Tuesday, November 10, 2015

Yes You Can!

Chronica Domus
The first homemade pumpkin pie of the season
Photo: Chronica Domus


When I bid adieu to England and moved to America in the early 1990's, I had no idea what pumpkin pie was.  I imagined it was a savory concoction akin to a plump pork pie.

England's famous pork pies

I soon learned that it was not a pie at all, but rather a tart. At least it was according to my cultural point of reference (a pie, as I understood it at the time, possessed a pastry top and bottom, a tart just a bottom).  I was also intrigued to discover that pumpkin tart pie was not at all savory as one might expect when eating squash.  In fact, the delectably sweet and custard-like filling was reminiscent of a childhood favorite dessert, the mysteriously named Gypsy Tart, dished out as part of one's school dinners.  Ah, what fond memories I have of woofing slices of that down the hatch!  I could have given Oliver Twist a run for his money I can assure you.

Gypsy Tart, possibly my fondest memory of school dinners 
and not too dissimilar in texture to pumpkin tart pie


My inaugural slice of velvety pumpkin tart pie was served to me at my mother-in-law's house during my very first Thanksgiving feast. My American husband explained that it was his favorite pie, and a staple at practically every Thanksgiving table in the country. It is what Christmas pudding is to a British Christmas.  He was certainly right on that score.  Now that I consider myself a seasoned pumpkin tart pie eater, I would go as far as declaring it the quintessential American pie, even more so than apple.  I know of no other country that features this particular pie flavoring as part of its national cuisine.

I soon added pumpkin tart pie to my baking repertoire and make at least two of them for our annual Thanksgiving dinner for waifs and strays.  Being a curious cook, and one that enjoys using fresh local ingredients and cooking from scratch, I was quite taken aback to discover that most recipes I stumbled across called for canned pumpkin. Well, I was having none of that I can tell you!  No, I was determined to make my very own filling, the old-fashioned way, just as it was done by the early eighteenth century New England cooks to celebrate their regional holiday.  I'll admit, that ridiculous notion lasted all but a few time-consuming and pointless attempts.  For, you see, fiddling about with rock-hard pumpkins, slimy and slippery orange flesh, and sharp kitchen knives is not a happy combination, or a worthwhile pursuit. At least it's not if you have this not so secret weapon at your disposal:

Chronica Domus
It's not known as "America's Favorite Pumpkin" for nothing
Photo: Chronica Domus


Yes, shockingly to me, here is a case where canned proves to be a better option than the rigmarole of making purée from scratch.  The contents are consistently smooth and firm (unlike my dismal soupy attempts), and most importantly they are flavorful. Why reinvent the wheel when you don't have to?  Best of all, a fail-safe recipe is thoughtfully provided right there on the label.

Now, if you too are tempted to make your own pumpkin tarts pies, and should you decide to use this recipe, I shall disclose upfront that I've tinkered with the spice proportions.  In my not-so-humble opinion, it makes quite an improvement in flavor to the final outcome.  I believe the amount of cinnamon called for in the Libby's recipe (1 teaspoon) completely overpowers the other spices so I reduce the quantity by half, and introduce freshly grated nutmeg (about 1/2 teaspoon) as a substitute. This infuses the filling with a pleasantly subtle aroma and flavor that is difficult to describe but must be tried. I also insist on using whole cloves that I crush with the aid of my trusty mortar and pestle.

Chronica Domus
There is something quite satisfying about bashing the living daylights out of one's spices, to say nothing of the aroma that fills the kitchen air
Photo: Chronica Domus


It is this combination and proportion of fresh spices that sets my tarts pies apart from the potpourri-smelling examples one so often encounters on supermarket shelves. At least that is what I've been told by those that have sampled them.  Of course, homemade pastry is a must and I strongly encourage you too to make your own. I have been using this recipe ever since I crossed the pond, and discovered it in Martha Stewart's Pies and Tarts cookbook, a copy of which was given to me by a friend who did not bake.  Incidentally, the pastry recipe also works well for savory filled pies too, as the amount of sugar called for is imperceptible.

Chronica Domus
Ready to pop into the hot oven
Photo: Chronica Domus


I do hope that you too will consider skipping the awful supermarket pretenders and instead make a few tarts pies for your Thanksgiving feast this year. If I can do it as a transplanted Brit, albeit with the help of Libby's, you can too.

Chronica Domus
With the addition of a little whipped cream, our pie was swiftly devoured as part 
of our Sunday dinner last weekend
Photo: Chronica Domus


Tell me, do you serve pumpkin pie to your family and friends on Thanksgiving day, or do you have another favorite that makes an appearance at your table?  And, for those of you that bake, do you opt for canned pumpkin purée or make your own?

 Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

40 comments:

  1. Hello CD, I was never much for pumpkin pie, but your version does look awfully tempting. I do love pumpkin bread, so that has become my own tradition, although my mother does occasionally bake the pies. Somewhere I read that the secret to homemade pumpkin or squash pulp is to dry it out slowly in a large frying pan.

    I am guessing the pies would be improved if you added a generous amount of chopped pecans (don't substitute walnuts!), although that would change the texture (in my case for the better). I have made pumpkin bread in Taiwan using that same canned pumpkin, but lately the price has been an absurd US$8 for a small can, so I have foregone this pleasure.
    --Jim

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    1. Oh, Jim, there I was thinking every single American loved pumpkin pie!

      Pumpkin bread sounds like a delicious treat but at $8 a can for the purée, it would have to be an annual treat. I'm sure you stock up on your visits back home though.

      I've never considered adding pecans to the pumpkin filling. I think it would change the smooth texture too much, which is one of the best things about pumpkin pie that I personally enjoy, aside from the flavor of course.

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  2. What a beautiful pie! In Canada, we've adopted the American version for our Thanksgiving so it's a standard here too.

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    1. Hello Jen,

      Thank you. I'd be curious to learn what other foods you serve at Thanksgiving in Canada. I think it is my favorite holiday (aside from Christmas) and one that I've adopted wholeheartedly since moving here from England.

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  3. Hello! I have been enjoying your musings for the better part of a year and am FINALLY compelled to comment. I love, love, love pumpkin pie - and it certainly wouldn't be a Thanksgiving feast without.

    I've found a new reason to love pumpkin pie - it is a perfect way to involve my pre-school daughter in baking. She loves helping in the kitchen and I've discovered that the enthusiasm and energy of little ones is the best way to make your own puree.

    We bake the pumpkin whole and cut it up afterwards (all the better to avoid tricky knife situations with raw pumpkins). After scraping the pulp into a bowl, I hand my little one a potato masher and she goes to town! A few minutes later, perfectly prepped pumpkin puree (which she loves saying). It may be a touch stringy, but I've never found that to be a problem in the finished product.

    I don't know why I never thought of this before, but I'm going to take your suggestion to grind up our own spices with mortar and pestle. Yet another step that my little sous chef will enjoy.

    A very Happy Thanksgiving to you, CD!

    --Rachelle

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    1. Hello Rachelle, and welcome! I'm pleased you've been enjoying the blog and left a comment here today, thank you.

      How clever of you to employ the enthusiasm that is bundled up in an enthusiastic pre-schooler for kitchen duty. I recall my own little one wanting to help in the kitchen at that age too. Now she enjoys baking every couple of weeks. How do you get your perfectly prepped pumpkin purée to be dry enough to bake with? That was my trouble when I gave it a couple of shots. Jim, who commented above, suggested drying it out slowly in a pan, which sounds like an excellent idea.

      I'm pleased to have encouraged you to dig out your mortar and pestle. There is a world of difference in flavor when pulverizing whole cloves and cinnamon sticks. The same goes for nutmeg, but grated, of course.

      Have a wonderful Thanksgiving yourself, and please do come back and join in on the fun of the comments section.

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  4. What a lovely history of Pumpkin Pie experience! Yours is certainly greater than mine, despite my many more decades of Thanksgivings, for I think I've made perhaps four in my life. Which would have been two, for the urge struck twice to try it, but the recipe makes TWO, and so there were.

    I think it's the lifelong Sweet Potato Pie thing, from all that Southern cooking experience---those are milder and sweeter and just what we're used to, and so it would be like making an apple and a pear, just alike, and setting them down, sort of.

    So all of us "of the house" are accustomed to Sweet Potato, and only our DDIL who was raised here in the Heartland really prefers pumpkin, but only her GiGi's recipe, which is, she warns, so redolent of so many heavy spices that it would be way too much for a novice---dark as chocolate and way sharp, and maybe she'll make one some day so we can try it..

    Yours is a simply glorious specimen, puffed and golden and prinked splendidly into perfect scallops---I'd love to master that technique, but though I can bake any cake known to mankind, I've just never "had the hand" for piecrust.

    But how on earth do you get cloves smashed fine enough? Do you sift them at the last?

    Says rachel, who bit one by accident in one of Mammaw's Sweet Pickled Peaches, and hasn't been able to face even the smell of Dentyne since.

