Shortly before my visit to London, I contacted Naomi, the witty, intelligent, and charming authoress of the blog Coulda Shoulda Woulda to see if she would be available and interested in meeting. I was delighted when she graciously accepted my invitation. She even suggested a most unusual place to meet.
Naomi writes with a wicked wry sense of humor and her blog is my primary source for all things au courant when it comes to London. I particularly enjoy her round up posts on things she has seen and done about town, and consider them a virtual conduit to my former hometown. Her posts have been known to make me homesick.
We had arranged to meet at 11 a.m. so I exited the busy Oxford Street tube station in plenty of time for our rendezvous. As I headed in the direction of our meeting place, I was delighted to have the opportunity to wander by one of my favorite Regency era churches.
One cannot fail to be wowed by All Souls church with its beautiful circular portico of mellowed honey color Bath stone. The structure sticks out like an exclamation mark at the northern end of central London's resplendent Regent Street.
All Souls church was designed by architect John Nash, who was responsible for much of the Regency era layout of London. His famous curve of buildings on Regent Street by Piccadilly Circus is a marvel, to say nothing of his elegant semicircular curve of stuccoed terraced houses on Park Crescent.
A little further along on my walk, another familiar building presented itself. Affectionately referred to as Auntie Beeb, or The Beeb, you may know it better as the British Broadcasting Corporation.
This iconic Art Deco building is the hub of the BBC's news, radio, and television broadcasting enterprise, which is beamed across the world to a hundred and fifty million strong weekly audience.
Within a few minutes I had located Foley Street and the place I was to meet Naomi.
The Attendant is probably the most unconventional coffee shop you will ever stumble upon. You see, it was at one time, long ago, a Victorian gentlemen's toilet. Yes, that's right, a toilet! I confess it took a little getting used to the fact that I would soon be sitting in an underground former public convenience, much like those I recall frequenting as a child when my mother would take my sisters and I shopping in the West End. The odious stench of disinfectant that I remember so vividly was now, thank goodness, gone, replaced by the pleasant aroma of roasted coffee beans.
Sipping cappuccinos with amiable Naomi was indeed a treat. In fact, I believe this particular coffee meeting was a personal best, lasting four entire hours. We managed to chat up a storm on all manner of topics which, I suppose, should not have come as a surprise judging by some of the subject matter that is covered on her blog. A worldly woman, Naomi is at ease talking on everything from matters of what constitutes a good cup of coffee (which The Attendant can certainly offer), to the finer points of British law. It was a true privilege to have met her, an opportunity I might otherwise have not experienced were it not for this extraordinary social medium known as The Blogosphere.
I hated to tear myself away, but I had a visiting relative to meet that afternoon back at the house. When we emerged from our underground coffee fest, the streets of Fitzrovia were wet. Walking a few blocks together before parting ways, Naomi delighted in pointed out some interesting local buildings and giving me a brief history of the area and its coffee connections. I think she would make a terrific tour guide in her spare time.
I was not prepared for the damp weather so frequently encountered in England and as I happened to be in the area, there was only one thing for it.
Many years ago, I swore off the purchase of yet another beautifully made umbrella because, inevitably, if you are anything like me, you too will be stamping your feet in frustration, trying to recall where you left the darn thing at exactly the moment you need it the most. However, as I was getting rather wet, and one of England's oldest family run businesses was but a few minutes walk from where I happened to be standing, you can guess what came next. As the saying goes "When in Rome...".
A retail establishment like James Smith & Sons is a rare sight in today's modern world, but ultimately, the quality of their sturdy and handsome umbrellas (and walking sticks), along with the fact that we humans are destined to lose them, has kept this family run business chugging along since 1830.
The shop itself is beautifully outfitted with original Victorian fittings and fixtures. Most of the umbrellas are still hand-made in the basement workshop, but the company sells so many nowadays that they have had to outsource some of their work to local small family firms.
As is typical, at least on the occasions I've visited, business was booming. The shop floor was jam packed with patrons selecting the most stylish umbrellas and walking sticks available for sale.
I knew exactly what I wanted and headed directly for the ladies' selection of umbrellas. I honed in on a beautiful claret colored model (the last one I owned was black), complete with a comfortable Whangee cane crook handle and, of course, the sturdy frame that has given James Smith & Sons umbrellas their world-class reputation. The icing on the cake of this particular model came in the form of a little horn ring that conveniently cradles the tips of the eight umbrella ribs in place when closed. What a splendid little detail that is! Every ladies' umbrella is also furnished with a color coordinated tassel.
