Wednesday, January 13, 2016

A Pre-Christmas Saturday Gallivant Around London

Chronica Domus
A pretty row of  painted stuccoed Georgian terrace houses approaching the antiques
market on Portobello Road
Photo: Chronica Domus


Ah, London, I have missed thee!  It has been far too long - three years - since I have had the opportunity to travel to my birth city and was itching to visit many of my old haunts.  My family and I arrived late on Thursday evening and spent most of Friday recovering from our transatlantic jaunt.

Whenever I find myself in this great city on any given Saturday, you can be assured of one thing.  I will have inevitably arisen bright and early to make my way to the epicenter of the London-based antiques world, Portobello Road Market.

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A giant teapot sign announces the entry to the Antique 101 Arcade
Photo: Chronica Domus


Over the years that I have frequented this lively market, I have witnessed a gradual decline in the number of businesses that trade in antiques along the Portobello Road and Westbourne Grove. Sadly, several modern clothing establishments have been allowed to encroach into former antiques territory. Despite this, I am pleased to report that there is still plenty to excite and delight this particular shopper.

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A rare set of six aquatints of Mr. John Liston, an English comedian, circa 1826
Photo: Chronica Domus


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This shop was so crammed with antique ceramics that it was hard to maneuver through the towering stacks without fear of breakage
Photo: Chronica Domus


What makes the market so very special, aside from the treasures for sale at the numerous shops, warrens of arcades, and street stalls, is the colorful characters selling their wares.  Some of these dealers, whom I've had the pleasure of chatting to and buying from in past years, are very passionate and knowledgeable about their goods, and are all-round fascinating and interesting people to talk with.  Take for example, Mr. Peter Adams.

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The delightful Mr. Peter Adams who might want to consider additional employment during the month of December playing Father Christmas
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mr. Adams, as I discovered, is the owner of the largest collection of antique and vintage marmalade pots in the world.  It was only through our chat on this particular visit that I learned of this extraordinary claim.  Mr. Adams, a dealer at the market for almost fifty years, relayed the story to my husband and I of reading an article in a British magazine that featured a collector who had amassed about sixty or so stoneware marmalade pots.  The publication had declared the collection the largest in the world. In typical nonplussed fashion, Mr. Adams looked about his residence and began counting his own pots. He stopped counting when he reached four hundred and fifty.

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A smattering of the many stoneware marmalade jars for sale at Mr. Adams' stall
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mr. Adams could talk one's head off with delightful anecdotes and stories of the various items he sells, including some incredible examples of early green glass gin bottles that he described as possessing a coffin shape.  I am now kicking myself for not purchasing one of them.  At the end of our visit, we left with a handful of ceramic bottles and ink pots to add to those already at home upon the Morandiesque hanging wall shelf.  

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Photo: Chronica Domus


As we worked our way through the crowds of shoppers, we darted in and out of the various passages and warrens of little arcades chock full of unusual and unique goodies.  What might this be?

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An extraordinary example of an apprentice piece to show carving and blade making skills
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Photo: Chronica Domus


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A beautiful Regency teacup depicting a colored Adam Buck bat print similar to one in my own collection
Photo: Chronica Domus


Headed in the direction of Westbourne Grove, I was on a mission to get to my favorite shop in the world, David Glick Glass.

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The unassuming, almost covert, shopfront of Mr. David Glick's glass shop, formerly an old dairy
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mr. Glick has the most extensive collection of late-eighteenth and early-nineteenth century table glassware that I have ever encountered, and all of it is for sale.  His collection could easily rival that on display at the Victoria and Albert museum.  Even the great style maker William Yeoward, who makes some of the best antique-inspired glassware on the market today, would frequently visit Mr. Glick's shop to seek inspiration for his glass range back in the company's early days.  

