Dinner At Boulevard

A local's view of San Francisco's waterfront complete with trolley bus and an illuminated Bay Bridge, as seen from the corner of Boulevard restaurant

Photo: Chronica Domus

What an absolutely lucky girl I am.  As fate would have it, this was my second dinner date in a month at my favorite restaurant in San Francisco. The first, back in mid-May, marked a wedding anniversary and a birthday celebration, and on that occasion a table was secured weeks in advance to insure a happy and carefree evening. On the second occasion, this past Saturday evening, plans to meet friends fell apart earlier in the day so my husband and I seized the moment and made inquiries in hopes of reserving a table for two at Boulevard. Lady Luck was shining down upon us and a table was promptly secured for a late dinner at 9.15 p.m.  The timing could not have been better as it allowed us plenty of time to dress appropriately for such an establishment, and arrive in time to loll away a pleasant hour at the bar prior to taking our seats for dinner. Although a strict dress code is not enforced at Boulevard, my husband and I enjoy upholding old-fashioned sartorial standards of adult dress that befit such a restaurant (suit and tie for him, dress and heels for me). We are not subscribers of the "anything goes" mentality that is sadly becoming the norm at some places around town. I am pleased to report that the majority of diners do make an effort to dress smartly at Boulevard, but of course, there is always the odd few that think it perfectly fine to wander in from the streets in grubby tee-shirts and jeans and actually expect to be seated.

Boulevard is housed within the historic Audiffred building which happens to be the lone surviving structure in the area following the 1906 earthquake and subsequent fire that raged through parts of San Francisco.  The building's architecture resembles those of the French second empire, complete with a mansard roof and garret. Patrons of the restaurant enter through the revolving wooden doors and are warmly greeted by the affable hostess at her desk, which is illuminated by the lamp in the photograph below.

An Art Nouveau inspired lamp in keeping with the interior decoration of Boulevard

Photo: Chronica Domus

Mr. Kuleto, co-owner of Boulevard, did an outstanding job designing the cozy interior which draws heavily from the Art Nouveau period. Everything from the ironwork to the flattering lighting helps set the mood for a swell time ahead.

We were more than ready to kick off the evening with cocktails so Raymond our bartender obliged by mixing our favorite drink from Boulevard's cocktail menu, a cucumber gimlet.  If you've yet to try one, I highly recommend it.  Thirst quenching, refreshing, and gin based, need I say more?

Accoutrements at the well stocked bar

Photo: Chronica Domus

We were having such a pleasant time chatting and unwinding from our busy work week, we decided that with another thirty minutes remaining until it was time to be seated at our table, that a second round of gimlets would be a capital idea.  And, it was.

Our second, and most decidedly final, round of perfectly mixed cucumber gimlets

Photo: Chronica Domus

We eagerly anticipated our dinner this evening as neither of us had eaten for hours beforehand in preparation for the feast that was to come.  We were escorted through the front of the dining room, past the theatrics of the open gallery kitchen, and into the back area where our table awaited us.  As is typical of most of our visits here, the room was buzzing with excited patrons as they happily tucked into their delectable modern American fare with more than a little French flair to it.  I did not spy a single vacant table about the room, but why did this surprise me?  It was, after all, Saturday evening and we were in one of the city's most favored restaurants.  We've been eating here with pleasure for many years and it is always the first place we think of when celebrating special milestones.  Boulevard received the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant two years ago, the highest national restaurant accolade, and the first time that title has returned to a west coast establishment since being won by the storied French Laundry in 2006.

Looking back towards the front of the restaurant upon our arrival when it was still light outside.  The room boasts an impressive domed brick ceiling

Photo: Chronica Domus

One of the things I enjoy most about Boulevard is that it has yet to succumb to the all-too prevalent and annoying trend of playing loud background music.  In fact, they don't play any music at all, which is exactly as I like it.  Of course, I make an exception for live music that adds to the ambiance of a place and doesn't eclipse everything else, but forced loud music to set a mood, as though the happy chit chatting and banter from contented diners was not enough, no thank you!   I want to enjoy my meal and be able to hear my dining companions' conversations, not gain a headache and be deafened in one fell swoop.

