The exterior of one of the nation's oldest restaurants, Tadich Grill
Photo: Chronica Domus
It immediately occurred to me, when dropping off my daughter at her school friend's birthday party last Saturday, that my husband and I would be childless for the afternoon. Not likely to pass up such serendipitous circumstances, we headed off for an eleventh-hour lunch date at one of the nation's oldest eating establishments, Tadich Grill.
The hefty doors of California's oldest restaurant
Photo: Chronica Domus
What makes this San Francisco jewel so special is that in an age when perfectly good old-fashioned, white tablecloth-type restaurants around town are closing for "updating" and "renovation" (the latest of victims, alas, is another storied favorite spot of ours, The Big 4), Tadich Grill has remained unchanged for decades. And, what is wrong with that I ask you? Their classic formula of professional and efficient (but never stuffy) service, excellent locally sourced and prepared food, and plenty of quality bar drinks, will outlast any newfangled marketing gimmick that can be conjured up to appeal to the latest group of hipsters and the like.
Located in San Francisco's financial district, the best time to visit for an impromptu lunch is always on a Saturday when the surrounding area is an oasis of calm, at least if you compare it to the throngs that descend upon the area during the work week. The restaurant does not accept reservations so no matter who you are, or who you know, you and I will be standing in the same queue until a table, booth or place at the bar becomes available. On occasion, you may even spot a familiar face or two from the worlds of politics, screen or stage.
Although the restaurant was hopping when we arrived, we were immediately welcomed by the friendly staff and asked if we'd prefer to sit at the bar, which spans the length of the restaurant, or if we'd like to be seated at a table. We opted for the table and were escorted to our seats.
Two refreshing gee and tees were promptly ordered while we perused the menu, and oh boy were they effective! There are no feeble drinks served within these wall, so be prepared for a boozy experience.
The bar staff know how to pour 'em!
Photo: Chronica Domus
We knew the place was old, but did not realize until glancing at the front of the menu, that this year Tadich Grill celebrates its 165th birthday. Yes, that's right, an astonishing 165 years in business. Technically, that would make the place older than the state of California, which is quite an achievement. At conception in 1849, the restaurant operated as a coffee stand and also provided its patrons with locally caught grilled fish. Sailors, from the nearby ships docked along the waterfront, made up the majority of the clientele. Today, the full-service restaurant is known primarily for its seafood dishes along with some steak and chop plates.
Happy 165th birthday!
Photo: Chronica Domus
The dining room is a recreation of the original Art Deco interior from the Clay Street site, which was purchased by Wells Fargo for redevelopment back in the 1960s. The space is divided in two by the original long mahogany bar. The woodwork comprising the booths and the low partition wall behind the bar has been faithfully copied from the Clay Street locale. The feeling of stepping back in time to an earlier era is greatly felt upon entering the hefty front doors. Even the wait-staff possess a vintage look with their starched white jackets and aprons, black trousers and ties. I hear most of the staff have been there for eons.
A view of the wooden booths and tables awaiting hungry patrons
Photo: Chronica Domus
We were having such a jolly time chatting and laughing over our drinks, that we almost forgot to order lunch . We settled on two of the mesquite broiled fish platters, a side of farm fresh asparagus, and two further gee and tees, of course. Local sourdough bread, a traditional San Francisco favorite, is always placed at the table and one cannot help but succumb to a nibble or three while waiting for the main event to arrive.
Onto our second gee and tee served Tadich style
Photo: Chronica Domus
Asparagus: old-school style, naturally
Photo: Chronica Domus
Tasty doorstep-sized fried potatoes, their external crispy coating concealing an inner sublime fluffiness, perfectly prepared seasonal vegetables, and a creamy dollop of tarter sauce unlike any tartar sauce I'd tried before, accompanied our broiled fish. Interestingly, it is claimed that Tadich Grill introduced the technique of cooking with mesquite to the United States in 1925.
Mesquite grilled fish of the day - deelish!
Photo: Chronica Domus
As if there was room left for too much else, we did the unthinkable and topped off our generous meal with a sinful bourbon soaked bread pudding. It was superb and as decadent as it sounds. Two or three cups of coffee later, and once the lunch crowd had dissipated, it was time for us to take leave of our nostalgic cocoon and get back to the realities of our world. We had, indeed, enjoyed the most marvelous and leisurely of lunches, spent happily in each other's bubbly company.
Irresistible to those with little will power
Photo: Chronica Domus
Much later that afternoon, upon collecting our daughter from the party in the park she had been attending, and thinking back to what a delightful lunch my husband and I had enjoyed, I was reminded of what it means to truly make the most of every opportunity that presents itself. There I stood, thanking the hostess for her hospitality towards my daughter, when I caught myself distracted by her chest. Across it, on her t-shirt were printed the words "carpe diem". She told me that was her favorite saying. I told her I had just lived it.
Next time you find yourself hungry in San Francisco, do seize the moment and stop by Tadich Grill for lunch or dinner. Not only will you be rewarded with a delicious meal, you will also experience a slice of life from a bygone era rarely to be found in present day dining establishments.
Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog. I do so because I enjoy them. If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.
Dear CD:
ReplyDeleteWhat a wonderful review, and thank you for sharing it! I am a great fan of authentic old-line restaurants, many of which -- as you note -- are unfortunately fast disappearing or being "improved" out of recognition. I am determined to make it to SF at some point, and now that I read this review I will add Tadich's to my list of "must dos" when I am in town. Won't you please join me there? Reggie
Hello Reggie, I think you've hit the nail on the head when you describe such eating establishments as "authentic". That is exactly what Tadich is. And, yes, I would be honored to share a bite or two when you eventually find your way to the other coast. Oh, and perhaps a stiff drink too!
DeleteHello CD, I, too, enjoy such restaurants and hope to have a wonderful experience at New Orleans's Antoine's in May. I enjoyed this post very much.
ReplyDeleteOh, how lucky you are to be visiting such a storied restaurant in a town I've yet to visit, but is high on my list. When I do get there, I shall make a point of dining at this bastion of old-school cuisine. Enjoy your trip in May and please let me know what you thought of Antoine's.
ReplyDeleteIt's my first visit to New Orleans. I shall certainly let you know what I think of Antoine's. I understand that it's a little past its glory days, but Mr. J.W.'s family has been going there for generations and he wants me to experience it.
DeleteAs Reggie said, nothing better than an "authentic" restaurant. He hosted a dinner at one of those in NYC for us last year and it is of the same vintage as Tadich.
ReplyDeleteHello PD, I'm happy to hear such restaurants exist elsewhere (of course they would, come to think of it, seeing as California is such a young state compared to the east coast). I bet you had a marvelous time with your generous host.
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