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    1. Hello racheld,

      Your final sentence made me laugh so much, thank you! Isn't it funny how we are put off by certain foods, in your case Dentyne, if we've had a bad experience. I'm the same way with beetroot, but I'll leave that for another day. Crushed cloves, however, are a world away from Dentyne and quite subtle when cooked. No need for sifting, really.

      I've never had the pleasure of eating a sweet potato pie and now, of course, you've piqued my curiosity. Growing up in England the only pies/tarts I ever encountered were stuffed with fruits and berries. Americans are much more experimental with their pie fillings employing the likes of vegetables and squashes. Carrot cake, zucchini (or courgette as we called it), sweet potato, pumpkin, all of these would have been looked upon suspiciously over the pond.at one time.

      I admire your cake baking abilities, which I find far more difficult than throwing a pie together. I used to take pottery classes at school so the act of shaping a pastry shell comes quite naturally to me.

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  5. I love Thanksgiving, too. Here in Pennsylvania, we do a regional pie called pumpkin custard pie, with the canned pumpkin, eggs, milk, sugar, baked in a pie crust with cinnamon sprinkled on top of the pumpkin.

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    1. Hello Megs,

      I'd love to learn more of your regional pumpkin pie recipe. What type of milk do you use? It sounds similar to the Libby's one I make, except for the spices. Cinnamon sprinkled on top, now there's something new!

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  6. Funny about pies. I do think the metaphor as American as pie is apt. My brother makes pumpkin pie BC he loves it and is hard to get here. You have to go to partridges to get the pumpkin filling as it's just done a supermarket item here still. I like pecan and southern fruit pies like peach and cherry but oddly I like the concept more than many I ate BC I found a lot of gloop to bind the fruit together do I do prefer a plump tart. Do you read stephen Andrew's blog? You should read it BC he's very funny and his latest post is about pies. He's on my blogroll if you need link.

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    1. Hello Naomi,

      Oh, I've always considered apple pie so very English so I still have a hard time with that metaphor. Good to know you can hunt down a can or two of pumpkin if you are as determined as your brother is to make his own pie (good for him!). I think pumpkin pie would be missed terribly by my family if we were to move to England. That, and Mexican food.

      Pecan pie is very cloying if done wrong. I first tried it in London of all places, which might have been my mistake. I'll look for one at a specialty baker and try a slice in your honor.

      I've yet to encounter Andrew's blog so thank you for the recommendation.

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  7. Beautifully and I am sure tastefully done!! The pie of the season!

    xoxo
    Karena
    The Arts by Karena
    Artist Sandra Goroff

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    1. Hello Karena Albert,

      Thank you, and yes, it was rather scrumptious and did not last long. Pumpkin is indeed the pie of the season.

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  8. CD,
    It wouldn't be thanksgiving without pumpkin pie. I love Martha's book of pies and tarts and use a pie crust from her book as well. I also found a slightly tweaked recipe for the pie filling in the L.A. Times food section years ago that called for a bit of brown sugar along with an adjusted amount of white sugar, we love it.
    Your crust looks like a pie from a magazine cover. Well done.
    Karen

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    1. Hello Karen,

      Thanks for the compliment on the pie crust. I think the secret is to chill it in the fridge before crimping it. That way the "crimps" stay put!

      I've never considered adding brown sugar to the pie filling so I'll do some research on the L.A. Times' site and see if I can track down the recipe, thank you.

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  9. Though decidedly un-patriotic of me, I have never quite seen the point of pumpkin pies, but then again, nor have I ever understood the fuss about roasted turkey, since the labour involved is often disproportionate to the end result.

    That said, I have savoured every word of this particular post for the pleasure to be found in its presentation.

    CD, you are a very fine writer, and your presence in Blog Land has enriched the terrain.

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    1. Hello Toby Worthington,

      I am charmed beyond words at your generous praise of my humble blog and its amateurish musings, thank you. One does so aspire to be at the very least coherent when penning one's scribbles, and entertaining and informative at best.

      Now, getting back to the serious business of pumpkin tart, oops I mean pie, I'd be interested to learn what you eat in terms of pie on Thanksgiving day, if you eat any at all. Do please spill the beans. I can quite understand that pumpkin may not be to everyone's tastes (same goes for Christmas pudding, which most Americans would balk at - something to do with all those dried up fruits I've been informed).

      I do not believe for a moment that forgoing turkey and pumpkin pie make one less patriotic, but if you do decide on cooking a turkey at some point in the future, do consider the brined method which eliminates the inherent dryness of the bird. But, then again, that is yet a further step in the already laborious task of preparing it, as you've noticed.

