Wednesday, February 3, 2016

From Antiquities to Dinner In A Former Motorcar Showroom

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus



Nota bene: Sadly, photography is not permitted inside Sir John Soane's museum.  I will, however, include a few unabashedly sneaky (and fuzzy) snaps that I managed to capture with some degree of trepidation and speed before being gently scolded, in the nicest possible way.  I hope that these images will provide my readers with an inkling of the spirit of this fascinating museum.

London is full of surprises and to Regency architecture enthusiasts like myself, the city is brimming with handsome examples.  I've already mentioned John Nash in my previous post, and his famous terraces and crescents, and his fine church, All Souls. However, this fair city has indeed been most fortunate, for it has reaped the riches of more than one stellar architect to help shape its appearance. Take, for example, Sir John Soane.

Chronica Domus
Sir John Soane by John Jackson, circa 1828


I have long admired Soane's work, whom many regard as England's greatest Neoclassical architect. Alarmingly, many of his creations have vanished through the short sightedness of demolition, all in the name of modernity. To most, their discovery of Soane probably comes as a result of visiting his extraordinary former residence at Lincoln's Inn Fields. This, of all of London's surprises, has captured my imagination and intrigued me like no other.  I know I am not alone in this.  One-hundred and twenty thousand visitors passed through the buildings' doors last year.  Mr. Soane's fascination with the ancient world, and his willingness to eschew the architectural conventions of the day in order to create beautiful and unique spaces, made him a true original and a pioneer in his field.  His clever use of roof lanterns, colored glass, and mirrors to illuminate the interiors of his buildings, is a common theme he relied upon throughout his career. I cannot truthfully tell you how many times I have had occasion to visit his former home, really an idiosyncratic hodgepodge of buildings (for there are three) because, frankly, I have lost count. What I can tell you is that with each visit, more and more of the house is revealed through the series of extensive restoration efforts undertaken by the trustees.

Chronica Domus
The entry door to the museum - one of four Gothic architectural fragments, seen at right, gives a clue to what surprises lay beyond the threshold
Photo: Chronica Domus


Never has the misfortune of a pair of renegade brothers been so advantageous to a nation such as befell Sir John Soane's sons, John and George.  You see, their father had the good foresight to bequeath his unique residence and substantial collections of antiquities, artworks, furniture, and architectural salvage, not to his wayward sons but to the British people.  This is why today the house is a museum, left mainly intact, just as Soane had wished it, for all to enjoy. The space is nothing short of captivating, and the curious labyrinth of rooms, which was constantly expanded and rebuilt during Soane's lifetime is, without doubt, unlike any other place I've ever stepped foot in.

My husband and I orchestrated our latest visit to coincide with an early afternoon tour of the restored private apartments and architectural model room, freshly opened to the public in May, 2015. We had allowed ample time to meander and wander around the numerous rooms of the museum and reacquaint ourselves with the staggering collections so uniquely and densely displayed.  The arrangement of objects, depending upon one's perspective, can either border on absolute madness or sheer brilliance. You decide.  Just take a gander at this corner of Soane's little study, located on the ground floor, just beyond his dressing room:

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


And this, a view looking up from the basement:

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Not an inch of the house escaped Soane's attention to detail and burgeoning collections. The following photograph shows the narrow passageway between his bookcases and the front three upstairs windows of the south drawing room.  This is the most formal room in the house, which also served as the principle reception room.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


The following photograph shows the ceiling treatment, reminiscent of a starfish, used in the airy breakfast room of Number 12.  Surely, a favorite motif of Soane's because he decorated the library ceiling of his country house, Pitzanger Manor, in much the same fashion.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


The entire museum is dimly lit, which is especially noticeable on an overcast winter's day where natural light is at its lowest and struggles to find a way in.  Electrical lighting is kept to a bare minimum, a conscious decision by the museum, so visitors can best experience how Soane lived. One will occasionally notice glass storm bowls lit with the aid of a single candle. To be more accurate, the wax candles I recall from prior visits have, sadly, disappeared, only to be replaced by those battery operated flickering impostors.  I wonder if Mr. Soane would have approved.

