Sunday, October 28, 2018

Exploring New Orleans Part II of III: A Visit to Pitot House

Chronica Domus
Pitot House was designed by architect and builder Hilaire Boutté in 1799
Photo: Chronica Domus


Of all the historic house museums located in New Orleans, it was Pitot House that I was most looking forward to visiting.  Perhaps not such an obvious choice for most visitors of this fair city - a streetcar up to City Park will take you there from the French Quarter - it was a house I had longed to see for myself.  I first read about Pitot House in Vance Muse's 'Old New Orleans, Great American Homes', a book I discovered at a public library early in the 1990s when I first arrived on these shores from England.  A copy of the book now sits on the shelves of my own library.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


What drew me to Pitot House was the fact that it looks like no other dwelling I have stumbled across in my new country of residence.  Certainly, one would expect to see such houses in the tropical climes of the West Indies, but here in America?   With its stucco-covered brick and post construction, wide loggia, colonnettes, shutters, and cooling brick floors, this house happens to be perfectly suited to New Orleans' subtropical humid weather.

Although Pitot House is not a grand house, having been built as a family home - it's first resident, Madame Rillieux, was Edgar Degas' maternal great-grandmother - its intimate scale and architectural vernacular make it an endearing one.  Sitting prettily within its lush gardens along the banks of picturesque Bayou St. John, one could happily spend hours sitting idly on the gallery, gazing out at the watery view, or passing the time downstairs picking grapefruits from the garden, or perhaps clipping flowers to bring indoors.  Someone, please, wake me up, I have a blog post to write!

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


The garden is delineated from the street by rugged old cypress pieux fencing, seen in the first photograph of this post.  Cypress wood is often referred to in these parts as 'eternal wood' because of its rot-resistant qualities.  It does, after all, grow submerged within the swampy environs of the bayou.  Brick walkways, citrus trees, Amethyst beautyberry, as well as a host of other shrubs and trees (Cypress and Magnolia specimens) happily co-exist in the well-tended garden.

Chronica Domus
Brick paths beckon one to explore the lush gardens
Photo: Chronica Domus


Built as a country retreat in 1799 on a thirty acre plot of land,  Pitot House is the only Creole colonial country house open to the public in New Orleans.   James Pitot and his family lived there from 1810 to 1819.  He was the first mayor of the newly incorporated American city of New Orleans.

Chronica Domus
Our guide, Ms. Hallie Borstel, points out the position of Pitot House in relation 
to New Orleans on an old map of Louisiana above the fireplace in the dining room
Photo: Chronica Domus


In 1963 Pitot House was moved two-hundred feet east to its present location in an effort to save it from demolition by the Louisiana Landmarks Society.  Since then, the society has done an admirable job of restoring and preserving the house and its grounds for the visiting public to enjoy.

Chronica Domus
Here's an image of the house in 1965 in the midst of reconstruction
(notice the dormer windows in the roof, now removed, features not original to the house)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Throughout the house are dozens of french doors and windows that catch the cross-breezes when opened, helping to cool the house and its occupants.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


The brick-floored rooms and 'cabinets' on the ground floor of Pitot House are multi-purpose rooms where furniture would be moved around according to the family's needs.  The rooms were also used for storage.  

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


There are no hallways in the house (upstairs one can come and go between rooms using the French doors on the gallery) and the only starcase in the house is located outside.

Chronica Domus
I love how the handrail curves on this outdoor staircase
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Let's look around upstairs
Photo: Chronica Domus


Ascending the staircase one lands at the shuttered gallery.  I loved the colonnettes between the shutters, a detail I don't recall seeing anywhere else prior to my visit to Pitot House.

Chronica Domus
Shutters help keep the gallery upstairs cool and the rains at bay
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A detailed view of the colonnettes that are placed between the shutters
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


The photograph above shows the French door that leads into a small bedroom.  The room is modestly furnished with an armoire, a few chairs, and a bed.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Beneath the bedspread is a Spanish-moss stuffed mattress that rests upon a rope bed
Photo: Chronica Domus


Another bedroom in the house is set up as the family had it during the hot summer months.  The headboard has been removed and the bed sits forward of the wall to allow for air circulation.  The gauzy canopy helps keep the insects at bay.  Vetiver, a natural insect repellant, was also employed.

Chronica Domus
This bedroom is set up for the summer season where mosquitoes and insects are at their worst
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Evidence of the oft-present need to cool down was everywhere in the house
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
The view from the upstairs gallery which overlooks Bayou St. John
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
The French doors on the gallery are used to gain access into and egress from the upstairs rooms
Photo: Chronica Domus


By far the most formal room in the house is the parlor where James Pitot and his family entertained visiting dignitaries, friends, writers, and polititians.  

