Monday, May 11, 2015

To Market, To Market

Chronica Domus
My hefty old-fashioned market basket filled to the brim with our household's weekly fresh produce sourced from the farmers' market
Photo: Chronica Domus


If you wish to find me bright and early on any given Saturday, I am more than likely trolling the stalls of one of the excellent farmers' markets of our fair city.  Unlike the old nursery rhyme, however, I will not be going to market to procure a pig.  Instead, I happily stock up on my household's weekly fruits, vegetables, bakery goods, and assorted tasty comestibles.  This is a most agreeable pursuit given that the food over which our local farmers have labored hard to bring to market is among the freshest and tastiest to be found anywhere in the country.  Not only that, it is all so handsomely and tastefully displayed. If you are anything like me, it can all become a little problematic. This is because the vast array of goodies on offer all looks to be so terribly enticing. It really is a chore to resist over-purchasing.  Perhaps I should have titled this post "This Little Piggy Goes To Market".

I'd like to take you on a tour of my favorite market, found at The Ferry Plaza, which operates year round each Saturday morning, and to a lesser extent on Tuesdays and Thursdays, come rain or shine.

Chronica Domus
Approaching the The Ferry Building, home of the city's swankiest farmers' market
Photo: Chronica Domus


Located along San Francisco's picturesque waterfront by the historic Ferry Building (just look for the landmark clock tower at the bottom of Market Street and you've arrived), the area is abuzz with activity by 9 a.m.  This is a popular spot for the city's many joggers who jostle with shoppers along The Embarcadero making their way to the market.  Some of the first to arrive are the local restaurant chefs.  They haul their fresh bounty away on carts at an hour I could not even contemplate rolling out of bed on a weekend morning.  No matter, as in this case the early bird does not necessarily catch the worm.  There is still an abundance of vegetables, fruits, dried goods, prepared foods, dairy, meat, and fish to fill one's baskets to overflowing when my good friend Jeannette and I make our appearance by 10 o'clock.

The farmers set up their stands along both the street side and the bay side of the Ferry Building.  As we approach the first of these stands, Jeannette and I are stopped in our tracks by this visually stimulating array of root vegetables.  We decide to buy several bunches of carrots and radishes between us.

Chronica Domus
A festive display of root vegetables
Photo: Chronica Domus


Next, we walk by a flower vendor and "ooh" and "ahh" at the tulips amassed in buckets.  Somehow, we manage to resist their siren call and continue on our mission, hot-footing it to the bakery inside.

Chronica Domus
Spring blooms in all their glory
Photo: Chronica Domus


The Ferry Building is a foodie's paradise and is spilling over with shop upon shop of the finest goods the area's food purveyors have to offer.  There are butchers, ice cream makers, a cheese shop, confectioners, patisseries and bakeries, fishmongers, olive oil vendors, and even a specialist mushroom seller, among other things.  If you are in need of refreshment or sustenance, you'll be spoilt for choice with the selection of cafés and restaurants to indulge your taste buds.

Once inside the building, Jeannette and I make a beeline for Acme Bakery.  We pick up our freshly baked loaves of spelt bread (available only on Saturdays), and our walnut levain loaves.  Acme Bakery makes some of the best bread in the city and suppies several of the better restaurants in town with their tasty goods.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Take your pick - they are all scrumptious!
Photo: Chronica domus


The Ferry Building itself is a beautiful structure made airy by the light entering from above.  It has gone through an extensive rejuvenation since the ungainly elevated freeway that partially spanned the waterfront was demolished following the earthquake of 1989.  Today, the building has evolved into a food hall and renovated so that many of the original features, such as the ironwork seen in the photograph below, are visible.

Chronica Domus
Looking up within within The Ferry Building
Photo: Chronica Domus


One of my favorite shops to peruse is Far West Fungi, a specialist seller of mushrooms. It is a beautiful emporium of mycology with fun displays set up to educate hapless shoppers like myself who've not a clue how these woodsy treasures are grown and harvested.

Chronica Domus
A beautiful and educational display for mushroom lovers to enjoy
Photo: Chronica Domus


Fantastical mushrooms in varied shapes, sizes, and colors entice the home cook into filling her brown paper bags with toothsome Morels, Porcinis, and Black Trumpets.

Chronica Domus
Huge Porcini mushrooms begging to be taken home and cooked
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A painterly palette of mushrooms
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Back outside, we are greeted by a familiar spring-time Bay Area sight, Rapeseed, or yellow mustard flowers as they are commonly called.  These grow with abandon in the fields of wine country and one clever seller thought it a good idea to bring bowls full of it to the townies. Don't you think they look jolly?