Chronica Domus
A corner of the basement crypt lit by modern battery operated candles
Photo: Chronica Domus


Our group of ten was escorted up to the second floor of Number 13.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


We gathered on the landing and listened to the knowledgeable guide talk about Soane's private life and how he used the floor not only for his living quarters, but also as a show piece for prospective clients.

The many watercolor drawings of the private apartments, still in existence, aided the museum in their restoration of the rooms, which had, since Soane's death, been altered by the live-in curator of the museum.  Nothing was left to interpretation.  If evidence was lacking on the manner in which an area should be restored (such as with the closet in Mrs. Soane's morning room that was used for washing), it was left undisturbed.

Chronica Domus
Joseph Gandy's watercolor of Soane's bathroom, circa 1825

What struck me about this portion of the house, hidden behind iron railings, was how different in appearance it was to the downstairs areas.  This was all so cozy.  I am certain that the bold diaper patterned wallpaper employed in each of the private rooms, a departure from the painted plaster walls elsewhere in the house, had much to do with this.  Our guide explained that during the two year research period of the restoration project, wallpaper was unearthed beneath layers of paint in the room that Soane had used as his bathroom.  The discovery provided more than enough evidence to determine the paper's pattern, a small repeating geometrical motif.  Alas, the only mystery remaining was the true colorway which had altered considerably in the ensuing years since its installation, by way of age and fading.  A search of the archives at the Victoria and Albert Museum provided a record of Sir John's wallpaper purchase from Cowtan & Son. Not only that, but a small wallpaper sample had been safely squirreled away from the damaging effects of daylight.  This provided the museum with an exact color match which was faithfully and meticulously reproduced through hand blocking by Adelphi Paper Hangings in New York, makers of historic wallpaper.  

Chronica Domus
An image of the Cowtan & Son wallpaper order book showing a sample of Soane's wallpaper order from August 11, 1830


The first room our group was escorted into was Mrs. Soane's morning room, the most personal space in the entire house.  It is decorated exactly as Mrs. Soane had left it, with the addition of a few paintings that Sir John added after her death.  One of these is a watercolor by Clara Maria Pope depicting Shakespeare and every flower mentioned in his works.  Even in such an intimate space, Sir John's influence abounds.  The arrangement of the artwork and the convex looking glasses strongly suggest that he had a dominant hand in the decoration.  On the mahogany mirrored panel door, which leads to the model room, hangs yet another convex mirror, a trick Soane relied heavily upon in his work to maximize natural light. This room was not only used to receive Mrs. Soane's guests, but also as a place from which to run the household.  Meetings with the housekeeper to discuss menus and to communicate Mrs. Soane's instructions was a daily activity in the morning room.

Chronica Domus
Watercolor of Soane's model room by C.J. Richardson, circa 1834


A few years before Sir John's death, he converted Mrs. Soane's bedroom into a spectacular showpiece, the model room.  This was my favorite room of the tour.  I believe this had everything to do with the fact that there was absolutely no doubt as to it's creator.  All the hallmarks of Mr. Soane's interests and curiosities with the ancient world and its buildings blissfully collided in a delicious melange within the room. Upon the wallpapered walls hang architectural watercolors by Joseph M. Gandy, some depicting Soane's own designs.  Central to the room sits a magnificent mahogany and brass display stand, commissioned by Soane in 1826.  The multi-layered structure holds various architectural models constructed  of wood, plaster, metal, and cork.  At one point in the museum's history, the curator deemed the stand too large and, shockingly, had it cut down to half its size.  For the restoration of the model room, the missing section was skillfully recreated to match that of the original.  Soane's idea behind the model room was to provide a "grand tour" experience for architectural students that were themselves unable to travel to Europe and visit such sites as Pompeii and the ancient temples of Italy and Greece.  Some of the models on the stand illustrate Soane's designs, thereby encouraging comparison and discussion among his students with those of both the ancient world and works by Soane's contemporaries.  Sir John relied heavily on models during his career, something other English architects were slow to adopt.  No wonder the museum is awash in them; there are over one-hundred in residence.

Chronica Domus
Another watercolor by Joseph Gandy showing Sir John's bedroom, circa 1825


Soane's bedroom was the final room we toured of the private apartments.  Following his death, the four-poster bed had been sold by the trustees, but a reproduction was specially commissioned for the purpose of the restoration project.