Walking out into he wet and windy streets of London, I immediately put my new umbrella to good use. Not only that, but I am overjoyed to report that it has become a staple in my hand since returning home to San Francisco. You see, El Niño's downpours have made a welcome appearance to our parched city and for that, I am most pleased.
Next: A visit to my favorite museum.
Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog. I do so because I enjoy them. If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.
Naomi writes with a wicked wry sense of humor and her blog is my primary source for all things au courant when it comes to London. I particularly enjoy her round up posts on things she has seen and done about town, and consider them a virtual conduit to my former hometown. Her posts have been known to make me homesick.
We had arranged to meet at 11 a.m. so I exited the busy Oxford Street tube station in plenty of time for our rendezvous. As I headed in the direction of our meeting place, I was delighted to have the opportunity to wander by one of my favorite Regency era churches.
John Nash presiding over his Regency masterpiece
Photo: Chronica Domus
One cannot fail to be wowed by All Souls church with its beautiful circular portico of mellowed honey color Bath stone. The structure sticks out like an exclamation mark at the northern end of central London's resplendent Regent Street.
All Souls glows against the grey December skies
Photo: Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus
All Souls church was designed by architect John Nash, who was responsible for much of the Regency era layout of London. His famous curve of buildings on Regent Street by Piccadilly Circus is a marvel, to say nothing of his elegant semicircular curve of stuccoed terraced houses on Park Crescent.
Park Crescent
Photo: Chronica Domus
A little further along on my walk, another familiar building presented itself. Affectionately referred to as Auntie Beeb, or The Beeb, you may know it better as the British Broadcasting Corporation.
The entrance to Broadcasting House
Photo: Chronica Domus
This iconic Art Deco building is the hub of the BBC's news, radio, and television broadcasting enterprise, which is beamed across the world to a hundred and fifty million strong weekly audience.
Photo: Chronica Domus
Within a few minutes I had located Foley Street and the place I was to meet Naomi.
The Attendant
Photo: Chronica Domus
The Attendant is probably the most unconventional coffee shop you will ever stumble upon. You see, it was at one time, long ago, a Victorian gentlemen's toilet. Yes, that's right, a toilet! I confess it took a little getting used to the fact that I would soon be sitting in an underground former public convenience, much like those I recall frequenting as a child when my mother would take my sisters and I shopping in the West End. The odious stench of disinfectant that I remember so vividly was now, thank goodness, gone, replaced by the pleasant aroma of roasted coffee beans.
Photo: Chronica Domus
Sipping cappuccinos with amiable Naomi was indeed a treat. In fact, I believe this particular coffee meeting was a personal best, lasting four entire hours. We managed to chat up a storm on all manner of topics which, I suppose, should not have come as a surprise judging by some of the subject matter that is covered on her blog. A worldly woman, Naomi is at ease talking on everything from matters of what constitutes a good cup of coffee (which The Attendant can certainly offer), to the finer points of British law. It was a true privilege to have met her, an opportunity I might otherwise have not experienced were it not for this extraordinary social medium known as The Blogosphere.
Photo: Chronica Domus
I hated to tear myself away, but I had a visiting relative to meet that afternoon back at the house. When we emerged from our underground coffee fest, the streets of Fitzrovia were wet. Walking a few blocks together before parting ways, Naomi delighted in pointed out some interesting local buildings and giving me a brief history of the area and its coffee connections. I think she would make a terrific tour guide in her spare time.
I was not prepared for the damp weather so frequently encountered in England and as I happened to be in the area, there was only one thing for it.
Photo: Chronica Domus
Many years ago, I swore off the purchase of yet another beautifully made umbrella because, inevitably, if you are anything like me, you too will be stamping your feet in frustration, trying to recall where you left the darn thing at exactly the moment you need it the most. However, as I was getting rather wet, and one of England's oldest family run businesses was but a few minutes walk from where I happened to be standing, you can guess what came next. As the saying goes "When in Rome...".
Probably the best place to seek shelter during a rainy spell in London
Photo: Chronica Domus
A retail establishment like James Smith & Sons is a rare sight in today's modern world, but ultimately, the quality of their sturdy and handsome umbrellas (and walking sticks), along with the fact that we humans are destined to lose them, has kept this family run business chugging along since 1830.
