an exquisite emporium bursting with all manner of (mainly) Georgian items one only dreams of finding in a lifetime of scouring antiques shops. Everything is handsomely displayed against a rather cheery orange backdrop. Hilary has impeccable taste in not only the items she selects to sell at her shop, but also in her choice of sherry. My husband and I were both treated to a generous dose of Hilary's hospitality with not one, but two rounds of sherry ("sweet or dry?", she asks) served, appropriately enough, from period sherry glasses. Were it not for a previous engagement, we would have happily imbibed and chit-chatted for far longer than we were able to with our engaging hostess.
A corner of Fisher-London crammed full of delightful Georgian treats
Photo: Chronica Domus
A storm bowl is such an elegant way of illuminatng one's surroundings
Photo: Chronica Domus
Wrapped in cheery orange tissue paper and protective bubble wrap, four capstan stemmed wine rummers, circa 1810, and two Regency whisky tumblers, headed home with us
Photo: Chronica Domus
I highly recommend a visit to Fisher-London the next time you find yourself in England's capital city. But, be warned! You may find it difficult to walk away empty handed.
Our Regency capstan stemmed rummers made it safely home thanks to Hilary's careful wrapping skills - I cannot wait to press them into service at our next dinner party
Photo: Chronica Domus
These Regency whisky tumblers will certainly be getting a good workout, filled with amber nectar and slowly sipped during long winter evenings around the fireplace
Photo: Chronica Domus
This was not the only shopping spree we enjoyed during our trip. I'll leave that little excursion for a future posting.
An aspect of London life that has drastically turned around since I moved away some twenty-six years ago is the food and restaurant culture. One can now dine upon the national cuisine of countries from every corner of the globe. I am happy to report, however, that London's oldest restaurant Rules, has remained quite unapologetically unchanged. Situated on a small street behind Covent Garden, Rules is a bastion of old-fashioned classic British cooking. It is the type of place where one sees immaculately dressed, well-to-do London gentlemen taking their godsons to lunch when visiting from the country on their school holidays.
Rules is always decked out so festively during the Christmas season
Photo: Chronica Domus
Of course, the only cocktail to order here is 'The Rules', a potent mix of Tanqueray, Dubonnet, and vintage Cremant
Photo: Chronica Domus
The king of cheeses, English stilton, served just as it should be
Photo: Chronica Domus
There are many dining rooms at Rules and each has walls jam-packed with interesting little works of art
Photo: Chronica Domus
A few days later, in contrast to our delicious luncheon at this most venerable old-line restaurant, my husband and I had the great pleasure of dining with Naomi, London's 'It Girl' of the blogger world, and the authoress of Coulda Shoulda Woulda. We dined upon the very modern swanky Indian-British fusion creativity of Cinnamon Soho over lots of fun conversation and small plates and drinks. After several hours of fun-packed jabber, we moved the party down the road. Enjoying night caps within the chic surroundings of Ham Yard Hotel's bar, we did not want the evening to draw to a close. What fun we'd shared catching up since our visit last year and waxing lyrical on all manner of topics. Naomi had one more place to show us before biding adiu at an unusually deserted Piccadilly Circus (I think Londoners were still in bed nursing their New Year's hangovers several days into 2017). We crept upstairs to view The Dive Bar, one of Ham Yard's many private event spaces designed by Kit Kemp. This one boasted a gargantuan orange juice squeezer which could easily keep the biggest Vitamin C junkie satisfied for life.
Photo: Chronica Domus
Of course, I do so enjoy being an aunty to four very lovely and well-behaved nephews and nieces and as such, along with my daughter Patience, we paid a visit to a favorite childhood spot of mine, London's Natural History Museum. I have very fond memories of visiting there with my granny and I've also enjoyed many excursions with Patience over the duration of her young life. It is a fascinating place to while away an afternoon, whether you are accompanied by children or not. The gem room is a particularly engaging and creative exhibit not to be missed.
The architecture of this magnificent building never ceases to amaze me - what an entrance this is!