At the conclusion of the tour, one passes through the book passage and notices an unusual display case containing the mummified remains of a rat and two cats.  Our guide explained that these poor creatures were found within the walls of a demolition project that Soane had undertaken during his work at the Bank of England, the subject of a future posting on this blog.

Having had the privilege of viewing Soane's private apartments after many years of familiarizing myself with the public rooms downstairs, I felt as though I understood the man a little better for it. Sir John obviously had a great passion for architecture and learning that went far beyond mere vocation. Yes, the private apartments were certainly more domesticated in appearance, and decidedly more cozy than the lower floors, but here, all around, was evidence of a man who could not be separated from his passions, even in the way he lived privately.

Touring the private apartments and model room was the highlight of our visit to London, and one that I would encourage you to experience firsthand as well if you are as fortunate as I to find yourself in London.  Please do check the museum's web site for specific tour times to avoid disappointment.  I eagerly anticipate my next visit as the restoration project progresses into its final phase.

Chronica Domus
We exit through another door, Number 14, painted a beautiful shade of bronze green and embellished with imitation bronze nail heads to mimic those found on ancient tomb doors
Photo: Chronica Domus


The excitement of our day was not quite over.  We had scored a table a deux at our beloved favorite London restaurant later in the evening so returned home to dress for dinner.

Chronica Domus
The Wolseley is located in St. James' along Piccadilly
Photo: Chronica Domus


The Wolseley is one of those surprises I spoke of earlier in this posting.  You see the elegant space currently occupied by the restaurant was once the very glamorous car showroom of The Wolseley Motor Company.

Chronica Domus
An image of the showroom in the early 1920's


Although both the motorcars and the company have long disappeared, not much has changed since the showroom was opened at the beginning of the glitzy Roaring Twenties.  One truly feels as though one has taken a step back in time upon entering this lovely building.  Designed by architect William Curtis Green, the space possesses a graphic black and white marble floor, towering black lacquered columns, staircases, industrial looking chandeliers, and sweeping arches to full dramatic effect. Simply put, dining at The Wolseley is a grand sensory treat.

Chronica Domus
Thankfully, the main dining hall of The Wolseley has barely changed since its conversion from a motorcar showroom in 1921
Photo: Chronica Domus


We've enjoyed both lunch and dinner here over the years, and would highly recommend either. Apparently, breakfast is not too shabby either.  We have found the service to be top-notch and professional, and the food fresh and delicious.  I would best describe the fare as a combination of traditional British with more than a dash of grand European café.  The atmosphere is always abuzz with excitement as patrons tuck into their meals. People watching, of course, is always a fun pursuit here.  One never knows with whom one might rub shoulders.

Chronica Domus
One day I shall score a table upstairs in this dramatic dining alcove, but first I'll have to invite some friends because, according to our waitress, only larger parties are seated here
Photo: Chronica Domus


Legging it to the tube station to catch our late-night train home, we passed this exotic and opulent display of lights on Bond Street.  This was all rather fitting, I thought, for Bond Street is home to some of the world's most exclusive and luxurious consumer goods.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


I do hope you've enjoyed this rather wordy post on two of my favorite spaces and places to visit in London.  Perhaps you'll put them on your list of "must sees" the next time you find yourself in town.

 Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

20 comments:

  1. I'm glad you managed the private tour of the upstairs apartments, about which I wrote following our own visit in August 2015. Well worth it, as you so eruditely describe, including all the detail and anecdotes that I now recall from reading your post. Whilst I appreciate the determination to authenticity of C19th lighting, (none during the day), our minds these days are more used to the full-on glare provided by today's technology, (especially if subtly and effectively exposed with pinpoint accuracy), but in the interests of fire safety, the battery operated candles are quite understandable. I use them here for decoration under candle lampshades on the dining table, when we're not actually eating at the table, so they are not buffeted by the aircon, and I don't have to worry about the wax coating the silver candlesticks, or of any unforeseen calamities.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello columnist,

      So very kind that you described my post as erudite for I sometimes wonder if I'm babbling on a bit during these wordy posts. However, I really think if one is to write about such a splendid and unique house museum, it is worth pointing out more than a few of the idiosyncratic details that make a visit worthwhile.

