Friday, May 27, 2016

Last Call for The Oscar de la Renta Retrospective

Chronica Domus
Sarah Jessica Parker and Taylor Swift's 2014 Met Gala gowns form part of the marvelous Oscar de la Renta retrospective currently showing at San Francisco's
de Young Museum 
Photo: Chronica Domus


Nota bene: Please excuse the rather shoddy photographs that accompany this post. Flash photography, for obvious reasons, was prohibited.

My teenage daughter Patience finally convinced me to do something no other person has managed to accomplish since 2005.  She asked me to take her to the de Young Museum in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park to view the Oscar de la Renta world premier retrospective.  Now, let me get something off my chest before I return to the subject at hand.  I have had occasion to darken the doors of the newly constructed museum on just one occasion since it replaced the beautiful old building, which was sadly demolished. At that time, I experienced such an adverse reaction to the oppressive appearance of the new building's exterior, and dysfunctional interior space, that I vowed never to step foot inside the place again. Well, eleven years later, I find myself sharing this tale with you and reluctantly returning, all in the name of motherly love.  How's that for never saying never!

Despite my strong opinions of the museum's architecture, this really is a must-see retrospective. I suggest you too hot foot it into town for a gander before things wrap up in just a few short days (May 30th to be exact). Gazing upon one-hundred and thirty beautifully designed and constructed pieces of haute couture greatly eased my discomfort at having to return to this frightful building.  Frankly, just thinking about it sends shivers down my spine, and not in a good way either. Here is an example of what I mean ...

Chronica Domus
The grim museum tower looms ominously beyond the park's mature trees
Photo: Chronica Domus


... and, things only worsen as one approaches the building:

Chronica Domus
Am I about to enter an art museum (can I even find a doorway?), a futuristic copper-clad prison, or a reject from the set of Battlestar Gallactica?
Photo: Chronica Domus


Thank goodness the retrospective was tucked away downstairs in the Herbst Exhibition Galleries where one could ignore the disjointed space of the remainder of the museum with its odd little corners that lead you to, well ...nowhere. Oh how I miss the old grand entrance, the elegance of the building's architectural style, and the ease of flow through the galleries.

Photographed in 1925, the old de Young museum building received some updates during the 1940s but was sadly demolished to make way for the new discombobulated structure


Now that I've got that off my chest, we can return to the subject at hand, Mr. de la Renta's dreamy creations.  Patience and I were happily whisked away to the glamorous and rarefied world of high fashion, glitz, and feminine glamour as we meandered through the exhibition. André Leon Talley did an outstanding job of showcasing the designer's creations which are viewed in five themed galleries. Examples of  Mr. de la Renta's clothing spanned the entirety of his storied career, beginning in the early 1960's in New York  ...

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


... right the way through to his final Met Gala confections.

Chronica Domus
Nicki Minaj never looked so good as when dressed by Mr. de la Renta in a billowy green taffeta gown
Photo: Chronica Domus


The galleries were curated with an eye towards the designer's Spanish-influenced creations ...

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


... and his Russian phase, reflecting Konstantin Makovsky's painting, The Russian Bride's Attire  ...

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
An extraordinary custom wedding ensemble from 1985 in burgundy silk velvet and taffeta
Photo: Chronica Domus


Eastern cultures were also represented ...

Chronica Domus
Sable tail trimmed pants and a red silk crepe de chine tunic worn by the New York
socialite Nan Kempner 
Photo: Chronica Domus


A witty recreation of Vogue's December 2010 spread showcasing emerging models from Japan, South Korea, and China held center court in a gallery of its own to great dramatic effect.

Chronica Domus
 Photo: Chronica Domus


Below is the original published photograph taken by Steven Meisel, which was itself based on Cecil Beaton's 1948 photograph of dresses designed by Charles James.



Alas, all these visions of glorious sugarplum ballgowns made me hanker for an opportunity to dress to the nines in beguiling confections and dance the night away on the arm of a handsome stranger. Ah well, a girl can certainly dream; gardening attire is more my style nowadays.  The great outdoors inspired Mr. de la Renta in creating these glamorous floral themed dresses, presented here in a tranquil light-filled gallery complete with wall projections of inspiring luscious formal gardens.

Chronica Domus
Of course, my own gardening togs are not too dissimilar to these delightful gowns (notice the blue wheelbarrow in the background conveying the obvious hard graft performed by these elegant creatures)
Photo: Chronica Domus


What spurred my teenage daughter's interest in viewing this exhibition was her keen interest in learning about the fashion trends of the 1940s through the early 1960s.  She was particularly taken with the selection of gowns on display which demonstrate that great style was still achievable in the latter decades of the twentieth century and into the present day. Like many teenage girls, Patience is an adoring fan of the songstress Taylor Swift, who always displays her fashion credentials impeccably at splashy events.  I mention Miss Swift because below is a snap shot of the exquisite pink gown she wore to the 2014 Met Gala.  As you can see, Patience is one happy starstruck fashionista.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


And, as every good museum goer knows, one must always exit through the gift shop. Yesterday was no exception.

