Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Summer Glaciers and Flower Meadows

Chronica Domus
A view from the slopes of  Mount Rainier with snowy Mount Adams just visible on the horizon
Photo: Chronica Domus


Leaving the vibrancy of city life behind in Portland, we headed north in preparation for the next leg of our journey, one that would provide us with an altogether different experience.

Chronica Domus
Clearly, one is traveling through Washington state, make no mistake about that!
Photo: Chronica Domus


The above photograph shows how the state of Washington pays homage to its namesake president.  It seems that every major highway sign I saw included a silhouette of our first president's likeness. Confusion as to which state one is driving through is immediately dashed with this unique visual cue.  So very clever, I think.  Actually, confusion could easily rain down upon motorists entering and exiting Portland, especially as the state lines of Oregon and Washington span the city's swarm of bridges.

Chronica Domus
Cows happily graze in the fertile meadows around Mount Rainier
Photo: Chronica Domus


What punctuates the surrounding pastoral landscape as one travels further north is an extraordinary series of mountain peaks that are covered in snow, even during the heat of summer.  These peaks are so enormous, so dominant, so magnificent, that one cannot fail to have one's breath taken away upon first glimpse.  Our destination was Mount Rainier, the highest peak in the Cascade mountain range, and considered to be one of the world's most dangerous volcanoes.  It rises 14,411 feet at its summit, and holds no peer anywhere in the contiguous United States.  Simply put, Mount Rainier is a giant.

We were to spend the day as guests of a local dendrologist and his wife, who had generously offered to give us a guided driven tour of Mount Rainier National Park.  As we entered the park, we spotted the sign below.  We were definitely entering the wildlands of the northwest.

Chronica Domus
Hungry bear alert
Photo: Chronica Domus


This young lady waved us through to begin our tour of one of the regions most pristine parks.

Chronica Domus
A friendly park ranger greets us at the entrance to the park
Photo: Chronica Domus


Mount Rainier National Park is the system's fifth oldest national park, and is home to not only picturesque sub-alpine meadows, crystalline blue lakes, rivers, and vast ancient forests, but it is also home to abundant wildlife.

Chronica Domus
This sparkling emerald green lake is so pristine that the trunks of submerged fallen trees are visible to the naked eye
Photo: Chronica Domus


Throughout our day of driving and hiking we gazed upon spectacular scenic tableaux.  Our guide Thom, we discovered, was extremely knowledgeable and was able to provide background information on the many natural features we stopped to admire along the way.  Thom is also an expert dendrologist so each time I had a question on what variety of tree this was, or what plant that was, Thom always had an answer for me.

Not only does the park provide a natural visual feast for its delighted visitors, it also boasts several buildings that were constructed by the National Park Service in a fashion that is sympathetic to its naturalistic surroundings.  This architectural style, developed in the early twentieth century, is sometimes referred to as "Parkitecture", or National Park Rustic.  The first example we saw on our visit was at a spot known as Sunrise, when we stopped for a short hike around the visitor center and day lodge.

Chronica Domus
The rustic-style shingled day lodge at Sunrise was built in 1931
Photo: Chronica Domus

Chronica Domus
Another example of "parkitecture" is the Sunrise Visitor Center which provides its visitors with telescopes for a better view of Mount Rainier
Photo: Chronica Domus


Sunrise is the highest point on the mountain that cars can access, rising to a lofty 6,400 feet above sea level.  It is here that visitors gain the most complete view of the park and the extraordinary splendor that abounds.

Chronica Domus
 A view of the glaciers on Mount Rainier (a blue glacier is visible cascading down the right side of the peak)
Photo: Chronica Domus

The area is also famed for its swathes of wild flowers which briefly appear during the short summer months when the snow has melted.  We were fortunate to be visiting during the mountain's dazzling show and saw many unusual varieties, such as the example shown in the following photograph.

