Sunday, October 23, 2016

A Visit To The Legion of Honor to View The Brothers Le Nain Exhibition

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus

Last month while perusing the web site of The Legion of Honor - which happens to be my favorite fine art museum in San Francisco for reasons I shall return to later in this post -  I noticed an upcoming exhibition that piqued my interest.  The exhibition focused on the paintings of the brothers Le Nain. Who I wondered, were these brothers, and what masterpieces had they painted? A rudimentary web search revealed that the works of Antoine, Louis, and Mathieu were a bit of a mystery.  No one, it seemed, could identify with certainty which piece of their oeuvre had been painted by which brother.

This peculiar discovery led me to procure two opening day tickets to what turned out to be a most enjoyable experience.  How could it not have been?  We were, after all, going to a museum so beautiful that it is a work of art in itself.  And, to top it off, my husband and I we were visiting on a sparkling warm autumn day with not a whisper of lingering fog to be seen anywhere.

Chronica Domus
This must be the most spectacular setting of any museum I've had the pleasure of visiting, with views of the Pacific Ocean spilling into the San Francisco Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge off into the distance
Photo: Chronica Domus


This was also a day of optimal flying conditions if one happened to be piloting an F/A-18 Hornet jet.

Chronica Domus
Well, it was Fleet Week after all, and the Blue Angels were performing their annual areal gymnastics to the delight of onlookers across the city
Photo: Chronica Domus


The majestic scenery is just one of the reasons this happens to be my favorite art museum in the city. The classical decorative architecture is another.  Built in the Beaux-Arts style, the building is a three-quarter scaled rendition of the Palais de la Légion d'Honneur in Paris, and was a gift to the city by the sugar magnate Adolph B. Spreckels and his wife Alma.  Now, tell me, does not this spectacular entrance announce that one is about to arrive somewhere very special indeed?

Chronica Domus
Now this is an entrance befitting a world-class art museum, would you not agree?
Photo: Chronica Domus

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


What a contrast to the abysmal copper-clad monstrosity of the de Young Museum, which I wrote about, here.

Part of the opening day celebrations for the exhibition included a live performance of seventeenth century classical music by Seismic Strings.  The music gloriously poured into the entry hall from the nearby gallery where is was being played and set the mood for what was to come.

Chronica Domus
An impressive autumnal arrangement of foliage and seedpods decorate the entry to the gallery that was set up for a performance of live music
Photo: Chronica Domus


Following the concert, we decided it was probably a good idea to eat a late lunch before we headed downstairs to the exhibition. The Legion of Honor has an outstanding café which serves tempting and delicious hot entrées and snacks to sustain hungry museum goers.  This serene room overlooks the beautiful alfresco dining area that was a popular spot on the day we visited.  What a marvelous place for a relaxing breather and a bite to eat.

Now, onto the main event.  We descended the elegant marble-clad stairwell to the Rosekrans Galleries, wherein the exhibition was staged.  You'll notice when you visit the Legion of Honor that navigating the beautiful galleries is a breeze.  Everything is logically ordered and there is no fear of accidentally walking into a dead corner of an awkwardly designed space, which is often an unfortunate consequence of visiting the newly rebuilt de Young Museum.  But, let's return to the brothers Le Nain.

Chronica Domus
'Three Men and a Boy' circa 1640-1645 is believed to be an unfinished portrait of the brothers Le Nain likely painted by Mathieu, the central figure - interestingly, a cleaning to remove unoriginal paint in 1968 revealed the figure and color patches to the right of the painting 
Photo: Chronica Domus


The curators of this exhibition did a wonderful job of gathering more than forty of the brothers' works from museums and places of worship across England, France, and the United States.  Included is an altarpiece from Notre-Dame cathedral in Paris being exhibited for the first time in this country. It is one of the brothers' most important ecclesiastical works.


Chronica Domus
'St. Michael Dedicating His Arms to the Virgin', circa 1638 is being shown in the United States for the first time - if only we knew which of the three talented brothers had painted it
Photo: Chronica Domus  


Much investigative work by the conservators of this exhibition was carried out in an attempt to understand the techniques, brushwork, and modeling approaches used by the individual artists in determining who painted what.  As Antoine, Louis, and Mathieu all shared a studio and signed their works 'Le Nain', it was determined that some techniques were specific to only one brother, while others were used more generally by all three.  How frustrating it must be for all concerned to conclude that the mystery of which brother painted what work of art has yet to be conclusively proved.  