Chronica Domus
"Look mummy, it's Taylor in Oscar's dress"
Patience caught flipping through the Oscar de la Renta exhibition catalog and having her breath taken away by that dress, yet again!
Photo: Chronica Domus


If you find yourself in town this long holiday weekend, I encourage you to make plans to visit this marvelous show and discover why Oscar de la Renta is one of fashion's greatest icons.  I'm not sure where this exhibit will land next, but Bay Area residents and visitors alike have until Monday to feast their eyes on the most gorgeous works of wearable art created in fabric.

23 comments:

  1. That is just THE BEST mother/daughter outing. If I could get on a plane and over to SF, I'd be there in a heartbeat to examine all those beautiful gowns up close and in person.
    I have to say, I feel your pain on the museum demolition point. It seems that the dream of every Museum director is to demolish the old and make a 'statement' building where the openings are obscure, and the futuristic modern style of the building will draw the crowds in a la Ghery's Guggenheim. Unfortunately as is always the way this doesn't ever seem to pan out with the pale imitations created after the original...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh, how fun it would be to have had you and your daughter join in the fun of this outing. It really was worth the agro of returning to this hideous building. On a related note, I adore visiting the Palace of the Legion of Honor, our second fine arts museum in the city, and the best in my opinion. Both the collections and the building (based on the Hotel de Salme in Paris) are my ideal of what a good museum should be.

      Delete
  2. I do see what you mean about that building. Modern Brutalist...It looks ominous and sets an odd mood so see why you weren't keen to go. I like the setting of the V&A so even if I don't see anything I like to go and just sit in the courtyrad for instance but this place is a need to go basis!

    I do adore Oscar and how fun to do these outings with your daughter! She is going to have a very trained eye soon too :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've just realized that the architects of the frightful de Young are being considered for a design that will transform the London School of Economics in Lincolns Inn Fields. Sir John Soane will be turning in his grave. Not only that, they are also responsible for the just-about-to-open extension of the Tate Modern. Soon my home town will be transformed beyond recognition.

      Give me the V&A any day.

      Delete
  3. Bauhaus Bunker...hey didn't he do those charming Cold War missile silos in Nebraska?
    GSL is also a T-Swizzle fan...but did she also try your Patience with that discordant Met Gala note?
    Do tell.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hah, I almost wrote "until lately" when referring to Miss Swift's impeccable pedigree in the clothing department. I shall just ignore her latest choices and put it down to a brief "experimental phase", at least I hope it remains brief.

      Delete
  4. The Russian period! And the "gardening" dresses. Wonderful. As I'm not going to get there, I thank you especially for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was blown away by the Russian influenced gowns myself and went back for a second look at the two examples I photographed to include in this post. Both were exquisite in their details and so theatrical. I can only imagine how beguiling the bride in the red looked on her wedding day.

      Delete
  5. Thank you for sharing this delightful post as I'm not sure this exhibit will ever make it to Washington, D.C. Your photos are beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello slf,

      Frankly, I was surprised this particular exhibition's world premiere took place in San Francisco, not exactly a bastion of haute couture. Pleased that it did nonetheless.

      Delete
  6. What a wonderful way to spend a Spring afternoon, once you get past the drawbridge and portcullis of that glowering Keep.

    I love the flow and the cascade and the shussh of the silks and velvets, the glow of satin, with the dips and curves catching the light just so. All the colours and shades, the nips and tucks and odd little vanities arranged in strange configurations---I love all that, though I don't DO fashion, as such. My own teenage embonpoint and the definite, unapologetic curves of bust and hip occasioned many an embarrassed sigh from my Mother, as she conferred in whispers with the black-clad, low-shoed salesladies at Goldsmith's and Lowenstein's in hopes of somehow creating the wasp-waisted daughter she deserved. And to this day, I'm happiest in a T-shirt and shorts---cotton, please and thank you.

    I DID, however, learn a great appreciation for the trade and the creation and the sheer artistry of all that nipping and tucking very early. My dear Miss Kitty across the street, she of the four shouts-and-elbows sons, took in this wandering four-year-old and taught me TO READ, lending me incongruous stacks of Godey's and Harper's from her groaning bookshelves.

    They were "way behind the times," of course, having been purchased and consulted during her own dear Mama's coming-out and trousseau years, but to tell the truth, I feel that I can see some of those remembered lines and fabrics in your own photos.

    I've almost been swept away this moment to that dusty trek across the dry Summer grass to her front porch, feeling the gravel on my small bare feet, and standing immersed in the scent of the cat-pee evergreens encroaching on the door as I knocked.

    I'm all immersed in "back when" today, for I've been delving into some new (old) photos on Ancestry, trying to match faces and names of folks long gone, and also in the cut and paste of many, many pictures of our Sweetpea, for I'm doing her Mama a book of all the days we'vr shared this past eight years, while she was at work---little mentions from Lawn Tea and zillions of photos from her time with us.