Chronica Domus
A fluffy anemone occidentalis which appears rather magical to me, and to my daughter was reminiscent of Dr. Suess' truffula tree, of Lorax fame
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A colorful wild flower meadow of dwarf lupines and scarlet paintbrush
Photo: Chronica Domus


Continuing our tour around and down the mountain, we stopped at the Grove of The Patriarchs Loop for a brief respite in the form of a light picnic, and a leisurely amble around the looping trail.  I was surprised to see how much the vegetation on this side of the mountain, and at this lower elevation, varied from the sub-alpine species thriving uphill.  Here, surrounded by mighty ancient specimens of hemlock, Douglas fir, and western red cedar, one felt terribly insignificant.  It was as though we had stepped into an otherworldly place.  I was half expecting an encounter with a prehistoric beast where I would soon become his lunch. No, instead sprightly chipmunks frolicked along the forest floor, and the cacophonous din of Steller's jays swooping overhead was the only sound to break the silence.

Chronica Domus
This enormous towering mossy ancient red cedar has survived at least a thousand years
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
An example of a "nursery tree", a fallen tree that sprouts new life by growing vertical trunks
Photo: Chronica Domus

To view some of these trees, one must first take a little adventure across a small and somewhat treacherous suspension bridge that spans the clearest river I had ever set eyes upon, the Ohanapecosh.  We performed our finest Indiana Jones impersonations as we negotiated the wobbly structure, one person at a time.  Clearly, the three panic-stricken Japanese visitors we spied did not read the warning sign, which is written in English, and cautions against multiple people crossing simultaneously. Oops!

Chronica Domus
The Ohanapecosh suspension bridge which proved a challenging feat to keep stable
Photo: Chronica Domus

Concluding our drive around the park, we headed towards Paradise, affording us another opportunity to view the blue glaciers on Mount Rainier, and see yet another fine example of a National Park rustic structure, the historic Paradise Inn.

Chronica Domus
Paradise Inn was built to withstand the heaviest snowfalls in the park
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A purple foxglove growing in a wild flower meadow in Paradise
Photo: Chronica Domus


Traveling through a stone tunnel, and passing several waterfalls, which are fed by melting glacial waters, we were soon to end a most enjoyable and memorable tour of this spectacular jewel in the National Park system's crown.

Chronica Domus
The stone bridge at Box Canyon
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Melting water from Mount Rainier's glaciers create this waterfall
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A bucolic final view of the majestic volcano
Photo: Chronica Domus 

Of course, our experience was made more enjoyable thanks to our knowledgeable and generous host and expert guide Thom, and his delightful and gracious wife, and for that we are most indebted to them.

I do hope you've enjoyed reading about this area of outstanding natural beauty.  In our fast-paced modern world, where more and more land is being turned over to developers, it is comforting to know that these unspoiled areas were conserved and set aside as parks for the enjoyment of future generations.

18 comments:

  1. Hello CD, At first, I wasn't sure whether that highway sign was supposed to represent Washington's profile or Mt. St. Helens erupting--I had to look twice.

    The natural beauty and perfect condition of that park are a testament to those who make it their business to keep it that way. I am curious about your friend the dendrologist. Does he use his skills mostly for environmental study, or for some other specialized use?
    --Jim

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Jim, make no mistake, we saw plenty of other local signage with regards to escaping a volcanic eruption. Volcano evacuation routes are very well identified in the area.

      Yes, Thom's specialty is environmental protection which suits him well as he lives locally. I couldn't think of a better setting to put his skills to use.

      Delete
  2. how beautiful and it appears to be without enormous crowds that choke Yosemite and Yellowstone?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. AD, it is so true about Yosemite being overrun by visitors. I've not had the pleasure of visiting Yellowstone yet, but from your comments, it sounds just the same. Perhaps the secret is to visit during the off season.

      Delete
  3. You've really got me yearning for a long walk in the woods which I am long overdue for. Beautiful pics and thanks for sharing what must have been a wonderful experience. Thank goodness our forefathers were wise enough to set these lands aside for future generations.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. GSL, get thyself to a woodland pronto! Is there anything better to rejuvenate one's batteries and recharge from city life? OK, perhaps laying on a tropical beach somewhere will do it (at least for me), but you get the gist of it.