Although there were many other religious works on display, I was more drawn to the allegorical paintings.  'Allegory of Victory', which usually resides in The Louvre Museum, is one that I found particularly arresting.  The dramatic composition and scale immediately affixes the viewer's gaze, or at least it did mine.  I lingered upon it for what seemed like an eternity.  Not only is the subject matter transfixing, but the restrained and deliberately subdued color palette is masterful.  It simply took my breath away.  The winged and helmeted woman stands victorious over what is believed to be an allegorical figure of Deceit, Rebellion, or Intrigue. Oh, how I would love to hang this in my drawing room.

Chronica Domus
'Allegory of Victory' circa 1635, is believed to have been painted by Mathieu Le Nain and was my favorite painting of the exhibition
Photo: Chronica Domus


Another of the brothers' works I enjoyed viewing was 'Bacchus and Ariadne' which usually resides at the Musée de Beaux-Arts in Orléans, France.  The luminous quality of both Ariadne and Bacchus in contrast to the oarsmen is sublimely beautiful.  I only wish my dismal photograph could do this masterpiece justice but alas, there is nothing quite like seeing this artwork in person.


'Bacchus and Ariadne', circa 1635, is supremely beautiful in both composition and tonality
Photo: Chronica Domus


Aside from the religious and allegorical subjects on display, the brothers heavily focused their attentions on capturing scenes of everyday peasant life and the ills of poverty.

Chronica Domus
'The Resting Horseman', circa 1640, depicts a tenant farmer and his family, a subject often painted 
 by the brothers judging by the many works included in this exhibition
Photo: Chronica Domus 


If you happen to have a few hours to spare while visiting San Francisco, and would enjoy viewing this intriguing exhibition and learning about the fascinating clues unearthed when attempting to solve the puzzle of which brother painted which work of art, I urge you to come to The Legion of Honor. The Brothers Le Nain exhibition runs through January 29, 2017 so you have a few months ahead of you to plan accordingly.  And, if this happens to be your first visit, you'll be in for a real treat.  There are many other treasures in store to insure your time at this fine arts museum will be memorable.

20 comments:

  1. I love a museum outing like you - it's so nice to walk around in a spacious building looking at pretty things. I don't know if I could live in a city with no museums...

    The art is lovely but to my eye they seem rather aggressively restored. But then I suppose if you are going to have to interfere with the canvas you might as well give it a good clean? I like the look though bc the patina is a cross of really old and new but comes off its own sheen.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Naomi,

      I don't think I could live anywhere so remote as to not have access to a good art museum. I blame my parents who dragged us children to so many great museums during our childhood (in the UK, Europe, and the United States). It has become a life-long passion to continue to visit and something I hope to pass along to my own daughter.

      I'm not certain how much restoration the Le Nain works received but I did notice the colors were quite vivid on some of the allegorical and religious paintings that it was quite startling to view. Saying that, I've seen many other works of art from the 1600's that are equally as vivid (lots in your neck of the woods at the National Gallery), so I always put it down to the choice in paint colors and the fact that these works have been displayed in buildings that appreciated and cared for them.

      Delete
  2. One of my favorite museums anywhere, I don't visit SF without a stop in. If I lived nearby I suspect I would be paying monthly visits!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello AD,

      Why am I not surprised this would be one of your favorites too! Next time you visit, do let me know. Nothing better than touring a museum with like-minded friends.

      Delete
  3. We love the Legion of Honor and visit whenever we happen to be in the Bay Area. I have a collapsible umbrella in a blue toile pattern that came from the gift shop. It was my favorite rain accessory until splurging on a James Smith and Sons umbrella. I, too am unfamiliar with les Freres Le Nain, although I was an art history major. I see the exhibit started at the Kimball Museum in Ft. Worth TX. It would be lovely if it migrated to the east coast after leaving San Francisco.
    Best,
    KL Gaylin

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello KL Gaylin,

      How interesting that as an art history major the brothers Le Nain are unfamiliar to you. When I discovered where these paintings are usually exhibited (the V & A in London, The Louvre in Paris etc.), I'm certain I must have seen at least some of them on display as some point but, as you know, there are so many excellent pieces of art in these places, the Le Nain works probably got lost in all the gorgeousness. They really needed an exhibition of their own to shine.

