Summer Glaciers and Flower Meadows

A view from the slopes of  Mount Rainier with snowy Mount Adams just visible on the horizon

Photo: Chronica Domus

Leaving the vibrancy of city life behind in Portland, we headed north in preparation for the next leg of our journey, one that would provide us with an altogether different experience.

Clearly, one is traveling through Washington state, make no mistake about that!

Photo: Chronica Domus

The above photograph shows how the state of Washington pays homage to its namesake president.  It seems that every major highway sign I saw included a silhouette of our first president's likeness. Confusion as to which state one is driving through is immediately dashed with this unique visual cue.  So very clever, I think.  Actually, confusion could easily rain down upon motorists entering and exiting Portland, especially as the state lines of Oregon and Washington span the city's swarm of bridges.

Cows happily graze in the fertile meadows around Mount Rainier

Photo: Chronica Domus

What punctuates the surrounding pastoral landscape as one travels further north is an extraordinary series of mountain peaks that are covered in snow, even during the heat of summer.  These peaks are so enormous, so dominant, so magnificent, that one cannot fail to have one's breath taken away upon first glimpse.  Our destination was Mount Rainier, the highest peak in the Cascade mountain range, and considered to be one of the world's most dangerous volcanoes.  It rises 14,411 feet at its summit, and holds no peer anywhere in the contiguous United States.  Simply put, Mount Rainier is a giant.

We were to spend the day as guests of a local dendrologist and his wife, who had generously offered to give us a guided driven tour of Mount Rainier National Park.  As we entered the park, we spotted the sign below.  We were definitely entering the wildlands of the northwest.

Hungry bear alert

Photo: Chronica Domus

This young lady waved us through to begin our tour of one of the regions most pristine parks.

A friendly park ranger greets us at the entrance to the park

Photo: Chronica Domus

Mount Rainier National Park is the system's fifth oldest national park, and is home to not only picturesque sub-alpine meadows, crystalline blue lakes, rivers, and vast ancient forests, but it is also home to abundant wildlife.

This sparkling emerald green lake is so pristine that the trunks of submerged fallen trees are visible to the naked eye

Photo: Chronica Domus

Throughout our day of driving and hiking we gazed upon spectacular scenic tableaux.  Our guide Thom, we discovered, was extremely knowledgeable and was able to provide background information on the many natural features we stopped to admire along the way.  Thom is also an expert dendrologist so each time I had a question on what variety of tree this was, or what plant that was, Thom always had an answer for me.

Not only does the park provide a natural visual feast for its delighted visitors, it also boasts several buildings that were constructed by the National Park Service in a fashion that is sympathetic to its naturalistic surroundings.  This architectural style, developed in the early twentieth century, is sometimes referred to as "Parkitecture", or National Park Rustic.  The first example we saw on our visit was at a spot known as Sunrise, when we stopped for a short hike around the visitor center and day lodge.

The rustic-style shingled day lodge at Sunrise was built in 1931

Photo: Chronica Domus

Another example of "parkitecture" is the Sunrise Visitor Center which provides its visitors with telescopes for a better view of Mount Rainier

Photo: Chronica Domus

Sunrise is the highest point on the mountain that cars can access, rising to a lofty 6,400 feet above sea level.  It is here that visitors gain the most complete view of the park and the extraordinary splendor that abounds.

 A view of the glaciers on Mount Rainier (a blue glacier is visible cascading down the right side of the peak)

Photo: Chronica Domus

The area is also famed for its swathes of wild flowers which briefly appear during the short summer months when the snow has melted.  We were fortunate to be visiting during the mountain's dazzling show and saw many unusual varieties, such as the example shown in the following photograph.

