Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Part II: A Parisian Déjà Vu In New York

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The architectural gem we stumbled upon tucked within Riverside Park
Photo: Chronica Domus


The title of this post has absolutely nothing to do with Ladurée's Manhattan outposts, nor the obligatory queue of macaron lovers spilling into the streets of every city in which Ladurée has a presence.  Rather, today's post pertains to a grand monument commonly overlooked by the hordes of travelers to New York who typically gravitate toward the more recognizable icons of the city.

Indeed, it was by happy accident that my family and I stumbled across this eclectic edifice of classical architecture while on our merry way to viewing another site off the beaten track, about which I am planning a separate post.

Its unexpected discovery was made during a cab ride to Harlem early one chilly morning, while driving along picture perfect Riverside Drive, where we spotted what looked to be something rather special. Built of grey granite and situated high upon a mound by the Hudson River, our curiosity was piqued. Several hours later, having completed our tour of what we had ventured to see in Harlem, we meandered back down the hill, through squirrel-happy Riverside Park, until we once again came upon the resplendent structure which had previously caught our eye.

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Our paths crossed with many darting squirrels in Riverside Park
Photo: Chronica Domus


To our great surprise and delight, it came to be that we were marveling at North America's largest mausoleum, which happened to be the final resting place of America's eighteenth president, Ulysses S. Grant, and his wife Julia Dent Grant.  Not only that, but a fleeting moment of  déjà vu was forefront in my mind.

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General Grant National Memorial reminded me of ...
Photo: Chronica Domus


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... L'Hotel de Invalides where Napoleon Bonaparte is entombed
Photo: Chronica Domus



How was it that upon entering the General Grant National Memorial I was reminded so much of another tomb I had visited in Paris, that of Napoleon Bonaparte at L'Hotel de Invalides?  The similarities were so striking that I instinctively knew my way around the building, which I will confess, is a most surreal and slightly unsettling experience.  I even felt the same sense of cocooned stillness befitting both honored places of rest, aided perhaps by the soaring scale of the dome and the acoustical qualities of its hard marble surfaces. 

Of course, Grant's tomb was considerably more severe in it's paucity of decoration, a result of eliminating many of the elaborate sculptural adornments from the architect's original plan due to lack of funding. However, both spaces share many architectural similarities.  For instance ...


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... Looking up into the dome of Grant's tomb ...
Photo: Chronica Domus

Photo: Chronica Domus

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... and looking up towards the dome of Napoleon's tomb
Photo: Chronica Domus

The design elements mirrored in each tomb continue downstairs into the marble lined circular crypt where the twin sarcophagi of President and Mrs. Grant are situated. Made of red Montello granite mined in Wisconsin, the sarcophagi, weighing eight and a half tons a piece, resemble that of Napoleon's which was carved of another reddish-colored stone known as porphyry. The plinths at both locations are similarly constructed not only in their stepped design, but also in their choice of stone. 


Sarcophagi sit side-by-side at the General Grant National Memorial
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The sarcophagi at Grant's tomb, and their situation, bear a striking resemblance to Napoleon's tomb in Paris
Photo: Chronica Domus


Napoleon's porphyry sarcophagus and green granite plinth
Photo: Chronica Domus 


The photographs below clearly illustrate how much Napoleon's crypt, completed thirty-five years earlier than Grant's, had influenced the American architect John Hemingway Duncan when seeking inspiration for the general's memorial.  The square marble pillars are almost identical to those used in Paris.  I wonder if Mr. Duncan's vision had included statuary at each pillar before reaching the limits of his funding.

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The marble pillars of Grant's tomb ...
Photo: Chronica Domus


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... and those of Napoleon's tomb
Photo: Chronica Domus

Our discovery of this important and beautiful national treasure left us a little perplexed as to the circumstances of it being erected in New York of all places (many of the presidential memorials are located in Washington D.C., the nation's capital, where in fact, we recalled viewing a small bronze statue commemorating President Grant on our visit there several years ago).  We were, nonetheless, delighted to have stumbled upon this grand memorial and would encourage anyone with an interest in architecture or history to make the trek uptown when next in New York city to view this stately and hallowed structure firsthand. Oh, and if the weather is clement, a picnic amid the pleasant environs of the park, and its many squirrels, would surely top off an enjoyable excursion.  Do plan your visit carefully and check the opening times and dates so as not to be disappointed, here.