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An impressive collection of early nineteenth century decanters lined up in the window
Photo: Chronica Domus


I have had the particular pleasure of shopping at Mr. Glick's glass emporium over many years.  I always get myself into trouble here, and never leave empty handed. Mr. Glick runs his business the old-fashioned way.  That is to say, he does not have a web presence.  All of  his sales are conducted through his jewel-box sized shop each Saturday, the only day he opens for business. Mr. Glick occupies the rest of his week unearthing the plethora of goodies he sells.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


It is always such fun to chat with the affable and extremely knowledgeable Mr. Glick and on the morning we visited, he was doing brisk pre-Christmas business.  Every shopper I saw made a purchase.  One particular fellow we talked with had just purchased two English Regency champagne flutes as a Christmas present for a very lucky recipient. Oh, how I wished to be on that gentleman's Christmas list!  

Of course, I never quite know what I will find on display in the gleaming cabinets of this crystal palace.  Today was no exception.  Both my husband and I were enticed into purchasing four large English Regency rummers of the same slice-cut design found on much of our other period glassware. I almost fainted when I saw them.  As you can imagine, the world is not exactly brimming with domestic glass items that were made two centuries earlier, and which have likely seen more than their fair share of merry making.  It is a wonder they had not met their death at the clumsy hands of some young dandy toasting his good fortunes at either a gaming or dining table.

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I cannot wait to fill these four beauties with tasty libations at our next dinner party
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Mr. David Glick happily wraps up our Regency rummers for safe transit across the globe
Photo: Chronica Domus


Dizzy with excitement from our finds, a Christmas present to each other, my husband and I looked around the market a little longer until rumbling stomachs dictated our next move.

Into the depths of the nearest underground station we hopped - truly the quickest way around London - and out we emerged at St. James', one of our favorite areas of central London.  We headed directly to Rowley's Restaurant a small and elegant eatery which serves mainly traditional British dishes.  The restaurant is located on Jermyn Street, a few minutes walk from the Piccadilly tube station.

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A late lunch at Rowley's always hits the spot
Photo: Chronica Domus


Rowley's is housed in the same building that the former Wall's Meat Company occupied back in 1834, with well-preserved interiors of tile, mirror, and wood.

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The cozy interior of Rowley's which was buzzing with hungry patrons during our visit - I waited for a clear view to snap this image
Photo: Chronica Domus


After a round of much needed liquid sustenance in the form of two perfectly made gee and tees, my husband heartily tucked into one of the restaurant's house specialties, Yorkshire chicken.  This was served tableside on a small silver burner and accompanied by Rowley's famous Roquefort butter sauce and crispy fries chips.  I opted for a great British favorite, battered cod fillet and fries chips, together with dollops of mushy peas, a favorite nursery food that has somehow managed to work its way into the annals of "great" British foods.  If you were to poll adult Brits, I suspect their fondness for this mushy vegetable has more to do with nostalgia than a particularly strong liking for the stuff. A refreshing tangerine orange posset and cups of steaming hot coffee rounded off a most agreeable late afternoon luncheon.

Stretching our legs along Jermyn Street, we walked past many venerable retail establishments.  The street is known primarily as a center for men's clothiers, but our favorite cheesemonger, in business since 1797, also happens to be located there.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


The last time I was in London for Christmas I made the mistake of popping into Paxton & Whitfield on Christmas Eve, along with half of London's turophiles it seemed. The queue to purchase one's Christmas day cheeses began outside the shopfront, continued down into the narrow building until it snaked around the lower back room, went back up the main shop floor until, finally, it reached the front till.

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The deliciously pungent interior of Paxton & Whitfield
Photo: Chronica Domus


I was not about to repeat that mistake so took the opportunity of purchasing our Christmas day Stilton, which I refer to as "The King of Cheeses" (no disrespect meant towards Italians and their Parmesan), there and then.

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Glorious wheels of flavorful Stilton, one of which went into our shopping basket
Photo: Chronica Domus


If you have yet to sample this cheese, I highly encourage you to seek out a nibble, pronto.  An exceptional crumbly Stilton is both creamy and salty, but not overly reliant on saltiness to give it its distinctive flavor.  Of course, the blue veining is another characteristic that imparts the cheese with its robust tang.  This is not a cheese for wimps.