    Must get back to it---deadline is midnight on Tuesday!!

    So glad you're back,

    r

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh racheld, I did so laugh at your description of achieving a perfect hip to waist ratio. As a daughter of a tailor, and one with not exactly model proportions, I can tell you miracles can be achieved with nips and tucks in strategic places. Almost any woman can feel like a million bucks with that sort of attention to fit being paid to her gown.

      Delete
  7. I received the following comment from a "faithful reader" that somehow landed in my email box and not the comment section of this blog:

    Thank you so much for your witty and insightful comments about the new deYoung. It’s dreadful in every way, yet was received with awe and praise by the art boobies.
    Am appalled by the sable tail decorated evening pants worn by Nan…what were Oscar and she thinking, except obvious opulence?

    Keep on.

    From a faithful reader, Anne

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Anne,

      I am delighted you share my views on the odious design of the new de Young museum. What were the decision makers of this carbuncle thinking when they selected what they deemed a suitable design for an art museum?

      Of course, I would never advocate the use of real fur, but the sable tail trimmed pants were quite exquisite in design. Faux fur all the way!

      Delete
  8. Thank you for sharing these images, CD. I'd be there in a heartbeat were it possible. Sounds like a lovely mother/daughter outing - despite the 'challenges'.

    Spud.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Spud,

      So pleased you enjoyed the snap shots included in this posting and hope it gave you a small taste of the wonderful range of gowns on display.

      Delete
  9. Hello CD, The last time I was at the de Young it was still in the old building, so you can see that it's been a while. I recall thinking how pleasant the museum was in its setting. I agree with you about the new building--it seems that architects are intent on publicity for themselves, rather than making the pleasantest possible experience for visitors.
    --Jim

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jim,

      So glad you managed to visit the old museum building before it was lost forever to the wrecking ball. As you say, it looked lovely in the surroundings of the park whereas the new building certainly does not.

      Please read the comment I made above to Coulda shoulda woulda listing the endangered building sites in London that will soon receive similar treatment to the de Young, sigh.

      Delete
  10. What beautiful dresses. Kudos to you making peace with architectural folly so you could attend this gorgeous show. I hate bad modernizations. Why can't people simply leave well enough alone!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jen Lawrence,

      I'm not sure about "making peace" but I was able to put on my big ol' horse blinkers long enough to make it through. And yes, well alone (with the necessary seismic upgrades) would have been good enough for me.

      Delete
  11. We modernize everything, then we beat it to Europe to look at the old stuff...go figure.

    CD, never say never again. It NEVER works out. I have had to eat my words on more than one occasion, including this year's presidential election. Now i'm stuck between a rock and a hard place and every day I fret about it. Anyway, tell your daughter I am glad she's wearing her pearl earrings. Very classy. I've worn mine everyday since heaven knows when. I feel naked without them.

    I'm so glad you had a nice outing with your daughter. Breaking a promise to yourself is well worth the time you both spent together and it will be one thing you never forget.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello lindaraxa,

      Yes, quite, about the Europe thing. Made me laugh, thank you!

      I shall follow your advice and never say never again and in all honesty, I'm glad I went as it meant so much to Miss Patience.

      I shall also pass along your kind compliments of her earring choice. My mother too has worn her pearls since as far back as I can remember. A classic choice indeed.

      Delete
    2. Lovely to have you drop in at LAWN TEA! I am no longer in the HOTTTT sunny South, for we moved to Indiana twenty-five years ago. It's absolutely perfect weather here the past few days, and we had a wonderfully cool patio dinner last night with all three of our girls. And we have not had a garden "to speak of" in probably eight years. The Farmers' markets and all the stands in parking lots are fabulous to behold, as are the find-the-signs-on-country roads for corn and tomatoes and pumpkins. Some of those are just tables out by the road, with a little cup or box to drop money in to pay for your produce.

      I have found some outstanding carrots in our favorite grocery: GRIMMWAY Farms, in a cellophane bag. They are quite long and very slender and oh, so tender and crisp raw, plus they are wonderful steamed whole, and so tender as to make them break apart when I drop in a knob of butter to melt and gently shake the pan. Whatever brand/variety/strain this is, I'd be planting it.

      Our book arrived on Monday, and we had a little dinner last night to present it to Sweetpea's Mama. I'd showed it to S. yesterday morning, and let her sign it (as we all did, for all four of us had a hand in all those activities and years that she was here every day). But I'd cautioned her not to tell Mama until the big reveal.

      After dessert she came into the house and fetched the package, bouncing up and down as Mama opened and unfurled from paper. Then at Mama's first gasp and smile, Sweetpea shouted to inform her, "It's a book of MEEEE!"

      Must go give my "yard crew" some lunch---it seems to be an expected part of the partnership of late (happily fostered by ME, of course). But OH, how it BRIGHTS me to see what they've accomplished!

      r

      Delete

Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...