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    2. Thanks for the thoughtful reply, CD!
      Since you've asked, it seems to me that the richness of Thanksgiving dinner calls for a pie which has got a semblance of freshness, something tart (no pun intended) such as Key Lime or Lemon. I will admit that guests are somewhat bewildered by this culinary aberration, yet no one leaves the table grumbling!

      As for the bird itself, last year with only 5 at table I presented a beautiful, tender, succulent roast chicken along with all or most of the trimmings associated with the traditional feast. In other words, no nervous breakdowns over whether a 20 lb turkey is fully cooked, overcooked, or undercooked...if you know what I mean.

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    3. Oh, I do know what you mean. Calculating how much turkey one's guests might consume requires a mathematical degree! Whichever formula used, invariably there will be leftovers to feed a small village. For days! Chicken, now that's an idea, thank you.

      Key Lime or lemon, yes, a man after my own heart! Two of my very favorite flavors. Always refreshing and light. I confess, I've yet to attempt making a key lime pie (note to self!), but I do frequently make lemon curd tarts and use the lemons from my tree which seem to grow year round on "Old Faithful", the name we've bestowed upon our dear lemon factory of a tree.

      Thank you for your return visit here today and adding to the dialogue, a most rewarding aspect of blogging.

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  10. I had every intention of making it, every intention. Even bought the Libby's tins, which are still sitting pretty in a draw. Maybe I should just do it at Christmas... Because why not? :)

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    1. Yes, why not at Christmas. The first Christmas I returned to London since moving to California I took a tin of the stuff with me to make a pumpkin pie not only because I wanted my husband to have it on Christmas day (which is what his own American family like to eat on the day), but because I wanted my own English family to try it. I'm happy to tell you they loved it. Funny, but it took my husband several years to come around to the delights of Christmas pudding.


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  11. i"ve had a peek at your beloved Gypsy Tart---what a child's delight---all that milk and sugar! Whoever taught first period after lunch must have had to have nerves of steel and cotton in her ears.

    It looks like a great round brownie, almost, with that dark chocolaty colour, presumably from the muscovado, and must have a long, low cooking time to get that firm texture, with no eggs or flour. I have five clear cannisters lined up on my glorious new white counter (well, not this minute, for everything's all higgledy-piggledy again for the past two weeks---an electrical problem discovered AFTER all the new cabs were firmly attached to walls, which meant two of the had to come back down, the counters be stripped to the echoes AGAIN, and everything is absolutely thrown about like a tornado).

    I love all the colours of the sugars marching down the line, from the palest to the deep browns of the Demerara (all with a vanilla bean submerged). Now a reason to go seek out muscovadoto add to the umber rainbow.

    We will, however, be making Plum Pudding again this year, when four of the GRANDS arrive on 21st for week of Thanksgiving---not quite so much time for it to season and rest, but we want everybody to have a stir this year.

    Do say you're going to make that Gypsy Tart and share a recipe?

    r

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    1. Hello racheld,

      Many years ago, I made Gypsy Tart, but with Demerara sugar, which is how I remember it being made, so as you have some on hand, I think you ought to follow the recipe in the link I provided (beneath the photo of the Gypsy Tart), and come back and tell me if you liked it. You'll have to translate the quantities to US measurements. Perhaps it will be a little too cloying for adult tastes, but I thought Gypsy Tart was the bees knees as a child.

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  12. CD, Pumpkin pie is my favorite pie after lemon meringue to the point that if I hear that it is not being served where I'm going, I'll bring one! Now I make it way before Thanksgiving so I can fully enjoy it. My mother thinks I'm nuts but it never tastes the same after a full meal like that..

    A few years ago I went through the rigamarole of making the puree from scratch from a jarsdale pumpkin no less. they are the blue ones on the outside. I was convinced there was a shortage of puree in the market and i'D BETTER MAKE MY OWN. It is a rumor that goes around periodically to get you to buy pumpkins. This year's culprit was the rain. Anyway, I came to the same conclusion as you. It wasn't worth the effort and did not even come close to the fake thing which was much better.

    I see my friend Toby has finally discovered your blog. You two will be great friends. I can't and can believe he has never had a pumpkin pie!

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    1. BTW your pie looks beautiful. Look at the rise! looks even better than mine, great job!

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    2. Hello lindaraxa,

      Well, now that I know you too have come to the conclusion that some things are better from a can, I don't feel so terribly naughty for cutting corners, thank you.

      Like you, pumpkin pie making in advance of the big day has become the norm for the month of November. My family adore it, and I think you are right, it tastes much better as a stand-alone piece of pie, with a cup of coffee or tea, than directly after such a heavy Thanksgiving meal. Perhaps Mr. Worthington is on to something there.