A fluffy anemone occidentalis which appears rather magical to me, and to my daughter was reminiscent of Dr. Suess' truffula tree, of Lorax fame

Photo: Chronica Domus

A colorful wild flower meadow of dwarf lupines and scarlet paintbrush

Photo: Chronica Domus

Continuing our tour around and down the mountain, we stopped at the Grove of The Patriarchs Loop for a brief respite in the form of a light picnic, and a leisurely amble around the looping trail.  I was surprised to see how much the vegetation on this side of the mountain, and at this lower elevation, varied from the sub-alpine species thriving uphill.  Here, surrounded by mighty ancient specimens of hemlock, Douglas fir, and western red cedar, one felt terribly insignificant.  It was as though we had stepped into an otherworldly place.  I was half expecting an encounter with a prehistoric beast where I would soon become his lunch. No, instead sprightly chipmunks frolicked along the forest floor, and the cacophonous din of Steller's jays swooping overhead was the only sound to break the silence.

This enormous towering mossy ancient red cedar has survived at least a thousand years

Photo: Chronica Domus

An example of a "nursery tree", a fallen tree that sprouts new life by growing vertical trunks

Photo: Chronica Domus

To view some of these trees, one must first take a little adventure across a small and somewhat treacherous suspension bridge that spans the clearest river I had ever set eyes upon, the Ohanapecosh.  We performed our finest Indiana Jones impersonations as we negotiated the wobbly structure, one person at a time.  Clearly, the three panic-stricken Japanese visitors we spied did not read the warning sign, which is written in English, and cautions against multiple people crossing simultaneously. Oops!

The Ohanapecosh suspension bridge which proved a challenging feat to keep stable

Photo: Chronica Domus

Concluding our drive around the park, we headed towards Paradise, affording us another opportunity to view the blue glaciers on Mount Rainier, and see yet another fine example of a National Park rustic structure, the historic Paradise Inn.

Paradise Inn was built to withstand the heaviest snowfalls in the park

Photo: Chronica Domus

A purple foxglove growing in a wild flower meadow in Paradise

Photo: Chronica Domus

Traveling through a stone tunnel, and passing several waterfalls, which are fed by melting glacial waters, we were soon to end a most enjoyable and memorable tour of this spectacular jewel in the National Park system's crown.

The stone bridge at Box Canyon

Photo: Chronica Domus

Melting water from Mount Rainier's glaciers create this waterfall

Photo: Chronica Domus

A bucolic final view of the majestic volcano

Photo: Chronica Domus 

Of course, our experience was made more enjoyable thanks to our knowledgeable and generous host and expert guide Thom, and his delightful and gracious wife, and for that we are most indebted to them.

I do hope you've enjoyed reading about this area of outstanding natural beauty.  In our fast-paced modern world, where more and more land is being turned over to developers, it is comforting to know that these unspoiled areas were conserved and set aside as parks for the enjoyment of future generations.

24 Hours In Bridgetown

One of the multitude of bridges leading to the heart of Portland

Photo: Chronica Domus

A couple of days into our road trip north, after driving through vast stretches of countryside with views of both low lying fields and mountainous forests, we headed into Portland, the Pacific northwest's third most populous city.  There are so many bridges spanning the city's two rivers that Portland has gained the apt epithet of Bridgetown.  Thank goodness these are all toll-free as anyone visiting Portland will soon discover that bridges act as essential arteries in keeping both sides of the city moving (Portland is also served by excellent forms of public transportation for those without a vehicle).

The city is thriving and vibrant, even on a Sunday afternoon which is when we rolled into town after having briefly visited family members in the Kelso area of Washington. We checked into the fabulous Sentinel Hotel in downtown Portland, and quickly made a bee line to the downstairs bar for refreshments.

A corner view of the elegant lobby of the Sentinel Hotel

Photo: Chronica Domus

The Sentinel is the type of hotel you can check into and forget your troubles.   It is housed in two of Portland's most beautiful and historic buildings and has recently received a renovation to satisfy the most discerning modern traveler.  Its charm lies in the fact that it somehow manages to retain the best aspects of its storied past. Attention to the smallest detail is evident throughout, with emphasis on using locally made products whenever possible.

The chic green door and polished brass knocker of our home away from home 

Photo: Chronica Domus

The smart and stylish bar just off the hotel's lobby awaits our arrival

Photo: Chronica Domus

After our deliciously refreshing libations, we took a stroll around the vicinity of our digs during the afternoon heat to discover some of the delights of the historic downtown area.  Surprisingly, for a city situated so far north, the temperature during the afternoon of our visit reached into the mid-90's, a rare occurrence in San Francisco.