Chronica Domus
Rapeseed flowers, a familiar sight in the countryside during spring
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mother taught me that eating one's greens is good for the body so, naturally, I never fail to pick up bunches of rainbow chard, kale, and other seasonal greens to pop into my wicker basket.  There is a strong emphasis at The Ferry Plaza market on organic and pesticide-free produce, and these leafy greens fit that bill.  I spied some perfect little heads of cauliflower so a pair of those came home with me as well.  Sinful Cauliflower Cheese would be playing a role in our Sunday luncheon no doubt.

Chronica Domus
A mountain of leafy greens to make mother happy
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
The season's first artichokes
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Savory, sorrel, and garlic chives - fresh herbs not commonly seen outside of such an extensive farmers' market
Photo: Chronica Domus


The city's swankiest market not only attracts the finest produce around, but it is also a fun place to people watch.  Locals and tourists alike wander the stalls, buying whatever looks tempting, or just sitting by the water's edge feasting upon portable treats or sipping from their coffee cups, taking in the sights and sounds of the bustling market. One stylish shopper hauled her loot away in a smart wicker basket on wheels. It rather reminded me of those little old ladies from my youth that utilized similar contraptions for their daily round of the greengrocer, butcher, and baker.

Chronica Domus
A stylish way to haul one's goods home from the market
Photo: Chronica Domus


I needed some eggs so I brought a colorful dozen of these home with me.  How could I have resisted, could you?

Chronica Domus
Beautifully colored eggs in shades of green and blue laid by Araucana chickens
Photo: Chronica Domus


The eggs are not only visually appealing on the outside, but once cracked, a brilliant orange yolk reveals itself, quite unrelated to the anemic yellow of supermarket purchased eggs.  Their decadently rich flavor is superior too.  Farm fresh eggs truly are one of life's little luxuries and well worth the extra expense of supporting our local farmers. The vendor with which I had spoken had traveled through the wee hours of the morning to set up his stand in time for the day's market.

Finally, Jeannette and I had lunch on our minds so we swung by The Pasta Shop's stand and picked up one of their delicious fresh pasta concoctions.  My daughter adores the taste of their nettle flavored pappardelle, so into the basket went a tub, to be prepared quickly upon my arrival home, accompanied by some of the vegetables I had just purchased.

Chronica Domus
A selection of fresh pasta ready to be taken home
Photo: Chronica Domus


One needs to navigate the treacherous waters of the farmers' market very carefully if one is working up an appetite for an at-home luncheon later in the day.  You see, it is so very easy to feast upon the seemingly endless samples on offer at every turn around here.  The market is a minefield of taste explosions if one partakes in the generous sampling of dips, jams, spreads, breads, fruits, and raw vegetables.  As we were about to depart, Jeannette and I broke down and headed for the irresistible organic syrups, jams, and preserves on offer by June Taylor.  We became like bears around a honeypot, along with the gaggle of other shoppers, as we tried our favorite flavors.  As long-time readers of this blog well know, the last thing I need to bring home is another jar of marmalade but let me tell you, Jane's Meyer Lemon marmie is sublime.

Chronica Domus
Eeny, meeny, miny, moe ...  
Photo: Chronica Domus


With our baskets bursting with goodness, and our taste buds tickled, it was time to make our way home and plot our menus in order to make use of everything we had purchased during our foray at the market. We always leave The Ferry Plaza so full of satisfaction and gratitude, not only in that we have the great privilege of providing our families with nutritious and impeccably fresh locally grown produce and prepared foods, but also that we make a vital connection with the farmers and artisans that bring us their goods.  I'm pleased to be able to play a small part in supporting our hard-working farmers and food purveyors.  I think above all else, this is what truly makes this market so very special.

Chronica Domus
The Ferry Building's clock tower 
Photo: Chronica Domus


The next time you find yourself in San Francisco, please do make a point of visiting The Ferry Plaza farmers' market.  It truly is a gastronomic marvel and a wonderful place to while away a few hours and enjoy the sights and sounds of the city, discover something fresh for dinner, or to take home as a souvenir of our city, if you are here from afar.

Do you frequent a local farmers' market and if so, what are some favored food items that go home with you?

 Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

38 comments:

  1. Dear CD,

    How wonderful and how lucky you are to have access to such delectable goodies. We are similarly fortunate - so much so, I have essentially been 'banned' from accompanying my husband on the weekly shopping trip for fear of breaking the bank. (But I do manage to sneak in the occasional spree just the same - life's too short, don't you think?)

    I shall be sure to recommend my husband visit to your wonderful market next time he is in San Francisco.

    Spud.

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    1. Dearest Spud,

      I do indeed feel fortunate to have such an extensive and beautiful market from which to shop for fresh produce. I highly recommend your husband take time out of his busy schedule when next in town to drop by the Ferry Building (whether the market stalls are there or not), as there is still plenty to delight the gastronome within him.

      By the way, I've been thinking of you lately as I planted my first potatoes in your honor. We shall see how that little experiment materializes later in the year.

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    2. Gosh, CD, I'm chuffed beyond measure. I hope the potato gods look favourably on your experiment so that we may both delight in a bountiful harvest.

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    3. Why, thank you, Spud! A post shall of course be forthcoming if I manage to harvest anything resembling a potato.

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  2. I love a market, but sadly don't get to go terribly often now - Saturdays are taken up by children's sport commitments. I used to shop exclusively at the markets when we lived in Melbourne, as were so close. I used to walk there with my market trolley (the French Rolser brand are excellent - very sturdy), fill it to the brim and then drag it home again.
    Your produce does look very fresh and appealing, I'm sure you've enjoyed your market bounty immensely.

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    1. Hello Heidi,

      Without wishing to commandeer CD's blog, I can't help but comment that this Melburnian loves nothing more than going fresh food shopping with her trusty Rolser :)

      Spud.

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    2. Hello Heidi,

      Here in California it seems that many parents spend their entire weekends as part-time taxi drivers, ferrying their children to sporting activities. I admire your dedication, especially as you have multiple children, and I'm sure it is all quite exhausting on top of everything else you do to run a tight ship. Frankly, I am thankful that my sole progeny has absolutely no sporting gene to have inherited from either of her parents.

      Walking to your local farmers' market must have been an absolute treat when you lived in Melbourne. If my market was within walking distance, I too would have purchased a market trolley to haul my items home. Aside from the wicker one I featured in the photograph included in this posting, they are not very common here. One sees more straw bags, cotton totes, or wicker baskets at the market.

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    3. Oh, and Spud, please feel free to jump in on any of the conversations that ensue here at CD. It makes it more fun for both myself and my readers.

      Now I'm off to research what exactly these Rolser's look like as I was unaware of their existence before Heidi mentioned them.

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  3. My idea of Heaven... Everything just looks so beautiful, fresh and inspiring! x

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    1. Hello Natalia,

      Yes, it is indeed Heaven on earth to have access to such an abundance of produce, all grown locally, and all so beautifully fresh.

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  4. We always do a looking lap and then a buying lap!

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    1. Hello Meg,

      How funny you should mention a "looking lap". This is precisely what my friend Jeannette and I do at the beginning of each season as new produce comes to market. Once we've scouted our favorite vendors, we then change our strategy and just make a beeline directly to them thereafter. It is almost time for another "looking lap" as stone fruits will be here soon.

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  5. Thank you for sharing your wonderful photos of this Bay Area treasure. We always make a pilgrimage to the Ferry Plaza farmers' market whenever we visit San Francisco and marvel at the sheer abundance of goodies. When we lived in the Central Valley we drove to SF frequently. We'd pass through garlicky Gilroy. and buy berries in Watsonville. Has the drought impacted the prices of produce in CA? We've certainly noticed the price increase in almonds and walnuts here on the east coast.
    Best,
    KL Gaylin

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    1. Hello KL Gaylin,

      I am happy to read that you enjoyed my photographic tour of the Ferry Plaza farmers' market, and that you are familiar with its lures. It truly is a treasure and whenever we have visiting guests in town, we try to take them there at least once during their stay with us. Leaving empty handed is never an option and everyone always gets into the spirit of things with their spontaneous and mouth-watering purchases.

      The drought, as you mention, is a worrying aspect of farming in the Central Valley, and yes, prices have been steadily rising as of late. Strawberries are just coming to market (Watsonville is, of course, famous for their cultivation of berries). I chuckled at your comment about "garlicky Gilroy". Indeed, the place just reeks of it, and one does not necessarily have to visit the town to smell it (just driving by on the freeway is enough).