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    3. Oh, and thank you for your generous praise of my pie making skills. The only thing I can add is that I spent years messing about with clay in pottery class at school so something must have stuck.

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  13. A very interesting post. The Gypsy Tart sounds a little bit like a dulce de leche flavor.

    Your pumpkin pie looks wonderful and the crust is beautiful. My mother always did her pumpkin pies with nutmeg, as you have described doing above, and made the crusts herself. Whipped cream is always the perfect companion.

    I plan to "beat the system" this year and get a couple good premade crusts, and I'll do the Libby's filling.

    My sister always makes Cake Man Raven's southern red velet cake for Thanksgiving and Christmas. It is fantastic, but I've never tried to do it myself:

    http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/southern-red-velvet-cake-recipe.html

    Of course another holiday favorite in our casa is pecan pie.

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    1. Hello Diogenes,

      Ah, it appears that your mother has discovered that nutmeg makes pumpkin pie taste so much nicer than a heavy hand let loose on the cinnamon shaker. When you too make your pies this year, do try the proportions of spices I recommend and let me know what you think.

      Is red velvet cake a fairly new thing as I do not recall having heard of it when I first moved to these shores, but now it has become a firm favorite for many people, especially around Christmas?

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    2. Dear CD, I think it has been a southern US favorite for some time, but has become increasingly popular in the last decade. I found a nice New York Times article on the rise in popularity of red velvet:

      http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/14/dining/red-velvet-cake-from-gimmick-to-american-classic.html?_r=0

      Apparently the American Cupcake bar in San Francsico even offers chicken soaked in red velvet batter, then deep fried. Hmmm...I think I'll stick to the basic cake. ;-)

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    3. Thank you, Diogenes, for explaining the rise in popularity of red velvet cake. However, using it as batter, well, no thank you!

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  14. Dear CD,
    I have served pumpkin pie at past holiday feasts, but my personal preference leans toward pecan and apple pie. This time, I will bake a Fishmarket Apple Pie which has sour cream mixed in with the apples and a struesel topping. Another favorite is sticky toffee pudding cake served with cream or vanilla ice cream. It has many of the warm spices so popular at this time of year.
    Happy Thanksgiving.
    KL Gaylin

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    1. Hello KL Gaylin,

      I've not sampled pecan pie for decades, but I think I shall make a point in doing so soon, for I've forgotten what it tastes like!

      I adore apple pie too and make several during the autumn and winter months. I wrote about apple pie making last year after we picked our apples from the garden. This year's harvest was much smaller, due to the drought.

      I'm not familiar with Fishmarket Apple Pie but will investigate further, thank you for sour cream sounds very unusual to be mixed in with apples. Sounds delish!

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  15. I have usually made pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving only because my mother likes them. The rest of my family prefers apple pie (we pick our own apples at an orchard) and key lime pie (refreshing after a heavy meal). However, I do love pumpkin bread and for several years went to the trouble of baking pumpkins to make my own puree. I was convinced that it was better than the canned. Ultimately, it was a lot of work and the canned is perfectly fine. Thank you for your tips concerning adjusting the spices - I'll have to try that next time.

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    1. Hello slf,

      Yes, apple pie is delish and can well understand its inclusion in your Thanksgiving feast. Although pumpkin pie is a standard at our table, I also bake an apple pie for those that enjoy it, and sometimes even a pumpkin cheesecake.

      I admire your determination to make puree from scratch.

      Do let me know how you get on with the adjusted spices suggestion when you make your pie. I'd be curious to hear what you think about it.

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  16. Confession: gimme an apple pie, a pecan pie, gingerbread, anything but pumpkin;). That said, I love your photos!

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    1. Oh, you are funny! I too adore apple pie but I'm happy to have discovered pumpkin through my adopted country. And, thank you, glad you enjoyed the photos.

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  17. I've not been able to wrap my head around pumpkin pie. I've tried it a couple of times, but it somehow seems very wrong that it tastes so sweet. It took me long enough to appreciate roast pumpkin, cooked in the pan with the meat and served with plenty of seasoning and gravy. I'm not sure I will ever learn to appreciate the desert version. Still, I appreciate for many it is a festive treat and as long anticipated as Christmas fruit mince pies are for me.

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    1. Hello Lord Cowell,

      I fully understand what you mean by "too sweet". One would think a squash is more akin to a vegetable which should be savory, not sweet. However, I adore it, especially a slice that has been chilled a little, with the accompanying dollops of whipped cream.

      Oh, and I cannot wait for the mince pies to arrive on the scene. Not long now.

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