      With regards to the battery-operated candles, I actually think they look rather convincing in private settings, and have considered buying a couple of the pillars for a pair of early 19th century glass storm bowls I own. I'm afraid to place the real thing in them for I envision not only a nice little mess that will require a good deal of elbow grease to remove, but I also fear that the flames will extinguish the oxygen needed to burn rather quickly as these glass vessels also come with lids that fit snugly atop the bowls. Within the museum, I thought they looked a little phony, especially as everything else around looked so authentic. Now you have me wondering if the monthly evening candlelit tours utilize them too.

      Delete
  2. The wolseley does the best croque Madame but their kedgeree is inconsistent:)
    I do love the soane though I don't go as often BC it's often booked out and with good reason too. It's the favourite of many museum lovers and I agree that there are places that you unearth more and more each time you revisit. I must go this year as this post serves as a reminder for me to uncover another layer too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Naomi, regarding your Kedgeree experience at The Wolseley, I wonder if it has to do with the fact that Kedgeree is the type of dish where "anything goes" in terms of tossing in whatever is on hand so is very open to interpretation as far as spices and herbs are concerned? I recently listened to an excellent Radio 4 program by Marguerite Patten (Century of British Cooking), where she basically said the same thing. In her version, she even added fried onion rings atop the rice.

      Do visit Sir John Soane's museum when you get the opportunity, and go in the morning, as there are hardly any queues. A rainy day also keeps the crowds at bay (in my experience). So worth the tour of the private apartments too.

      Delete
  3. Hello CD, You are right--the Soane is definitely worth as many return visits as can be managed. My favorite objects there (so far!) are the sarcophagus of Seti I and the Hogarth paintings of The Rake's Progress. The best part though, as you suggest, is really the total effect.

    I also love Bond street (and area), mainly attracted by the art and antiquities galleries. I have found them all to be very courteous and visitor-friendly, even if it seems obvious that I will buy no museum-pieces that day. I am still on several of their mailing lists, announcing bargains for 10,000 or so pounds, but the good stuff is always P.O.R.--Price on Request.
    --Jim

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jim,

      I think a lifetime of visits to this intriguing museum would not be enough to absorb every gripping detail of the place. There was so much more we saw (the current exhibitions, for example) that one could spend hours absorbing. The sarcophagus and Hogarth's paintings are particular favorites of mine too. The story behind the acquisition of the enormous, and heavy, sarcophagus is particularly interesting, and I think its location in the museum is breathtakingly dramatic. It makes the British Museum's placement of their numerous sarcophagi so sterile when compared to the drama of Soane's brilliant arrangement. Same goes for Hogarth's paintings. Their viewing is akin to peeling back layers of an onion.

      Delete
  4. My husband and I are going to London for 10 days in May. The Soane has been big on my list (just finished reading a book about it). Thanks for the virtual tour. Hope you don't get "caught". Of course, loving all of your "native daughter" insights!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello home before dark,

      Oh, I just know you'll be as bowled over by The Soane as I am each time I step foot inside the place. The web site is not particularly clear with regards to the tour of the private apartments so if you wish to see that area of the house (and who wouldn't), I suggest you visit on a Tuesday, early, and get your name on the 1 pm tour for there are only ten spots available. Also, it is a free tour, and when reading the web site one might presume there is a fee.

      Feel free to email me if you require any other suggestions for your upcoming trip. May is a lovely time to visit London.

      Delete
  5. What a fabulous space! Thank you for the vicarious tour. Love those lights on Bond. There is something fabulous about peacock feathers: they are so unapologetically flashy.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jen,

      I think you've hit the nail on the head with regards to those fanciful peacock feathers; so suitable for the retailers and clientele of Bond Street.

      The museum is indeed a fabulous space that continues to inspire and delight visitors today as much as it did in Soane's day.

      Delete
  6. Well, wordy and wonderful, I'd say! I've only been to Sir John Soane's House once and what you have written convinces me that I need to go again.
    One thing that struck me there was found in the bookcases - so many little papers that served as bookmarks were left among the pages of such a quantity of books. It felt so personal and made the books so lively...as if they were saying, "Sir John was here!" Naturally, I'd love to see the private spaces now on view. It is too bad about the fake candles these days but I guess they are safer and they do make them better than they used to.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, gésbi. I don't think any amount of words or my amateurish description of Soane's house museum could do it enough justice. A visit, or multiple, is in order.