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  6. CD,
    I've been to your fabulous Ferry Building farmer's market on a Saturday. Traveling, we couldn't buy all that we wanted, but we had so much fun and I believe we ate some tasty samples. I love the Ferry Building and all of it's stores too. There used to be a store that specialized in antique cooking ware, I can't remember the name of it. Do you think it is still there?
    We have a lovely Farmers market about 5 minutes from our house and we visit regularly.
    Wonderful photographs!
    karen

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    1. Hello Karen,

      How splendid that you too have visited the farmers' market at the Ferry Building, and managed to enjoy some nibbles along the way, which is practically unavoidable considering the amount of samples at every corner.

      I do remember Culinaire, the antiques shop you mention, very well. The proprietor used to source some wonderful culinary related items for the shop from France (mainly) and to a lesser extent from England. I suspect the rent at the Ferry Building was enough to have seen them off only after a few years sadly. From memory, the space today is occupied by Sur La Table, which is stocked very well with modern kitchen equipment, but it is no Culinaire.

      How fortunate you are to have access to a market so close to home. You must delight in the fact that you too get to enjoy impeccably fresh and tasty produce, which is no doubt grown close by in sunny California.

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  7. Hello CD, Farmers' markets possess a magnetic attraction, and I also have an affinity for farmers' stands. One of the great things about driving around in Ohio in the summer is spotting a table in front of a farm house with a sign "Fresh Sweet Corn". Sometimes you have to wait while they bring more in from the fields.

    Taiwan does have a huge number of markets of all types, which are fun to explore, but I don't think that any can compare with the magnificence of your Ferry Plaza Market.
    --Jim
    P.S. Your next trip, please buy one of those sour-flavored breads, and think of me when enjoying it. That display alone is real incentive to move to San Francisco!

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    1. Hello Jim,

      It sounds as though you perfectly understand the draw of the farmers' market, and also the stands you described seeing back in Ohio. There must be nothing better on the planet than to wait for the farmer to replenish his stand with succulent sweet corn!

      I shall think of you indeed the next time I purchase a sourdough loaf, a taste I had yet to experience before arriving in San Francisco. It is unlike any other bread I've had the pleasure of sampling - something about the local air, I believe, and the natural yeast that thrives in it.

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  8. Forgive me if this comes twice but I dont think I was logged into blogger and my comment either disappeared or went through.

    But I envy your markets and while we have a few farmer markets dotted here and there it is still very much a supermarket culture in London and that is the one aspect I really despise living here. I just don't trust the food so much and after scandal after scandal I really feel uninspired when going to the stores. My dream like many others is a kitchen garden but of course it is unrealistic when I can barely handle a window box and a few plant pots!

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    1. Naomi,

      I wholeheartedly agree with you. It is so depressing that supermarkets play such a dominant part of the food chain in England, and especially so in London. I cringe on the occasions I find myself in one of my family's local supermarkets and see the selection of fruits and vegetables on offer, all wrapped in PLASTIC!!! It is such an absolute waste of resources to be packaging every little tomato and potato on offer. However, there are still greengrocers around, thank goodness, where everything looks fresh and one is free to handle goods before buying.

      London does have a few farmers' markets as you've stated. Have you been to Borough Market? It has become quite the destination nowadays.

      A kitchen garden is a dream to be sure. Lots of hard work, but as you've discovered with your window box, very rewarding.

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  9. I love to visit here for lunch whenever I'm visiting San Francisco -also great place to pick up a host/hostess gift! Sadly I'm never able to shop as I'm a tourist. Quele dommage

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    1. AD, next time you are in town, I encourage you to do as you would when visiting Paris (or France in general for that matter). Shop at the farmers' market for a picnic lunch of fresh breads, local cheeses, olives, veggies, fruits, and even a bottle of wine from one of Napa's wineries . Take it all to a nearby park, and enjoy the bounty as a local would. Bon Appétit!

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  10. The Saturday Ferry Building Farmers' Market is the best! We always make a point of visiting when we are in San Francisco. By going first thing in the morning, we can enjoy a fabulous breakfast out in the fresh air with a view of the Bay Bridge. The last time we were there, there was even live muscial entertainment, Perfect! Being out-of-towners, we mostly have to satisfy ourselves with what we can consume on site, but we also buy things such as small jars of organic marmalade from Frog Hollow Farm and the most wonderful lavender lip balm from Eatwell Farm to bring home with us.

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    1. Hello slf,

      So happy to read that you've experienced the joys of shopping at my favorite farmers' market. Frog Hollow Farm is a delight, and even Prince Charles made a point of visiting their outlet when touring the Ferry Building several years ago.