Photo: Chronica Domus
The shop itself is beautifully outfitted with original Victorian fittings and fixtures. Most of the umbrellas are still hand-made in the basement workshop, but the company sells so many nowadays that they have had to outsource some of their work to local small family firms.
Photo: Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus
I knew exactly what I wanted and headed directly for the ladies' selection of umbrellas. I honed in on a beautiful claret colored model (the last one I owned was black), complete with a comfortable Whangee cane crook handle and, of course, the sturdy frame that has given James Smith & Sons umbrellas their world-class reputation. The icing on the cake of this particular model came in the form of a little horn ring that conveniently cradles the tips of the eight umbrella ribs in place when closed. What a splendid little detail that is! Every ladies' umbrella is also furnished with a color coordinated tassel.
My new umbrella about to be pressed into action
Photo: Chronica Domus
Walking out into he wet and windy streets of London, I immediately put my new umbrella to good use. Not only that, but I am overjoyed to report that it has become a staple in my hand since returning home to San Francisco. You see, El Niño's downpours have made a welcome appearance to our parched city and for that, I am most pleased.
Next: A visit to my favorite museum.
Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog. I do so because I enjoy them. If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.
We used to stay at The Langham, so I am familiar with the area. The thought of drinking coffee in that rather unusual spot takes a bit of mind control. Love gorgeous umbrellas and have had a few in my time, lost or stolen*, and now replaced with several very downmarket pieces, (which naturally because of their lack of desirability, seem to have remained with me for far too long!). (*I've had two good Fox's stolen when I've attended large cocktail parties at private residences; somebody had obviously decided they would go home with mine rather than their own, or non-existent one; thereafter I swore I would never have an expensive one.)
ReplyDeleteHello columnist,
DeleteWe stayed at The Langham for an evening on our last visit to London as my husband and I had reservations at our favorite restaurant and decided to stay nearby. I was disappointed that the hotel's breakfast area was under construction. Since we didn't fancy ordering room service, we happily remedied the situation by taking a brief walk to Claridges and enjoying a full English there.
Your appalling story of disappearing umbrellas reminded me of a scene in SITC where Carrie Bradshaw attended a party and had her expensive shoes stolen. Also, as a child, I recall my mother having a diamond and sapphire ring stolen from her bag when we were visiting a cousin's house (there were other people in attendance aside from family members). It was all terribly awkward and my dear mother had to just let the situation slide after much personal angst, all for familial harmony's sake.
So good to relive that day! Luckily coffee was the notable smell there otherwise we wouldn't have lasted more than 5 minutes hehe. I also think about those I wouldn't have met without blogging and in times of debating to continue I think how enriching it's been with an exception here and there!! Love that umbrella with the handle and so nice to hear a small business doing well. Can't wait for your next trip over CD:)
ReplyDeleteDearest Naomi,
DeleteI adored writing this post for I have pleasant memories of our little coffee rendezvous and hope to repeat it with you on my next trip to London.
You'll be happy to learn that just before my departure, my husband and I accompanied my father to visit an old tailor friend in the area and we just happened to turn the corner and there was The Attendant. Of course, we had to go in and have a cup of coffee. It felt quite fun to show this place off to them.
Hello CD, I recall seeing a documentary showing a London W.C. in which the tanks were clear glass with live goldfish swimming in them, so I guess your coffee shop fits in well with this line of oddity.
ReplyDeleteOn one of my trips to London, I stayed right near James Smith, and so got a look at their beautiful stock, but really wasn't tempted to make a purchase--downtown Cleveland is so gusty that I'm sure even the most solid umbrella would soon be torn to shreds.
--Jim
Hello Jim,
DeleteThis very morning, I read a posting on the blog Spitalfields Life about the state of these former public conveniences. It may interest you to take a peek too as some of them look quite derelict:
http://spitalfieldslife.com/2016/01/21/agnese-sanvitos-toilets-at-dawn/
You are quite right, gusty winds and fine umbrellas don't mix! However, I'm putting mine to the test and so far, so good.
beautiful color! Adding this name to the roster of places I must visit in London.
ReplyDeleteOh, keep reading as I have a couple more of my favorite churches coming up in future postings.
DeleteHeaded out for Sweetpea at school, then to piano lessons, but I wanted to tell you the laugh I got from just the coffeeshop---I feel as if I could be comfortably RELIEVED anywhere in London after the past two days with A Gentle Author's Spitalfields tours of practically every LOO in the Kingdom.