Photo: Chronica Domus
The grand staircase of Hintze Hall where visitors stop to admire the Charles Darwin statue
Photo: Chronica Domus
The ornithology exhibits are among my favorites at the museum and are some of the few things remaining unchanged since my inaugural visit as a young lass
Photo: Chronica Domus
Since arriving home to lashings of much needed rainfall, I've been in rather a
Epiphany has come and gone and the Christmas decorations have yet to be put away
Photo: Chronica Domus
I suppose I'd better get my act together and store it all away for another year. I did, if you recall, make mention at the beginning of this post how time has flown by so rapidly this year. I know, I know, excuses, excuses!
Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog. I do so because I enjoy them. If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.
But how do you then pack the items on your flight? Hand luggage but still - all those delicate pieces? Do you repackage? You did do very well indeed and I must go visit Fisher London - I actually follow her on IG and keep meaning to go and have a peak. But it seems like the place that you won't be able to leave without something! It was so good to see you again and meet your husband. Such a good night CD - hope you come again soon!!
ReplyDeleteHello Naomi,
DeleteGood old-fashioned bubble wrap is my best friend when transportring loot found on my travels. Years ago I found an excellent flight bag that was designed to be used by the flight crews of United. It is made of tough canvas and has a flat bottom. The top opens right up, the ends expand as needed via zips, and it has comfortable carrying handles. It has proved its weight in gold when safely transporting all of our finds. I'm quite fortunate that I found that bag otherwise I wouldn't know what to do.
Mr CD and I had such a fun-packed evening that we'd enjoy a repeat the next time we visit London. There's still so much to talk about and we barely scratched the surface in your delightful company. Fun times indeed!
Someone put that F&M hamper in the bin??? Craziness. I could do so many things with that thing.
ReplyDeleteHello CK,
DeleteIndeed, they did.
AAAAACK!!!! I would have fished it right out of there in a heartbeat! Call me a dumpster-diver if you wish! Insanity! That beautiful basket with a lid!!! EGADS!!!
DeleteAnd, don't forget the leather straps to keep that lid tightly shut!
DeleteHappy New Year, CD.
ReplyDeleteAnd thank you for this (and future) posts on your London stay. I will be sharing your tips and recommendations with a young cousin who will be studying in Paris for 6 months later this year. He's madly saving for antique-seeking trips to London. I think his parents are quietly (and justifiably) terrified of how much loot will accompany him home!
Spud.
Hello Spud,
DeleteHappy New Year to you too!
Your young cousin is in for a treat having both Paris and London at his feet. I know from experience how thrilling walking the shops and stalls of the Marché aux puces will be for him. All he needs to do is bring lots of bubble wrap with him or have his treasures shipped home.
Rules looks Divine. On my next trip to London we'll will look in on your "charmingly affable" Ms Fisher and recommend her sherry towards a roast or quick pan sauce as GSL would prefer test driving a Regency tumbler with something of Speyside provenance.
ReplyDeleteSounds like you and Naomi are thick as thieves. I'm crashing your next party.
Hello GSL,
DeleteYes, it was quite a party I can tell you!
Ms. Fisher would be most pleased to visit with the charming GSL on his next jaunt to Londinium no doubt. I'm sure she'll have built up her supply of tumblers by then so you can take away a souvenir or two.
Rules is divine, as you state, but I was remiss at my not mentioning the one recent change on their cocktail menu, 'Kate Middleton’s Royal 29', created to commemorate her wedding to the prince.
I suppose even old-line restaurants feel the need to update from time to time.
Hello CD, There needs to be a moratorium on posts about London--I already have more recommendations than I can accommodate on my next three visits! I really need to spend a few years living there.
ReplyDeleteCongratulations on your lucky purchases. That antique glassware is pure elegance. Your teapot stand is a handsome one and looks to be in perfect condition. My favorite London shop is Charles Ede--I have not yet escaped from there with my wallet intact.
--Jim
--Jim
Hello Jim,
DeleteIt sounds as though you are well overdue for a visit.
I believe that one can live in London an entire year and not have enough time to absorb all of her goodness. Such a wonderful city (but I'm biased as it is, after all, my hometown).
I was most pleased to add our latest glassware purchases to the haul we already have here at home and I look forward to using them at our next dinner party.
You have excellent taste in having shopped at Charles Ede; such delicious treats. Do you have a favorite purchase you'd care to reveal?