      So happy to read that you splurged on the umbrella. Did you get one with an animal head for the handle? I just pulled mine out last weekend to greet the first rain of the season. It was a delight to use.

      Delete
    2. Blue parrot handle. I needed an umbrella I would not forget in a taxi...something I have done all too frequently with small collapsible umbrellas! KLG

      Delete
    3. Oh, what fun, a blue parrot! Yes, I know the feeling all too well of misplacing one's umbrella. Already lost my first James Smith & Son (on a train I believe), but I'm not planning on doing that again, if I can help it!

      Delete
  4. What a beautiful museum and wonderful exhibit. Looks like a picture-perfect day in the bay area.
    Thank you for sharing.
    Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Karen,

      If you ever make it to San Francisco, do please give this museum a spin not just for the artworks on display, but because it sits in a wonderful park (Lincoln Park) with the most amazing views of the bay and hills beyond. Heaven!

      Delete
  5. Hello CD, What perfect timing with your beautiful Le Nain paintings. I have lately been on a 17th century kick, reading Dryden and other 17th century/Restoration authors, although mainly from England. These paintings are the perfect counterpart to illustrate what I have been reading.

    And what a gem the Legion of Honor is. I am afraid to go back to the De Young, because the last time I was there it was still the old building.
    --Jim

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jim,

      Gosh, that does sound like perfect timing. You should see the catalog that accompanies this exhibition. It is nothing short of a tome and very impressive in its contents.

      Do be afraid of the new de Young, but that is just my opinion, of course. I'm sure there are many others that appreciate its oddball aesthetic.

      Delete
  6. What a stunning space. Thank you for taking us inside. xo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jen Lawrence,

      It is certainly that, and more. A not-to-be-missed museum for anyone visiting our fair city.

      Delete
  7. Interesting post CD on many levels. The Brothers Le Nain work but even more so why they didn't distinguish who did what. Even among twins I've found that very seldom are gifts evenly distributed with the 'chosen' one getting the Lion's Share while also apportioned a more robust ego negating any inclination to share the spoils. I'd also be interested in knowing which brother(s) left-handed as da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Rembrandt were as he'd be my primary suspect as pick of the litter.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello GSL,

      Ah, you may have a case here with the sinistral trait. Would be fascinating to discover if any of the brothers were indeed lefties.

      Painting was very much a family business if you look back in history. The Bellini family of Venice for example, or closer to home, the talented Peale father and sons.

      Delete
  8. It is a wonderful place and building. The exhibit, less my cup of tea. But the setting is, I agree, one of my favorite spots.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Lisa,

      Although a lot of the subject matter is nothing I'd choose to display in my own humble abode, every piece was masterfully executed, something I very much appreciate. The art of fine painting is, alas, a lost art.

      Delete
  9. There's just something so surreally DIFFERENT about an afternoon at a museum, so oddly separated from the everday. The air is different, the light has a series of other slants, and colours take on a glow of perfection lent only to flowers.

    Just the walking on those echoing floors, with quiet reflection the order of the day, and church voices only, in discussion of the pieces on view. Even the temperature seems like none we can achieve anywhere else---between cool and dry, but not-too, and the scent of paint a mere whisper in the air.

    I've so enjoyed looking at these; I went looking for the VICTORY one, for it intrigued me, with its ripe shapes and vulnerable people clad only in wisps. I wondered if she were raising him from the dead, as well, on first look, or trying to heal him, for the hand posture is the timeless gesture of offering her breast to an infant.

    I do love to speculate, and I get carried away so close to bedtime.

    Thanks for sharing this lovely jaunt into worlds I'll never see. And I love your perspective on things.

    rachel

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello racheld,

      I adore your comment because although you've (yet) to step foot into this wonderful museum, I felt you were there with me. You so eloquently summed up exactly what if feels to walk the galleries of such places, from the temperature to the sounds.

      So pleased you liked my favorite painting of the exhibit. It is sublime and I could gaze upon it for eternity.

      Delete

Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...