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St. James' Church Piccadilly
Photo: Chronica Domus


After a busy day enjoying the spoils of London, we walked into an oasis of calm upon entering St. James' Church.  Designed and built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1684, the church is home to both wood and stone carvings by Britain's most notable carver, Grinling Gibbons.  Mr. Gibbons' work can also be seen in St. Paul's Cathedral and Hampton Court, among other places.

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A view of the altar showing the intricate Grinling Gibbons limewood carvings
Photo: Chronica Domus


To our very good fortune, we were just in time to witness a concert rehearsal of Handel's Messiah performed by the Joyful Company of Singers along with the Brandenburg Sinfonia.  It was fascinating to watch the conductor, Mr. Peter Broadbent, direct the choir and musicians until their voices and instruments filled the church with heavenly music.  It bought tears of joy to my eyes. What an absolute privilege it was to sit in the old wooden pews absorbing every ethereal note of music and the great collective voice which filled this beautiful church.

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Mr. Peter Broadbent conducting the choir and orchestra during rehearsals of
Handel's Messiah
Photo: Chronica Domus


Next: Coffee with a London-based blogger and a visit to one of Britain's oldest family run weather-driven retail establishments.

 Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

24 comments:

  1. Taking notes: I haven't been to London (ever!) but plan on a trip in the next year or two.

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    1. Oh, you are in for a treat whenever you show up in London, no matter the season. Always something special to see.

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  2. Hello CD, I can't decide whether I most envy you on account of the architecture, the food, or the antiques. On a mini treasure hunt through your photos, I spotted many items I would be interested in, not to mention the fun and education of seeing these collections together.

    I could almost taste the cheeses in that shop--Taiwan is well-endowed culinary-wise, but still not the place to go for dairy foods! Also, were I in England in December, I would spend much time searching out Britain's outstanding winter apples and pears.
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim,

      I saw rather a lot of good architecture in London, something I relish viewing whenever I return to that great city. I shall be writing about some of it in upcoming posts.

      As for all of the treasures I featured in these photographs, I'd be curious to learn which you would have taken home with you. Do please come back and spill the beans!

      If you ever make it out to London, a visit to Paxton & Whitfield is a must, especially as you are so fond of cheese. The smell upon walking into that tiny shop is quite something I can tell you, to say nothing of the tasty selection of cheeses on offer. Alas, I did not get to sample any apples or pears on this particular trip because I spent most of my time gorging on bowls of sweet and juicy tangerines, that is whenever I wasn't stuffing myself silly with mince pies. Thank goodness those are not year-round treats!

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  3. Loved this post, thank you for taking us with you on this wonderful tour of your favourite shops in London, and what an end to your day! Perfect.
    I haven't been to London since I was 19 years old, it's high on our list because I haven't been there with MrBP... I'll be keeping this post in mind when we do go because I want to visit every spot.
    Now I want a bit of Stilton...
    XO

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    1. Hello Dani,

      So pleased you enjoyed this post, but I'm afraid the shopping aspect of my trip is far from over (more will be revealed in upcoming posts).

      I think you and your husband would surely enjoy a gallivant around this fair city with its amazing architecture, museums, parks, churches ... oh, I could just go on but I won't. You'll just have to return to read more about my adventures in town.

      Now, off you trot to fetch some delicious Stilton. I now have a hankering for it!

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  4. CD,
    I so enjoyed the tour. I have been to a couple of the places you've shared and remember my first taste of Stilton in 1985 when Mr. B took me to London for my first visit. What a perfectly enjoyable day you experienced.
    Can't wait for the next installment.
    Karen

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    1. Hello Karen,

      I'm pleased to learn that Stilton cheese had made such an impression on you so many years ago. I do hope you've continued to partake of its creamy pleasures. I'm a big fan!

      Happy also that you enjoyed reading about our mad dash about town. We certainly covered a lot that day.

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  5. What a wonderful trip. The architecture is divine. I always enjoy your take on things.

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    1. Hello Jen,

      It was indeed a wonderful trip, and I plan on covering some of the great architecture I saw in upcoming posts.

      I do hope you come back to read all about it soon.