Nota bene: While researching this post, I discovered that Mrs. Grant had written to New York's mayor with her justification for why her husband's national memorial should be located in New York and not Washington D.C., as was the prevailing consensus of the time.  Published by the mayor for all to see, she states "Riverside was selected by myself and my family as the burial place of my husband, General Grant.  First, because I believe New York was his preference.  Second, it is near the residence that I hope to occupy as long as I live, and where I will be able to visit his resting place often.  Third, I have believed, and am now convinced, that the tomb will be visited by as many of his countrymen there as it would be at any other place. Fourth, the offer of a park in New York was the first which observed and unreservedly assented to the only condition imposed by General Grant himself, namely that I should have a place by his side".

Mrs. Grant also made it known that there should never be a public restroom in her tomb, and to this day, there is none.

20 comments:

  1. Hello CD, These old monuments indeed inspire awe, and discovering Grant's Tomb the way you did makes it an extra-special experience. The photos you show of the interior of Napoleon's Tomb are beautiful in their classical details, but I also like the more chaste appearance of Grant's Tomb, which seems appropriate for a mausoleum. Perhaps the budget constraints actually helped by making the building more solemn, thus evoking serious thoughts of General Grant and his legacy.
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim,

      I remember when I descended into Napoleon's crypt that the space was utterly gorgeous, especially the hazy light streaming directly onto the sarcophagus and bouncing off the statuary. I think that particular area has been my favorite of any place I have ever visited. It was indeed beautiful.

      Grant's tomb also was beautiful in the winter light, particularly upstairs looking towards the dome where the amber light shone.

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  2. Dearest CD,
    You have stumbled upon something and someone very near and dear to GSL's heart. Ulysses S. Grant is the best General our country has ever produced and his Presidency's reputation has also recovered in recent decades. As a fellow Scots-Irish soldier whose ancestors also hail from County Tyrone, I have been working on a project, in fits and starts, for years to honor him that will be previewed in The Den later this year.
    How fitting that France's (actually Corsica) and America's finest Generals final resting places be very similarly designed with the American monument retaining the finer points in form and function while respectfully shunning the ornate grandeur from our oldest ally.
    Very well done CD!

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    1. Why am I not surprised to learn that General Grant is someone to whom you hold close to your heart? I look forward to reading all about your project at The Den when you've completed it (and don't make us wait too long now!).

      Have you visited the memorial? There are two small rooms that display battle flags and memorabilia associated with Grant's battles that may be of interest to you.

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  3. I just finished reading your two latest posts and can't tell you how much I have enjoyed them. As a former New Yorker I have to admit, with egg on my face, that I had no idea Grant's Tomb was in New York City nor its whereabouts. I must remedy that one of these days. But 122nd St and Riverside! it must be quite a shock arriving back at the Carlyle. I had never seen those drawings in the wallpaper in the many times I've been to th B's Bar. Then again it was always so dark.I haven't been in years, since Bobby Short sat at the piano. His first song was always S'Wonderful!.The things one remembers....Great choice of a hotel and my part of town. Luckily I still have a best friend who lives just a few blocks away. BTW, there are photos of old postcards of Grant's tomb in Google images.

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    1. Hello Lindaraxa,

      Thrilled to read that you've enjoyed my scribblings on your former city, and that you'll be making a trek over to see the memorial next time you are in town. Personally, the best thing about traveling are the discoveries one makes when venturing off the beaten track. I bet you know a few yourself.

      How thrilling it must have been to spend an evening at The Carlyle listening to Bobby Short. Must have been quite marvelous.

      All this talk of New York must make you want to visit your friend soon, no?

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  4. I have never visited this place even though I lived in the upper west side...I have friends who live near there working at Columbia so will make sure I visit. I don't mind the general but I saw a PBS documentary about him and was a bit saddened by his time post presidency. An interesting figure indeed and a proud New Yorker he was too!

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    1. Gosh, you've been around! It must have been lovely to live in New York. I'm glad to read that my post on this wonderful monument may have you back there for a visit.

      I need to see that documentary so thank you for making me aware of it.

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  5. Hello,

    This is a most intriguing post.

    The similarities of these two burial places are incredible. How clever of you to notice this. Interesting, of course, how much more elaborately decorated and expensively fitted the Napoleonic version is but that is surely to be expected. Nevertheless, the architectural details are mirrored. Fascinating.

    Perhaps it seems slightly macabre, but we do like visiting burial grounds of all kinds.nand, elaborate tombs are definite favourites. Here in Budapest the main cemetery is an incredible sight, both in terms of elaborate mausoleums but also in its extensive grounds. On Dead Day the most famous tombs are opened got visitors to peer inside.

