Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Blogoversary, A First

Chronica Domus
Just like Fred and Rita, I'm floating on a cloud


I never thought I'd actually reach my first anniversary of blogging, a blogoversary if you like, but I have, and I'm overjoyed.  In fact, I am floating on a cloud and happy to celebrate this joyous milestone with you today.  For it is all of you who have provided the encouragement and given me the opportunity to persevere with my scrawlings on life at home and away, writing on subjects as catholic as a humble flower pot, or the recreation of a Jeffersonian pea contest, or even replacing an ugly garage door or a night at the opera.

I feel humbled and grateful each and every time you take a moment from your busy day to generously bestow Chronica Domus with a comment, or share an interesting anecdote or a useful tidbit of information.  It really does enrich the entire blogging experience for myself and our little tribe of merry readers from around the globe. I've learned so much from you this past year, thank you. And, for those of you whom I've yet to meet due to your bashful disposition, I do encourage you to enter the fold and introduce yourself by leaving a comment, here today.  It would be so very nice to make your acquaintance, wherever you may lurk.

I recall the excitement and nervousness I felt upon casting my line blindly into the waters of the blogosphere, waiting patiently to see if or when I'd catch a bite.  Until then, I had only participated in blogs as a commenter.  Would anyone even be interested in reading my awkward scribblings, I wondered?  A few days after I published my inaugural post, I was over the moon at receiving my very first comment from none other than Reggie Darling, whom many of you know as one of the blogosphere's preeminent guiding lights, and the final word on elegant living and social comportment. I know Reggie has been sorely missed by many of late, and I do hope he will consider returning his hat to the ring, for it would be lovely to welcome him back. Perhaps I could lure him in with the promise of a couple more jars of homemade marmalade?

Hot on the heels of my first comment, I received my second, a warm welcome from Meg of Pigtown Design, a long-time luminary in the world of blogging.  Well, as you might imagine, I was chuffed to pieces.  The rest, as they say, is history.  I had no idea that Chronica Domus would see me connect with so many like-minded people, from all walks of life, scattered across so many countries.

As I enter my second year of blogging, I hope that natural curiosity in my surroundings, the people I share my life with, my travels both near and far, and my interactions with you, shall provide ample fodder toward another year of informative and engaging blog posts for your enjoyment and edification.

Won't you please continue along with me on my journey?  One never quite knows of what may be written next.

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Part III: A Founding Father's House In Harlem

Chronica Domus
A bust in the entry hall of The Grange portrays Alexander Hamilton as a Roman senator
Photo: Chronica Domus


Several years ago, while rummaging around the shelves of a second-hand book shop, I stumbled across a pristine hardbound copy of Houses of The Founding Fathers by author Hugh Howard.  The book contains lavish color photographs and information on the private residences and domestic lives of the men that founded The United States of America.  Of course, I snapped up the book with alacrity and have since spent many happy hours poring over each detail of the beautiful photographs and text contained within. In fact, I took so much pleasure in the book that it inspired me to go on a bit of a pilgrimage, attempting to visit as many of  the houses featured in the book as possible.

So far I've had the privilege of visiting George Washington's Mount Vernon, Thomas Jefferson's Monticello, a particular favorite of mine, and his second residence Poplar Forest, James Madison's Montpelier,  George Wythe's house in Williamsburg, Virginia, and most recently Alexander Hamilton's country house, The Grange, located in Harlem, New York.

Chronica Domus
The facade of Alexander Hamilton's house, The Grange, spoiled by the unsightly modern barrier at the foot of the front entrance which is closed off to the general public (Note to NPS: Please, please do consider installing a more aesthetically pleasing, period appropriate solution in keeping with the excellent restoration work achieved thus far, thank you)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Visitors gain access to The Grange via the doorway beneath the front stairs (notice the on-going repair work below the porch to the right)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Wait a minute, did she just say "country house", for isn't Harlem in the midst of one of the most crowded cities on the planet?  The Grange, designed by John McComb Junior, was indeed a country house, for when it was completed in 1802, Harlem was very much removed from the madding crowd and entirely rural.  Situated within Hamilton's thirty-two acre estate, The Grange would provide the type of gentlemanly country life to which Mr. Hamilton aspired, a life to be shared with his wife Elizabeth Schuyler Hamilton and their many children. Tragically, he would reside there for a mere two years before his untimely death by duel.