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  6. Oh that's a marvellous tip - the David Glick emporium. Onmy list for the next visit, and remembering the Saturday only opening. I need more glass like a hole in the head, but there's no stopping an addict to this habit. My addiction would be sated enough by just seeing the wares on offer. Like you, we pack our days on visits to London, (more so than when I lived there, young an impecunious).

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    1. Hello columnist,

      As a fellow glass addict, at least when it comes to Regency-era glasswares, a trip to Mr. Glick's marvelous little shop will indeed provide you with much temptation and hopefully some new acquisitions. I don't think I've ever left empty-handed.

      When you do visit, make sure it is before noon as Mr. Glick shuts up shop in the early afternoon.

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  7. I love seeing how people spend time in places I know well BC it gives London a fresh eye, mind you we have similar interests so this looks a marvellous day! Funny my old neighbour gifted me s few bottles from that very place you got your beautiful gifts to each other. London does have its good points and I can easily forget them sometimes. It looks like you really loved being back snd enjoyed the best this town has to offer which serves as a good reminder for me to complain less hehe

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    1. Hello Naomi,

      I shall be sure to plan a day of gallivanting about town with you upon my next visit because, as you say, we have much in common when it comes to our shared interests. I know the day will provide enough joy and inspiration to last into the wee hours of the evening. At least, that is, if our delightful coffee rendezvous was an indication of how things will go.

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  8. Just a line because we've just this morning returned from Caro's week in hospital---scary and nerve-rending and enervating all at once. She's all pepped-up, regulated and sent on her still-slow way, but MUCH improved.

    You're the first of "MY" sites I've assayed a replay, so moire non, when I've had a long hot shower, an uninterrupted nap, and a bite not-from-a-machine.

    So glad you enjoyed your journey, and will enjoy catching up on your doings. (Would you believe I sleep every night with a gentleman closely approximating your Mr. Adams---genial smile, white beard and hair, and great delight in being greeted as "Santa.")
    r

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    1. Oh, dear, not such a good start to the year for poor Caro but happy to read your loving attentions will get her through.

      Having one's very own Santa at home must be quite a treat!

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  9. Armchair travel at its finest, CD.
    PS It's always pleasant to be in the neighbourhood of St James's, but why haven't I known of Rowley's Restaurant until now? That will need to be remedied one day, but in the meantime, can you supply more details of their Yorkshire Chicken?

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    1. The next time you happen to be strolling along Jermyn Street, do make a point of popping into Rowley's for lunch for I know you'll enjoy it as much as we do. I believe it has been around for about forty years.

      Now, about that Yorkshire Chicken. All my husband remembers about it is that it was delicious, served from a little silver chaffing dish, conveniently cut into medallions or thick slices, and served with a most delicious Roquefort butter sauce. Oh, and the chips kept a coming, which he took full advantage of.

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  10. How nice to see your haunts and suppliers in London. I haven't been that way in too You give me itchy feet!
    Thanks for wishing us well with the textile museum. It's got me pretty nervous because I can't say I'm confident in the powers that be!

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    1. Hello gésbi,

      Time to scratch that itch and get thee to London pronto! You are so very close and taking the train nowadays is a breeze.

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  11. Such fun! I can see a few of my old stomping grounds. I look forward to seeing more photos of your trip in due course.

    PS - I agree, Stilton is by far the best cheese. Just looking at the photos reminds me how strong the smell in P&W is. I can smell it coming out of the screen...

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    1. Hello Lord Cowell,

      Yes, fun it certainly was, and Stilton is indeed a cheese to be reckoned with. P&W's is particularly good, but that is no great surprise really, considering the place has been about so long.

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  12. Aaack! You make me want to go back to London this instant! And the 6 months I lived in London, after college, I used to go to Neal's Yard in Covent Garden. There I discovered Stilton, my favorite to this day:).

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    1. On my prior visit to London, I distinctly recall the crazy pre-Christmas cheese buying queue had also afflicted the little shop on Neal's Yard. The shop was so organized because we saw two queues; one for pre-order pick-up, another for the poor souls that shopped at the last minute so had to wait in the cold for hours on end. I suppose there's no stopping those cheese-loving Brits when they get an idea into their head.

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