What a lovely trip and it's so fun to think of you and Naomi spending an evening out on the town. That shop is so beautiful with the orange wall and matching tissue paper. You're allowed time off before getting your Christmas items sorted, it all looks very neat and tidy and you've been very busy. I hope 2017 is a wonderful year for you and your family. xx
ReplyDeleteHello Dani BP,
DeleteThe problem with meeting up with like-minded blogger friends is there is never enough time to get through all the topics of discussion that seem to flow so naturally during the course of the evening. We three had an excellent natter and look forward to a repeat performance on our next trip to London.
Do put Fisher-London on your "to do" list if you find yourself in London as I'm sure that you'll come away with more than a little treasure.
PS: Tree and ornaments are still on the dining room table as of today I'm afraid, ugh!
Welcome back home CD. London is lovely anytime of the year but is especially festive around the holidays. That Christmas pudding looks magnificent. Was it served with hard sauce? I love how Rules wrapped the Stilton-it's like an elegant cheese diaper.
ReplyDeleteBest,
KL Gaylin
Hello KL Gaylin,
DeleteI always think that a napkin around a truckle of stilton resembles a corset, a subliminal reminder of what I'd need to be wearing if let loose around this glorious cheese. I'll readily admit to becoming a glutton in its presence.
Yes, hard sauce for the pudding, but some in my family prefer custard or even whipped cream. I prefer mine delivered on a spoon as is.
Just glorious! I think London does Christmas spectacularly well.
ReplyDeleteI agree, as does New York and Paris, at least that's been my experience of things.
DeleteSadly, San Francisco has become rather anemic over the past several years. I miss a real evergreen tree in Union Square.
There's a recent piece in the New York Times which echoes your own commentary on the changes which have occurred in Portobello Road:
ReplyDeletehttps://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/13/arts/portobello-market-london-souvenirs.html?rref=collection%2Fsectioncollection%2Fdesign&action=click&contentCollection=design®ion=rank&module=package&version=highlights&contentPlacement=8&pgtype=sectionfront
Hello Toby Worthington, and thank you for bringing this article to light. I'm sure my readers, and future visitors to Portobello Road Market, will find it quite illuminating.
DeleteI must add, however, there are still plenty of wonderful dealers and shops in the area, and I never fail but to bring one or two treasures home with me. One must stride right past the tat-dealing shops first to come across the treasure. Well worth the trek.
I love love love this blog! I was trying to figure out how to send the link to the article in the NY Times; and the brilliant Toby Worthington had already done it! Bravo1
ReplyDeleteI am sure there are still many wonderful shops. The times they are a-changing.
Thank you most kindly. I am pleased you liked this post. I feel London has something for everyone to enjoy, no matter your interests.
DeleteThe NY Times article reminded me of how many other arcades at the market have closed in recent years but, as I mentioned in my comment to TW, there is still plenty of fodder for antiques lovers to revel in.
Sounds like you had a wonderful trip. The Natural history Museum is stunning. Beautiful architecture.
ReplyDeleteAdd me to the list of those who would have retrieved the Fortnums hamper.
Hello Diogenes,
DeleteThe NHM building is so absorbing when one stops to observe the minutiae of the architecture. Motifs of nature, such as leaves and climbing or crawling animals and insects, are carved into the stonework throughout. Not obvious to the casual observer, with all of the distractions going on, but they are there for the finding.
I LOVE LOVE LOVE Naomi! I have had such fun with you on my visits, including one to Ham's Yard and the OJ machine!
ReplyDeleteThat machine is quite the statement piece, to say nothing of the wallpaper in the ladies' loo.
DeleteJust rambling back for a bit and enjoying all over again. I'm reminded by one picture of a line in a book---of an entitled guest who ". . . always took the ripest spoonful from the Stilton." There'a a whole personality and way of life in that one sentence fragment. Not a polite one, but quite the robust grab-life-with-both-hands I'd like to try for about five minutes sometime.
ReplyDeleteYou ARE inspiring, dear friend, from Grace to Gusto.
rachel
Hello racheld,
DeleteThank you for coming back and providing that bit of tempting morsel on a spoon. Golly, I'm not sure if there is such a thing as "the ripest" when it comes to the divine King of Cheeses. I could eat it all, and all of it is equally good. Now that would be rude!