      As I wrote in my response to AD, above, when next visiting the market, make sure to pick up the fixings of a picnic lunch so you too are able to enjoy such local delights as Red Hawk (a particularly pungent triple-cream locally made cheese), a loaf of sourdough bread, and other assorted comestibles to enjoy while taking in the views of the bay.

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    2. Thank you for recommending the Red Hawk - I did not know about that. Yes, the bread in SF is irresistible and while I am normally not a bread person, I devour all the bread on offer at restaurants in the Bay Area - and then ask for more, please!

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    3. slf, if you enjoy bold and stinky cheeses, you will love Cow Girl Creamery's Red Hawk.

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    4. Yes, I do! We used to have a Cow Girl Creamery in our area (Washington, DC) but it closed. While it was still open, my husband and I took a couple of cheese classes there. I wish the shop was still around because it had the best cheeses.

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    5. Oh, I'm sorry to hear that their outpost in DC closed.

      My husband makes cheese too, inspired by a visit to the Cow Girl Creamery up in Point Reyes.

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    6. I am impressed that your husband makes cheese. Our cheese classes at Cow Girl Creamery were more about tasting and learning about the different cheeses. I found the Red Hawk last night at my Whole Foods. I am excited to try it. WF carries a small selection of Cow Girl Creamery cheeses.

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    7. Hooray for you! I'm sure you'll be enjoying the Red Hawk in no time. It does not last long around these parts. In fact, we can get quite carried away and eat an entire round of it over the course of an evening with a few glasses of wine and some great bread.

      I wrote a post on the simplest cheese my husband makes early last year. You can read it here:

      http://chronicadomus.blogspot.com/2014/03/cows-blue-tits-and-little-miss-muffet.html

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  11. I love all your pictures of the farmers market - they make everything look so tempting and colourful and there is so much choice - I can understand how you came away with a basket full of goodies. I grow a lot of my own veg so don't buy a lot and our market is only once a month unfortunately - and I agree that everything is far superior to the supermarket offerings and the people should be given a helping hand wherever possible.

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    1. Hello elaine,

      How marvelous that you grow much of what you consume in your very own productive vegetable garden. I dabble a little too, but nothing I grow would feed my family for more than a handful of meals, hence my weekly stop in at the market. For the past few years I've grown older varieties of peas, tomatoes, strawberries, and lettuces, along with apples, pears and plums from our trees. This year I'm experimenting with potatoes. Not sure how well that will go but I'm keeping all fingers and toes crossed.

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  12. Ah you've done the Ferry Building market proud! I love Acme bread, eat their Whole Grain as my toast every morning. So good. And I'm really intrigued by those eggs. I've shied away from attending the market - due to the crowds - but it looks like I ought to muster up my courage and go.

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    1. Whenever you are ready to muster up that courage, we should set up a play date at the farmers' market, bright and early. The crowds are quite tolerable. Mind you, I am a Londoner and nothing beats those crowds.

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  13. What an absolutely amazing place! I love the variety you have available, especially the mushrooms!
    I would like to bring back wicker baskets: trugs for the garden, baskets on the front of bicycles, wonderful shopping baskets like yours, traditional washing baskets, and large wicker firewood baskets. Let's make a start and ditch plastic alternatives.

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    1. Hello Lord Cowell,

      The mushroom vendor has an amazing selection, which makes cooking fun. Chanterelles are my favorites, so flavorful, but only available at certain times of the year.

      So glad you are on the wicker bandwagon too - plastics be gone! I think it started in childhood with a trip to Bournemouth. We drove by a wicker basket maker and my mother purchased the sweetest little baskets for my sister and I. Please do persevere and find some beautiful baskets for WBP (and then write a post on your finds). Such a lovely alternative to the dreaded plastic bag.

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  14. OMG! this is worth a trip to SF. It makes NYC's market look like a dump. Seriously, even I would get up early to visit a market like this. We do have our share here in Georgia but nothing like this. They are very small. My biggest problem is getting up early enough. Usually by the time I arrive all the good stuff is gone.

    Last year I did manage to purchase some fresh eggs at one of the local markets. What a difference. You are so lucky CD and that is one stylish basket...but then again, I would not expect any less from someone like you!

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    1. Lindaraxa,

      You'd have a ball at this market. I imagine you planning dinner as you wander from stall to stall buying bunches of this or that on a whim. That is the only downside of this fabulous market. One never quite knows when to stop.

      I would have thought that New York city would surely have as glamorous a market as SF, no?

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