If only this wonderful shop had been open, perhaps we could have purchased a hat to keep the sun at bay.

John Helmer's haberdasher just around the corner from our hotel

Photo: Chronica Domus

A dapper selection of hats to suit every taste

Photo: Chronica Domus

It is evident that Portland is a city which takes great pride in its civic planning.  On our walk we saw many older buildings of character (at least by west coast standards), many of them proudly registered on the National Register of Historic Places.  There were leafy parks and monuments for residents and visitors to enjoy, wonderful shops to poke around in, a library, theaters, a concert hall, and museums.  I wanted to visit the current exhibition at the Portland Art Museum, The Art of The Louvre's Tuileries Garden, but we had not allowed ourselves sufficient time to do the exhibit justice.  Instead, we walked within the leafy environs of the nearby park, seen below, and discovered the sandstone fountain with a bronze sculpture of Rebecca at the well.

We ambled through this shady park which spans twelve city blocks

Photo: Chronica Domus

Shemanski's Fountain thoughtfully provides a trio of drinking platforms, one especially designed for canine companions

Photo: Chronica Domus

We wandered by the brick facade of the old Roosevelt hotel building, now converted into private apartments, passed various homes that reminded me of those seen in San Francisco, and stumbled across an imposing stone church boasting an organ built in New York and shipped around the cape in 1840. 

The smart exterior of the former Roosevelt Hotel in downtown Portland

Photo: Chronica Domus

The architecture of this building is reminiscent of many seen in San Francisco

Photo: Chronica Domus

An attractively designed lamp outside the Portland public library

Photo: Chronica Domus

The steeple of a nearby church a few blocks from our hotel

Photo: Chronica Domus

After all of that exploring, it was almost time to return to our room and dress for dinner at Jake's Grill. 

The entrance to Jake's Grill where dinner will soon be served

Photo: Chronica Domus

The interior of Jake's Grill exudes old-world charm with a decidedly Art Deco feel to the decoration.  White starched tablecloths and traditionally attired wait staff set the mood.  So, why in heavens did the management see fit to blast percussion based music more suited to a dance floor than a finely tailored classic room? It did not suit the ambiance of the place one bit.  A thumping disco-remix of Blondie's Heart of Glass almost made us run for the hills. Inevitably, despite the good food and a wonderful dessert of fresh raspberries with mascarpone cheese, pistachios and a basil sauce, the music chased us off entirely too early and we spent the remainder of the evening recuperating and relaxing in our excellent hotel room.

A view of one of the elegantly appointed dining rooms at Jake's Grill

Photo: Chronica Domus

The detail of the brass coffered ceiling

Photo: Chronica Domus

A little gentle jazz (if music need be played at all) would suit the old-school mood far better than a heart pounding disco-remix rendition of Heart of Glass

Photo: Chronica Domus

At least they got dessert right, delish!

Photo: Chronica Domus

The problem with staying at the Sentinel Hotel is that one is made to feel so pampered and comfortable, it is difficult to contemplate one's departure.  Guests are thoughtfully provided with an excellent selection of local coffees and teas, which makes one's morning brew a very pleasant affair indeed.  The tea I sampled was so tasty and robust that I did my part in supporting the local Portland economy and ordered two boxes of it to be delivered home upon our return.  I had not previously been aware of the existence of Steven Smith Teamaker, so bringing home a little of the local flavor of Portland would be a very nice souvenir of our trip.

My morning cuppa waited brewing

Photo: Chronica Domus

The room-service breakfast was a wonderful indulgence that made us want to extend our stay for another day, but we needed to press on and head back up to Washington for the next leg of our journey.

Breakfast is served!