The tenderest scallops imaginable

Photo: Chronica Domus

Back to the evening's main event, the food.  We began our dinner with a plate of delicate buttery scallops dressed in brown butter, lentils, and tangy roasted tomatoes.  We also chose the tastiest buffalo buratta and tomato salad we had ever sampled.  Every component was a delight to the taste buds. The creamy buratta was the ideal accompaniment to the perfectly ripened tomatoes, and the surprisingly flavorful basil and colatura dressing.

The buratta and tomato salad that had us raving with delight

Photo: Chronica Domus

You may, as I was, be wondering what on earth is colatura.  It is, I've since discovered, an Italian fish sauce, dating back to the Romans, and primarily made of anchovies.  This tasty new (or would that be old?) discovery is what made me declare this particular salad the best I've had at Boulevard. Which brings me to yet another favorite point about their menu items. Boulevard's staples will always remain the same, no matter which time of year you find yourself eating here.  You will always have a choice of filet mignon, a pork, lamb or quail entree, and a variety of fish.  However, what constantly changes with each of these staples is the seasonal ingredients that are paired with it. For this reason, no two meals you will have eaten at Boulevard will ever be the same (unless you are lucky enough to have a repeat performance the very next day, in which case, you'd be a most fortunate fellow indeed!).

The kitchen staff constantly source the freshest and tastiest local ingredients available to surprise and delight their regular diners.  I suppose it helps that the area's farmers sell their produce directly across the street at the twice-weekly market located at the Ferry Building, one of the country's premier farmers' markets, and one that I enjoy patronizing whenever I have the opportunity.  Even the tasty rounds of pain au levain, a delicious wholewheat sourdough, is walked across the street from the Acme bakery. You really could not get a better confluence of farm-to-table cuisine than this.

Bread rounds are cut by the wait staff as needed to insure the freshest possible taste 

Photo: Chronica Domus

The service here is always discreet but friendly, and most certainly efficient.  Water and wine (if you've ordered a bottle) is replenished as if by magic.  Oh, and don't be surprised upon visiting the ladies room to powder your nose to return to a table where your napkin has thoughtfully and neatly been replaced tableside, ready once again to be used.

We both opted for the Alaskan halibut that was served with fingerling potatoes and an assortment of green beans, marcona almonds, and a delectable lemony green sauce.  It was all so mouthwateringly good.

 

A light and flaky halibut in its spring finery

Photo: Chronica Domus

 

We could not get enough of the tasty bread which is accompanied by the creamiest butter

Photo: Chronica Domus

We cannot quite remember which wines we ordered, which may have just been a side-effect of one too many gimlets earlier on in the evening I suspect. Nevertheless, we were sure they were perfectly suited to our food choices as we managed to quaff every last drop.   

I took a pass on the dessert menu, and opted instead for a decadent sliver of Brillat-Savarin cheese followed by plenty of black coffee, which may have accounted for the the lack of sleep later that evening.  My better half held no resistance to the trio of bonbons that enticed him; manageable little spheres of ice cream covered in chocolate and pretzel pieces bathed in a caramel sauce.  

One final cup of coffee before we head home

Photo: Chronica Domus

What an enjoyable evening we had shared at this marvelous restaurant. We even managed to extend our stay by striking up a conversation with a pair of diners that were sitting at the opposite table from us as we were all about to leave.  They happened to be visiting from Los Angeles and were equally delighted to have eaten at Boulevard this evening too.  The four of us agreed there was no better place to have dinner along the waterfront of San Francisco.

The peacock, a favorite motif of the Art Nouveau period, bids adieu as diners exit through the revolving doors

Photo: Chronica Domus

As we stepped outside into the cool night air, we decided that it was the perfect evening for a gentle stroll along the Embarcadero.  Passing by the familiar sights of the Ferry Building's clock tower, and the dazzling Bay Bridge illuminated by the recent light installation, it was all so terribly romantic and beautiful.  Is it any wonder Tony Bennett left his heart in San Francisco?

A glimpse of the Ferry Building's clock tower as viewed from Boulevard restaurant

Photo: Chronica Domus

If you get the chance to visit this fine city, do consider reserving your table at Boulevard for a uniquely San Francisco experience with food to delight and views of the waterfront to enchant.

 Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.