      Your observation of the paper bookmarks is wonderful, and as you say, a very personal touch indeed. Can you imagine the care those fragile books require to preserve them for posterity?

      Delete
  7. CD,
    What a wonderful and informative post. I'm sorry they wouldn't allow pictures. I would have loved to see more in detail, the kind you always provide us with. Still, all the more reason for me to add this to my list for my next visit.
    Enjoy your weekend.
    Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Karen,

      The few images I managed to snap do not come even close to capturing the magic of the museum.

      Enjoy your weekend too Karen.

      Delete
  8. What a daring Adventuress you are---braving all that tradition and flouting the caveats in your surreptitious sneaking of Soane's secret stashes! And what a revelation it is---I've been trying for two days to imagine stumbling from bed into that two-sofa bathroom (who on earth would join you there?---surely not a friend for a cozy chat as you sat to dry your toes, nor would any valet worth his shoe-polish ever sit to await The Master's emerging from the bath). And to have all those remnants and shards and beautiful bits of uncountable, unimaginable tombs and chapels and buildings-gone-to-dust, just a-hanging in nooks and crannies all down the halls and behind the doors, like common old snapshots---can you feature such riches?

    And the orders of the day---"See that Mattie dusts the Venetian Cornices by hand today: that Swiffer thing just won't cut it." The soar of those walls, the perspective of your purloined pictures, the curves and angles and each souvenir and find placed just so---what a tour, and no wonder you go back and back.

    Thank you for sharing such a magical marvel of such a collection and the grand setting housing it.

    rachel---off to make dips and guacamoles and crab cakes and other snacky things for an afternoon of board games. Our version of an UnSuperBowl party, and everyone goes home in time for The Game. It's rumored to be Our Peyton's Grand Finale, win or lose. He's a wonderful, kind, totally GOOD man who just happens to be talented on the field, and we all wish him well.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello racheld,

      Yes, about those sneaky snaps, I felt a little like a naughty museum paparazzi, all for the benefit of my loyal readers' enjoyment.

      Those little bathroom seats are covered in black horsehair fabric and look quite striking against the colors of the wallpaper. At some point in Soane's life, he boarded up the bathtub and stashed a collection of items in it, with instructions for it to be opened several years down the road, rather like a time capsule. I think he enjoyed such tomfoolery as I believe the tour guide mentioned that when the tub was eventually opened, nothing of great importance was found inside. Now if only my failing brain could recall what exactly it was that was unearthed!

      Delete
  9. Just catching up, and enjoyed this post so much. I have a thing for the Grand Tour, and Architectural fragments, and so pictures and information on the Soane museum is always going to please me! I am definitely going to be going there next time I'm in London… and have been toying with doing my own rather small scale version of the architectural fragments in my house… the only problem is getting hold of them here (ancient stone fragments, or even their reproductions are not easy to find). Am so enjoying reading about your time in London x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Heidi,

      Well, we are kindred spirits as far as the Grand Tour thing goes. I just know that if I were a young man in the 19th Century, I too would have been off across Europe in search of antiquities. As for fragments, yes please! I too have found it almost impossible to get my hands on some at a reasonable price (and rarely do they show up around these parts), but I have managed to acquire (over many years) a small collection of plaster intaglios that were purchased as souvenirs on the Grand Tour.

      I think you'll really enjoy touring Soane's museum but watch out! Temptation is everywhere. I wanted to bring it all home.

      Delete
  10. What a lovely day you had. It has been years since I visited the Soane museum. I have a few more pics of inside on my post here if you want to take a peek (http://willowbrookpark.blogspot.com.au/2010/02/living-with-monuments-of-past.html).
    I haven't been to the Wolseley before though, despite walking past it a few times. I now have to put it on my to do list!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Lord Cowell,

      Just took a gander at your post and thoroughly enjoyed it, thank you. It is high time you visited the Soane for there have been many changes since your visit that I'm sure you'll enjoy viewing the next time you are in town.

      Make sure too that you book a table at The Wolseley in advance of your visit (drops ins are available too sometimes). You will not want to miss an opportunity to dine in such lovely surroundings.

      Delete

Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...