      Delete
  4. Beautiful! I've been to Washington state many times but always the Seattle area. I'll have to implore my good friends to set us out on a day trip to the park. This was a treat and your photographs of the flora and fauna were wonderful.
    xo,
    Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Karen, I am pleased to learn that you enjoyed the photographs of the park. Seattle is about an hour's drive from Mount Rainier so I think your suggestion of getting your friends on-board for a day trip is an excellent one. The park is even more spectacular and dramatic in person, as you shall see on your visit.

      Delete
  5. Dear CD

    On hearing the news of the earthquake this morning I immediately thought of you. Hoping that you and yours are okay. My heartfelt sympathies go to those who have been affected.

    Best wishes

    Spud.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, dear Spud. It was quite a rattler that woke the household up at 3.20 am this morning. We are fortunate that this jolt did not cause any damage to our immediate area, although the wine country, which we love so much, was definitely affected.

      Delete
    2. Thank you for letting us know that you are okay. Initial reports here (Australia) suggested significant casualties and deaths - pleased to learn that's since been revised.

      I've been enjoying your travel snaps and commentary..

      Spud.

      Delete
    3. Spud, I recall in 1989 when I was still living in London, hearing about the earthquake in San Francisco and reports that practically the entire city was down. Since moving here, I realized that although things were rather bad in the immediate aftermath, it was nothing like the news reports were stating.

      Happy to read you've been enjoying my travelogue.

      Delete
  6. You have, once again, taken the most beautiful pictures. And what a breathtaking place! Clean air, clear lakes tall trees. Oh I would love to go on a hike out there and wander around the trunks of thousand year old trees. And I had no idea Mt Ranier was so menacing. I remember when Mt St.Helens erupted because the playground at my school was covered in ash-all the way in MA.
    Your daughter is absolutely correct- that plant is very Seussian and wonderful.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Bebe, thank you. I hope my amateurish attempt at photography has captured a fraction of how breathtakingly gorgeous the area is. I must tell you though, there is nothing quite like seeing the park firsthand.

      How interesting to learn that the ash of of Mount St. Helens had traveled so far across the country. Can you just imagine if Mount Rainier decided to put on a show? I shudder to think at the consequences.

      Delete
  7. Hello,

    We have been completely captivated by this post and your truly remarkable photographs. You have captured wonderfully well that feeling which you also express so aptly of feeling incredibly insignificant when surrounded and enveloped by the majesty of the Natural World.

    As you say, in these days of development areas which are truly wild are decreasing at an alarming ratel so, it is very comforting to know that at least some efforts are being made in some corners of the world to preserve them for future generations to appreciate and enjoy.

    And, how very fortunate you were to have such a knowledgeable guide. In all things it makes such a difference to the whole experience to have someone with a great passion and command for their subject with you as a guide. It helps one to see rather than merely look. Thom sounds to be a National Treasure.....to be protected and cherished too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jane and Lance,

      As much as I love the architecture of grand cities, Mother Nature and her creations trump them all.

      It was a true privilege to walk beneath the canopy of an ancient forest knowing that it will be protected for those wishing to do the same in future, and yes, Thom is a real treasure.

      Delete
  8. I am catching up on my reading, and this is a very good way to start. Quite exquisite scenery, (the one of Mount Rainier so very reminiscent of an Alpine view). These breaks in such natural beauty are so very welcome, and I found our surroundings in dear old Scotland to be very helpful on our recent visit, and I have no doubt they will provide the same antidote on our return very shortly. (Unlikely we shall have such stunning sunshine and blue-blue skies, however!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Recharging one's batteries with a grand walk amidst Mother Nature's splendor is a must for me. I'm torn between city and country life (raised in both London and Kent). I cannot have one without the other.

      America does a beautiful job of preserving these vase open areas of natural beauty, thank goodness. I can only imagine these parks may have become something altogether different had they not been set aside for our enjoyment.

      Delete

Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...