An Impromptu Visit to San Francisco's "Little Italy"

Columbus Avenue lies at the heart of North Beach
Photo: Chronica Domus

Last Sunday was one of those rare occasions that found us with no social obligation to fulfill. We arose late, bleary eyed from having spent the previous evening at home with friends enjoying refreshing cucumber gimlet cocktails (it was, after all World Gin Day, and we simply could not let that slip by without a nod to Mother's Ruin, could we?).  The house was clean and orderly, our "to do" list had been checked off, and Patience our daughter was away for the weekend visiting relatives. The gaping hole in our schedule was unfamiliar territory but, rather opportune as I discovered.

"Why not trot down to North Beach for a late lunch and an afternoon walk?" I said to my husband.  And so, we did.

North Beach is a vibrant historic neighborhood located at the northeasterly corner of the city.  The area was home to the Beat poets of the 1950's and 1960's and to large numbers of American Italian families.  North Beach is often referred to as "Little Italy" for reasons that will immediately become apparent upon landing on the main drag, Columbus Avenue.

Chock full of Italian delicatessens selling specialty ingredients for the home cook, pizzerias, restaurants, bakeries, and cafés, North Beach is undeniably Italian in flavor. It is also home to two of the city's largest Catholic churches.

We just happened to be walking by when we spotted this fellow dashing across the street to meet his friends for lunch:

A Capuchin friar takes his leave of the church of St. Francis of Assisi

Photo: Chronica Domus

If you look carefully at the following photograph, you will see a few canine companions accompanying their owners who are seated at the church steps.  St. Francis of Assisi was, after all, a friend to all animals.  A small ceremony to bless them had just concluded shortly before our arrival, which coincided with the Feast of Saint Anthony being celebrated by the friars.

Photo: Chronica Domus

Also unbeknownst to me when I suggested we hot foot it to lunch, was that our impromptu visit coincided with the annual North Beach Festival.  That explained why the place was positively humming with masses of locals and tourists alike.

People, people, everywhere!

Oh, and the Transamerica Pyramid rising from the foot of Columbus Avenue

Photo: Chronica Domus

Food and beverage stands were set up along the length of several blocks of the neighborhood, together with small stages that would showcase a variety of live entertainment. Every restaurant and café was seemingly packed to the rafters.

Are we ever going to find a place to eat?

Photo: Chronica Domus

Sidewalk tables were occupied as well, with diners enjoying both the hubbub and crystalline blue skies. There would be no summer fog to dampen anyone's spirits this day.

Ah, finally, a table at Rose Pistola awaits us

Photo: Chronica Domus

We sought sustenance and sanctuary in the soothing atmosphere of Rose Pistola, which was, thank goodness, situated away from the melee of festival attendees.  The food here is simply marvelous. Trattoria-like in its simplicity, fresh, and impeccably prepared.  In a word delizioso!

Too full for dessert (at least I was), we waddled across the road to Mara's Italian bakery where we stocked up on some pastries, Italian style, for later.

One could easily be forgiven for mistaking this scene for so many like it in Italy

Photo: Chronica Domus

The selection of sweet treats on offer at Mara's was almost overwhelming.  Cannoli, biscotti, torrone... the delectable list goes on and on.

A much needed walk was in order to jolt us out of our postprandial torpor.  Down the road and around Washington Square we went, passing even more Italian bakeries, if you can believe it, until we found Saints Peter and Paul church.

 The twin spires rise 191 feet into the sky (notice how diminutive the substantial Victorian house appears by comparison)

Photo: Chronica Domus

Once inside, we toured the impressive space, which boasts an altar made of snow-white Carrara marble and a copy of Michelangelo's sculpture Pieta.

Photo: Chronica Domus

Now that we've had a chance to play tourist, it was time to hop into the motor car and head home.

Up, up into the sky!
A typical view of what one sees when traveling along the famously steep roads of San Francisco 

(better be sure the breaks and clutch are in good order)

Photo: Chronica Domus

Ah, finally home, and look what we brought with us to enjoy later in the day with coffee.

These Sfogliatelle pastries are almost too good-looking to eat... almost!

Photo: Chronica Domus

I do hope you enjoyed tagging along with us on our impromptu visit to North Beach. If you too are San Francisco bound in the future, do please plan on visiting this vibrant neighborhood for a taste of old San Francisco.  Perhaps not on a busy festival weekend though.