Wednesday, June 15, 2016

An Impromptu Visit to San Francisco's "Little Italy"

Chronica Domus
Columbus Avenue lies at the heart of North Beach
Photo: Chronica Domus


Last Sunday was one of those rare occasions that found us with no social obligation to fulfill. We arose late, bleary eyed from having spent the previous evening at home with friends enjoying refreshing cucumber gimlet cocktails (it was, after all World Gin Day, and we simply could not let that slip by without a nod to Mother's Ruin, could we?).  The house was clean and orderly, our "to do" list had been checked off, and Patience our daughter was away for the weekend visiting relatives. The gaping hole in our schedule was unfamiliar territory but, rather opportune as I discovered.

"Why not trot down to North Beach for a late lunch and an afternoon walk?" I said to my husband.  And so, we did.

North Beach is a vibrant historic neighborhood located at the northeasterly corner of the city.  The area was home to the Beat poets of the 1950's and 1960's and to large numbers of American Italian families.  North Beach is often referred to as "Little Italy" for reasons that will immediately become apparent upon landing on the main drag, Columbus Avenue.

Chock full of Italian delicatessens selling specialty ingredients for the home cook, pizzerias, restaurants, bakeries, and cafés, North Beach is undeniably Italian in flavor. It is also home to two of the city's largest Catholic churches.

We just happened to be walking by when we spotted this fellow dashing across the street to meet his friends for lunch:

Chronica Domus
A Capuchin friar takes his leave of the church of St. Francis of Assisi
Photo: Chronica Domus


If you look carefully at the following photograph, you will see a few canine companions accompanying their owners who are seated at the church steps.  St. Francis of Assisi was, after all, a friend to all animals.  A small ceremony to bless them had just concluded shortly before our arrival, which coincided with the Feast of Saint Anthony being celebrated by the friars.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Also unbeknownst to me when I suggested we hot foot it to lunch, was that our impromptu visit coincided with the annual North Beach Festival.  That explained why the place was positively humming with masses of locals and tourists alike.

Chronica Domus
People, people, everywhere!
Oh, and the Transamerica Pyramid rising from the foot of Columbus Avenue
Photo: Chronica Domus


Food and beverage stands were set up along the length of several blocks of the neighborhood, together with small stages that would showcase a variety of live entertainment. Every restaurant and café was seemingly packed to the rafters.

Chronica Domus
Are we ever going to find a place to eat?
Photo: Chronica Domus


Sidewalk tables were occupied as well, with diners enjoying both the hubbub and crystalline blue skies. There would be no summer fog to dampen anyone's spirits this day.

Chronica Domus
Ah, finally, a table at Rose Pistola awaits us
Photo: Chronica Domus


We sought sustenance and sanctuary in the soothing atmosphere of Rose Pistola, which was, thank goodness, situated away from the melee of festival attendees.  The food here is simply marvelous. Trattoria-like in its simplicity, fresh, and impeccably prepared.  In a word delizioso!

Too full for dessert (at least I was), we waddled across the road to Mara's Italian bakery where we stocked up on some pastries, Italian style, for later.

Chronica Domus
One could easily be forgiven for mistaking this scene for so many like it in Italy
Photo: Chronica Domus


The selection of sweet treats on offer at Mara's was almost overwhelming.  Cannoli, biscotti, torrone... the delectable list goes on and on.

A much needed walk was in order to jolt us out of our postprandial torpor.  Down the road and around Washington Square we went, passing even more Italian bakeries, if you can believe it, until we found Saints Peter and Paul church.

Chronica Domus
 The twin spires rise 191 feet into the sky (notice how diminutive the substantial Victorian house appears by comparison)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Once inside, we toured the impressive space, which boasts an altar made of snow-white Carrara marble and a copy of Michelangelo's sculpture Pieta.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Now that we've had a chance to play tourist, it was time to hop into the motor car and head home.

Chronica Domus
Up, up into the sky!
A typical view of what one sees when traveling along the famously steep roads of San Francisco 
(better be sure the breaks and clutch are in good order)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Ah, finally home, and look what we brought with us to enjoy later in the day with coffee.

Chronica Domus
These Sfogliatelle pastries are almost too good-looking to eat... almost!
Photo: Chronica Domus

I do hope you enjoyed tagging along with us on our impromptu visit to North Beach. If you too are San Francisco bound in the future, do please plan on visiting this vibrant neighborhood for a taste of old San Francisco.  Perhaps not on a busy festival weekend though.

26 comments:

  1. LOVE North Beach. Live too far away in Boston, although we have our own pretty good "Little Italy," the North End.

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    1. Hello CK, and welcome!

      I've not yet had the pleasure of visiting Boston, but will certainly put North End on my "must see" list, thank you.

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  2. I can't wait to explore more of North Beach the next time we are in San Francisco. Thanks for sharing and letting us know about Rose Pistola - I will put that on my list! Those pastries!!!

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    1. Hello slf,

      Oh, you won't be disappointed in North Beach as there is something interesting to see, do, or eat around every corner. In fact, I don't think you can go wrong at any of the restaurants there. There is even one that specializes in garlic, would you believe, The Stinking Rose, but it all gets a bit much when even the olives in martinis are replaced with a clove of garlic!

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  3. Aw, Shucks, Ma'am. Just a piddly little old afternoon stroll---to nowhere in particular. What a lovely walk, and I don't know if Cook's could have arranged it any better.

    All that within a gentle afternoon drive, and such a marvelous day.