Chronica Domus
Pitot favored American Federal furniture when furnishing the rooms of Pitot House
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
One of the few imported pieces in the house is this French pianoforte, a belated wedding
present to Genevieve-Sophie, Mr. Pitot's second wife (the first, Marie-Jeanne, died during
childbirth) - the portrait is of James Pitot
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
The elaborately carved fireplace lends an air of formality to the room
(of interest to film buffs: the upper panel's floral decoration was done for the filming of
Interview With A Vampire and has yet to be removed)
Photo: Chronica Domus


A final bedroom completes the tour of the upstairs of Pitot House.  The portrait over the fireplace, which is not original to the house, is of Genevieve-Sophie Pitot.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A portrait of Genevieve-Sophie Pitot hangs over the bedroom fireplace
Photo: Chronica Domus


In 1819 James Pitot's finances forced him to leave his West Indies inspired country retreat on the bayou and return to New Orleans.  He lived there until his death in 1831.  I am thankful to the Louisiana Landmarks Society for having the foresight to save this handsome house and James Pitot's legacy so that we fortunate visitors are able to enjoy it today.

Chronica Domus
Thanks to Ms. Hallie Borstel's enthusiasm for architectural preservation, our visit to
Pitot House was a fact-filled and enjoyable one
Photo: Chronica Domus


I highly encourage visitors to New Orleans - too many of whom never explore much beyond the French Quarter - to ride the streetcar up to City Park and walk the few minutes it takes to reach Pitot House.  A tour of  this Creole country abode set upon the waters of picturesque Bayou St. John is a real treat indeed and could, possibly, be the highlight of their visit to New Orleans.  It certainly was for me.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Pitot House is located at 1440, Moss Street, New Orleans, LA 70119.  Please check the website for opening hours.


Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.


10 comments:

  1. Hello CD, Although, as you point out, Pitot House is not a grand mansion, there are interesting architectural features and details everywhere you look, which you have captured in your photos. This is one of those houses that really lets you feel how it might have been to live in another age.

    (The mosquito net is not yet outdated. I have to use one here, and I absolutely hate it! Oddly, in the intense summer heat there are not very many mosquitoes, but when the weather cools a bit they are abundant.)
    --Jim

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jim,

      I'm not surprised to hear that mosquito nets are still in use today in hot regions around the globe. Some solutions to perpetually pesky situations just refuse to go out of style, and cannot be improved upon. Although the hated mosquito net is a pain for you, I'm sure the benefits outweigh the drawbacks when aiming for a fair night's sleep.

      Delete
  2. You have done a wonderful job of relating how lovely this home is. Thank you for sharing this. If and when I get to New Orleans, I will put this at the head of the list of sites to visit. My maternal great-grandfather is buried in New Orleans. He immigrated to New Orleans from China!

    slf

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello slf,

      I'm most pleased you enjoyed the tour of Pitot House through my eyes. I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time when (not if!) you visit. Besides, you'll most certainly be touring the cemeteries, what with your family connection. I visited Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 when I toured the garden district and (I know it is strange to say) enjoyed it immensely. I could feel the history of New Orleans' former residents all around me.

      Please do come back and let me know if you enjoyed Pitot House. How could you not?

      Delete
  3. Beautiful! One day I will see this city, where my father was born.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Granny Sue,

      Yes, do yourself a favor and get thee to New Orleans pronto. It really is a city full of surprises. Pitot House is just one of them.

      Delete
  4. Hello CD,

    I see what you mean about the architecture being surprising, Pitot House does look like it belongs in the tropics, and that it was a very comfortable home for its residents. You've highlighted some details that would have caught my eye, too - you've given us a great tour with your lovely pics!

    Were you holidaying in New Orleans with Mr. CD sans Patience?

    Looking forward to your next installment!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Pipi,

      So pleased to learn we share an eye for detail when it comes to matters of architecture. Something as seemingly insignificant as the curve of a handrail or those little colonnettes upstairs on the gallery add character and interest to a house but could quite easily be taken for granted. I live for the details!

      Yes, our dear Patience is neck-deep in school studies at present and did not want to miss a day of academic instruction. Fear not, for she made the most of her time at home while her parents were galavanting around New Orleans (I think she could not wait to get rid of us!). I, on the other hand, would have jumped at the chance of escaping school when I was Patience's age (knowing full well that I would obviously have to make up for any lost work).

      Delete
  5. Liza, I’m so glad I could give you and your husband a tour of the house! I hope you enjoyed your stay in New Orleans, and I look forward to checking out the rest of your blog!

    Best,
    Hallie

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Hallie,

      The pleasure was all ours! We thoroughly enjoyed the house and the enthusiasm you showed in sharing your knowledge of Pitot House with us. It really was the highlight of our stay in New Orleans.

      Fondly,
      CD

      Delete

Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...