Photo: Chronica Domus

Before departing Portland, however, I fell victim to an item that kept me toasty during my supremely comfortable night of slumber.  The Sentinel, with laudable emphasis on using locally made and sourced quality products, accouter their beds in luxurious woolen Pendleton blankets.  I had to take one home with me to guard against the often chilly San Francisco evening air.  So, off we set on a short drive to find Pendleton's Pearl District outpost in hopes of procuring the same plaid gray example found in our room.  I am happy to report that our mission was a success and that cold shoulders and icy feet will now become a thing of the past.

Our bed's woolen blanket, locally made and proudly so.

Photo: Chronica Domus

The Pearl District's outpost for Portland-based Pendleton Woolen Mills

Photo: Chronica Domus

Not all the fun and games were geared toward the adult travelers on this trip.  No, our junior road tripper had great fun at the place featured in the photograph below.

What on earth was going on here?

Photo: Chronica Domus

If local myth was to be believed, this place would provide a unique experience in doughnut eating.  Portlanders, some even accompanied by their dogs, queue patiently in serpentine lines for the privilege of sampling good things in pink boxes. Voodoo Doughnuts, a local institution, must be the nation's most unusual and colorful doughnut shop.  Perhaps you fancy chomping on a Bacon Maple Bar, or would the Arnold Palmer with lemonade frosting be more to your liking?  You could perhaps give the Portland cream doughnut a try, which is covered with chocolate frosting and decorated with two eyeballs representing "the vision of our great city", according to the witty and humorous owners. 

As the sign rightfully proclaims "Good things come in pink boxes"

Photo: Chronica Domus

What most doughnut-eating aficionados are eager to bite into is the famous Voodoo Doll doughnut, complete with pretzel stake to pierce your doll and watch as the oozing raspberry jam within is released.

The Voodoo Doll, McMinnville Cream, and a Raspberry Romeo doughnut await their fate

Photo: Chronica Domus

I must say that our junior traveler was most delighted with her novelty doughnut and I even got to share in the fun by devouring the Raspberry Romeo.

And with that adventure behind us, we were off.  I was dearly sorry to bid farewell to Portland so soon after having arrived.  This fair city certainly warrants further exploration and offers its fortunate visitors far more to do and see.  I look forward to a return visit in the not-too-distant future.

In my next post, I shall write about a place that is miles away from the hubbub of cities and towns, and an area of great tranquility and outstanding natural beauty.

 Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

A Journey of Contrasts

Golden sunflowers as far as the eye can see

Photo: Chronica Domus

Can you guess where I've been over the past week from the photographs above and below? Provence in southeastern France, you say?

An army of sunflowers stand to attention against the azure skies

Photo: Chronica Domus

How about the following photograph, where in the world was this one taken?  The Swiss Alps perhaps?

Snow in summer, where can I be?
Photo: Chronica Domus

And this misty coastal scene, could it be the rugged Irish or Scottish coastline?

Mist enrobes the jagged rocks along the coastline, but where?

Photo: Chronica Domus

If ever there was a journey of contrasts, this was it.  I have spent an absolutely terrific week on the road with my family witnessing the spectacular diversity of landscape through central California and up into the majesty that is the northwestern United States.  

While passports awaited renewing and the summer months slipped away before our eyes, the decision to head north on an adventure was hatched with little notice and great enthusiasm. Our journey had us traversing two-thousand miles through three states, meandering high and low, and experiencing temperatures ranging from the mid 50s to the low 100s within a few short hours of a single afternoon.  We visited both small towns and large cities, slept in quaint bed and breakfast establishments and even a renovated grand dame hotel.  From the lushest emerald green forests of Oregon and snow capped peaks of Washington, to the golden brown parched hillsides of central California, and the rugged coastline where land spills into the Pacific ocean, we saw it all; all of it gloriously juxtaposed to whatever came before it on our journey.

Over the next several posts I plan on sharing a little more from our roadside adventures and hope you will ride along for the trip. Oh, and just in case you were still wondering where these photographs were taken, I snapped the sunflowers from the edge of farmland just north of Woodland, California, the snowy peak is Mount Rainier, an active volcano in Washington state, and the final photograph is a view of the atmospheric Oregon Pacific coastline.  All of it magical, all of it singularly stunning.