ReplyDeleteMy best TEE-Hee all day!! Moire non,
r
Hello racheld,
DeleteIt has been decades since these public conveniences even entered my thoughts but I can see their appeal and a need for them today. The ones I've had occasion to visit with my mother were always spotlessly clean and always centrally located on the busy shopping streets of London. I do hope some of the examples featured in the Spitalfields blog will find new life as something other than their intended purpose.
Well I just love your new umbrella CD - it looks so smart, the tassel is divine, and how lucky you were to be in the neighbourhood where this wonderful specialist store exists when you had a downpour. I always say I hate shopping (and I do - I was in Singapore over the past few days and it's all big malls for shopping, and I couldn't wait to get out of them), but I love a specialist store with interesting and unusual things in them and can happily spend an hour poking around. The umbrella is a great souvenir of your time at home over Christmas.
ReplyDeleteAlso I am so envious that you and Naomi met up!! I love meeting up with fellow bloggers, and as Naomi said in her comment it's this that has kept me blogging. It's nice to connect with like minded people all over the world. Your trip sounds absolutely wonderful - I'm just getting back around all the blogs and catching up after our own family holiday away. x
Hello Heidi, and welcome back home (I recall you had told me you were going away on holiday over Christmas).
DeleteLike you, I too have developed a strong dislike of shopping at malls (actually, I never did enjoy them) and chain stores. No, I would much rather seek out a small and specialized retail establishment. That is why I adore London so very much, and that is why I always seem to get myself into trouble when out and about shopping there.
I had a wonderful time meeting dear Naomi and again, like you, enjoy the connections I've made with like-minded bloggers and commenters. I'm quite a social animal at heart and blogging, I suppose, is an extension of that trait. I look forward to the day I get the opportunity to meet you too.
CD,
ReplyDeleteYou always take me on tour with you with your beautiful words and descriptions. I love London and seeing the places you passed on your way to meet Naomi brightened my morning. Thank you.
Karen
Hello Karen,
DeleteThank you so much for your kind comment. I do hope my readers feel they are able to tag along when I write this stuff. I think Mr. Worthington expressed it rather well in his comment on my prior post - "armchair travel"!
Coffee with you and Naomi would be a treat even in Waco, TX but would much prefer you both accompany me to your fav London haunts.
ReplyDeleteHello GSL,
DeleteWell, I must admit, sipping a cup of coffee in a former public convenience will certainly rank high in my list of unforgettable memories, but I think that may have been the case anyway had we met elsewhere. Naomi was indeed unforgettable.
Dear CD,
ReplyDeleteLove your London posts and I now have umbrella envy! I am seriously tempted to splurge on an umbrella with a parrot handle on their website. Do you ever take tea in one of the popular places in town or is that considered too touristy? I fondly remember tea at Fortnum and Mason in the mid-80s and wanted to relive that experience more recently. However the prices everywhere were ridiculously high and we opted, instead, to buy tickets to another show.
Happy new year.
Best, KL Gaylin
Hello KL Gaylin,
DeletePleased as punch that you are enjoying my London posts. With regards to taking tea in London, I've not done that for years. However, the last time I did so was at the Café Royal at the bottom of Regent Street and I recall it was absolutely divine. The sandwiches and cakes (plentiful), the tea (flowing), and the atmosphere of the room was heaven! There was even a harpist in the corner playing her delightful instrument. The place closed down for a big renovation for a couple of years but a quick glance at their web site shows that it has once again opened for business.
I think those animal handled umbrellas are such fun. I adore the sturdy quality and detail of all the James Smith umbrellas I've owned. I just fear I shall misplace my latest but I'm resolved to double my efforts not to this go around. Do please let me know if you too succumb to their charms.
Fabulous umbrella! Jealous you got to meet Naomi. She seems so lovely.
ReplyDeleteHello Jen,
DeleteYes, lovely indeed and such fun it was!
Pleased you liked the umbrella as much as I do. Now to make sure I hold onto it tightly.
How how fun! I imagine the two of you were hysterically funny and down-to-earth both. And the umbrella is fantastic.
ReplyDeleteYes, we had a fabulous time gassing about all manner of things. I'm sure the barista was wondering when the heck we'd be making an exit as we managed to stretch that coffee for hours.
Delete