    Well, should we ever find ourselves in New York one day, then Grant's Tomb would be on our visiting list!

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    1. Hello Jane and Lance,

      So lovely to have you back in the blogosphere!

      We are kindred spirits certainly, as I do not find anything approaching macabre around the topic of visits to burial grounds. In fact, I always make a point of seeking out such places whenever I travel both near and far. It seems like most of the old churches in England have lovely small graveyards on the church grounds, and markers within, that I enjoy visiting, and I'm sure the cemetery in Budapest is quite a sight to behold.

      Many years ago in San Francisco, all the old graves were moved outside of the city to Colma, where some very large mausoleums can be found. Perhaps I'll do a post on that one of these days.

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  6. CD,
    I have seen Napoleon's tomb and am now sad I missed seeing Grant's tomb during one of my many visits to New York.
    Clearly, the squirrels get plenty to eat, the one you shared with us looks a little chubby, precious but chubby.
    xo,
    Karen
    P.S. I had to laugh that Mrs. Grant did not want public restrooms in her tomb!

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    1. Hello Karen,

      Well, I'm glad that you now have another place to visit the next time you are in that fine city. As for the squirrels, yes, they were certainly well fed. In fact, a kind gentleman was doing just that on a nearby bench. He was quite a hit with the wildlife I can tell you.

      As for the restrooms, I thought it funny too. Don't wives always have the last word?

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  7. Dear CD,
    Thank you for sharing your wonderful Manhattan travel log with us. I grew up in one of the many "bedroom" towns of NJ. My father commuted to the city daily and our family visited NYC often. And while I have seen Napoleon's resting place, I have never visited Grant's tomb, but plan to do so the next time we visit the Big Apple.
    As your peregrinations took you to the northern portion of Manhattan Island, did you perchance see The Cloisters? It is the Metropolitan Museum's less visited but no less lauded repository of Medieval treasures.
    Best,
    KL Gaylin

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    1. Hello KL Gaylin,

      I'm happy that you will include Grant's tomb on your itinerary the next time you are in the city. The comparisons between L'Hotel de Invalides and Grant's final resting place are really quite remarkable.

      We did not visit The Cloisters but did spend an unforgettable morning at The Met with one of the blogosphere's shining lights (or would that be shining knights), a fellow blogger friend who has an encyclopedic knowledge of the museum and its collection, in particular The American wing. In fact, after we bid him adieu, we remained in the museum for a further four hours immersed in the gorgeousness of it all.

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  8. Interesting comparaison. You are full of surprises, CD. Not many people would choose Napoleon's tomb as a favorite place yet it is inspiring with its grandeur and solemnity.
    I'll have to read up on USG. I admit to having a bad impression of him from certain readings and Ken Burn's documentary on the civil war. I do admire Lee!

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    1. Hello gésbi,

      I suppose it does seem a little strange that the space around Napoleon's sarcophagus is so utterly beautiful to me, but it truly is magnificent. One could almost be transported back to ancient Greece because of the decoration (the marble, statuary, oil lamps), and the beautiful light that was streaming into the crypt on the day I visited.

      I've not seen Mr. Burns' documentary so shall put it on my watch list, thank you.

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  9. Dear CD,

    Thank you for taking us on this most interesting tour. The third image above immediately reminded me of the Shrine of Remembrance (Melbourne Australia), though the interiors of each building do not share similarities. This blog post has some good images:
    http://nixpages.blogspot.com.au/2011/08/shrine-of-remembrance-melbourne.html

    I'm sure you'd enjoy a visit should you ever find yourself in this part of the world (and it also set in vast gardens - ideal for a picnic!).

    Spud.

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    1. Dearest Spud,

      It seems like a trip to the southern hemisphere is in order, a place to which I've yet to venture, and a place that has intrigued me for some time.

      You are very clever to make the connection with The Shrine of Remembrance, a building that was inspired by the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus. Indeed, the architect of Grant's tomb was also inspired by this ancient wonder of the world.

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  10. A nice little history lesson, which prompted me to wonder why Josephine was not buried with Napoleon, but showing my ignorance on the subject, I then I discovered they were divorced. I then wondered why his second wife, Marie Louise was not interred with Napoleon, but she had two further marriages after his death. He was both revered and reviled, and I suppose this mausoleum expresses the reverence.

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    1. Indeed, he certainly kept himself busy in the battlefield as well as the bedroom.

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