    Simply perfect.

    says rachel, trying to get my brain around the sculpting of all those layers of pastry, hoping to figure it out before resorting to Google

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    Replies
    1. Hello racheld,

      You are not the only one doing brain gymnastics over the endless layers of filo dough. The filling in those divine works of art is composed of sweetened ricotta cheese with a hint of citrus, something I could not resist, otherwise I'd just stare at their architectural quality all day long. Do come back and let me know if you discover how they are made. Obviously with much skill and deft fingers, no doubt.

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  4. Hello CD, I have not yet been to SF's Little Italy--perhaps next trip. Cleveland also has a Little Italy section, near University Circle which its many attractions.

    I have a particular memory of the dense-but-smooth Italian lemon ice. The best source was an Italian bakery was out in the suburbs instead of Little Italy. This was on the way back from the park my brother and I frequented when we were growing up, and we often stopped by, covered with mud and carrying jars of newts and tadpoles, for some lemon ice.
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim,

      Adore the image of you covered in mud and carrying jars of tadpoles and newts, hankering for what must have been a refreshingly delicious lemon ice drink.

      I should look up a recipe and put my own lemons to work now that you've mentioned lemon ice.

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    2. Hi again, I am sure that you could make an equally delicious version of lemon ice, especially with your wonderful fresh lemons. I was told that the true Italian ice requires a special machine to give it its unique texture. --Jim

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    3. Ah, the Italian version you remember must have used some type of shaved ice, perhaps? You have me on a mad dash to find a lemon granita recipe with all this lemon talk. Sounds rather refreshing and wish I had some now.

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  5. A wonderful tour CD, although I wouldn't have been able to pass on dessert.
    Little Italy will be atop my next SF itinerary.

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    1. Hello GSL,

      So glad you enjoyed the tour and will place North Beach on your itinerary when you visit our fair city.

      I must admit, I did sample a teaspoon of my husband's dessert, which was out-of-this-world delicious (vanilla Panna Cotta with strawberries & balsamic - the best I've had!).

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  6. What a fabulous day (although World Gin Day sounds pretty spectacular too!)

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    1. Yes, Jen Lawrence, World Gin Day is always worth celebrating, especially when my fabulous husband makes his equally fabulous cucumber gimlets. Cheers!

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  7. Look at those layers of sfogliatelle!!! I love them - next time I must take you to tavola where they make them at the store which is one of the few places you can buy them fresh here that are authentic. I really do need to get over there and see all this in person once day - happy belated gin day to you

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    1. Hello Naomi,

      A trip to Tavola sounds perfectly perfect! Would love to see how these pastries are composed so expertly and deliciously. Oh, and yes, you do need to plan a trip out West. You shall be welcomed with open arms.

      Happy belated gin day to you too. I hope you did your best to celebrate (I know we did!).

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  8. Dear CD, Glad you like Rose Pistola as much as I do. Its marvelous fava bean specials when in season are treat. Every time I have eaten there it has been uniformly excellent.What a delightful Sunday In SF. Thanks for the delightful and delicious report.

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    1. Hello truth in fashion,

      Pleased to learn that your visits to Rose Pistola have been reliably delicious. I adore fava beans (trying to grow some in my garden this year), so must check out their specials, thank you.

      It was lovely to step into RP, far from the madding crowd, on what must surely have been the busiest day of the year in North Beach. What a time to visit!

      Thanks for stopping by today and for your comment.

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  9. I love Little Italy. And it's kind of fallen out of SF mindshare, but has never given up its spirit. Thanks for reminding everyone that it's a little gem.

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    1. I think you are right when you state North Beach has yet to give up its spirit, a rarity in our high-tech town. For that, I am grateful. And, of course for all the wonderful old eateries and small businesses that have been around for donkey's years.

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  10. This is one of my favorate areas of San Francisco, your photo's brought back so many wonderful memories of my trip to San Francisco. It looks like it was a beautiful bright day for your trip. The pastries look delicious.

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    1. Hello andrew1860,

      North Beach really is a hidden gem and with so much new construction popping up around the city these days, it is lovely to immerse oneself in old San Francisco.

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  11. CD,
    I love the day after entertaining at home, for just the reason you explain. The house is in order and the day feels free. What a wonderful way to spend it. It's been ages since I've visited that particular part of the city. I'll have to make sure we visit the next time we're up there...I love the cathedral, it feels like a bit of Italy to be sure.
    Enjoy the upcoming weekend.
    xo,
    Karen

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    Replies
    1. Hello Karen,

      Yes, do plan a visit to North Beach when in SF next. It is such a vibrant part of town, particularly in the evenings, and feels very European for the fact that people are all sitting outside at the cafes and restaurants. In this windy city, that is a rarity.

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  12. Oh my goodness - those pastries look delish! I love the spire on that church. It's so delicate and so highly ornamental. Loved tagging along with you in SF - I haven't visited since I was 9, so its been a long time, and my memories are hazy. Fisherman's wharf springs to mind, and a trolley car ride hanging out the sides as it trundled up and down the hills with a lovely Texan couple hanging onto my sisters and my belt loops as they were terrified we were going to fall out (my mother was fairly unconcerned!). I will have to get back... but in the meantime, thank you for the stroll! x

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    1. Hello Heidi,

      Thanks for the adorable vision of you and your sisters hanging off the side of a cable car, a quintessential tourist "must do". It is, however, such a great way of ascending Nob Hill. I once had to walk down it in heels (almost toppling head over foot), and only wished I was smart enough to hitch a ride on the cable car.

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