The Grange, which is the only house Alexander Hamilton ever built, has been moved twice in its history.  From 1802 until 1888, it stood at its original location near the center of Hamilton's property. Then, the house was moved to 141st and Convent Avenue, where it sat quite unceremoniously wedged between an apartment building and a church.  It was not until 2008 that the National Park Service moved it to its present location in an operation involving nothing less than military precision and a watchmaker's eye for detail.  The progression of the house can be seen in the image below, which I photographed at the visitor center of The Grange.

Chronica Domus
Points 1, 2, and 3 on this map identify The Grange's locations and positioning through the passage of time
Photo: Chronica Domus


Today, the house has been set within more appropriate surroundings, atop a sloping hillside within a small park-like setting.  It remains, nonetheless, jarringly juxtaposed with several looming buildings, a somewhat less than ideal backdrop for such a national monument.

Chronica Domus
The City College of New York is one of the nicer buildings to share a vista with The Grange's covered porches
Photo: Chronica Domus


If visitors were to enter the house through the front door, as they did when The Hamiltons lived here, they would find themselves in this beautifully appointed entry hall, with an oilcloth simulating marble and stone, and a door surrounded by an elegant fanlight and sidelights.  Unlike most Federal era houses, the hall does not continue through to the back of the house.  Instead, it leads visitors directly towards the two angled octagonal-shaped public rooms to the rear.

Chronica Domus
The beautiful entry hall of The Grange
Photo: Chronica Domus


Guests of The Hamiltons would have admired a painting of George Washington by Gilbert Stuart, a gift bestowed upon Mr. Hamilton by a wealthy merchant.  They would not have seen the painting that hangs in the entry hall today, which is but a recent copy of an original painted of Mr. Hamilton by John Trumbull in 1792.

Chronica Domus
A portrait of Alexander Hamilton is prominently displayed in the entry of The Grange
Photo: Chronica Domus


As I peeked through the doorway to the right of the painting, I saw a beautiful set of stairs, complete with a striped runner, leading to... nowhere! Unfortunately, no record of how the bed chambers upstairs were decorated exists, or of who occupied which room, so the top floor is off limits to visitors. Additionally, there is of course the sticky business of having to uphold modern fire code regulations, and as the house lacks a secondary exit, the fate of the upstairs floor is pretty much a closed book as far as present and future visitors are concerned.  'Tis a great shame I say, for it took me considerable will power to resist the temptation of making a mad dash up the stairs, of which I am certain our pleasant National Park Service guide would not have approved.

Chronica Domus
The stairway to... nowhere!
Photo: Chronica Domus


Not to worry, I thought, as there was still plenty to see.  I'd long admired the two public rooms of The Grange that were included in Houses of The Founding Fathers, which had after all sown the seeds for my expedition to Harlem.  Below is a photograph of the page from my book showing the drawing room.

Chronica Domus
The drawing room as seen in the book Houses of The Founding Fathers
Photo: Chronica Domus


Stepping into the bright sunlit drawing room, I was startled to see how much of a transformation the octagonal room had received. I barely recognized it.  Yes, the Louis XVI chairs and games table were still there, along with the piano-forte, which is not shown in the photograph above but was an item shown in the book, and one that is original to the house.  Today, the room's walls have been painted a rich buttery yellow, the floor-length curtains replaced with fringed swags, and the carpet is now peppered with leaves atop a dark green ground, a color matching that of the upholstery.  I'm not quite certain what prompted these decorative changes outside of the new wall color, which came to light as being original through paint analysis of the walls when the house was moved to its present location.

Chronica Domus
The drawing room as it appears today
Photo: Chronica Domus


The drawing room was not the only room in the house to have received an update.  Below is a photograph of what the dining room looked like when it was photographed for the book in 2007.

Chronica Domus
The Grange's dining room as seen in Houses of The Founding Fathers
Photo: Chronica Domus


Today, it is painted the same buttery yellow as the drawing room, affording it an airier feel. The shield-back dining chairs have been replaced and upholstered in what looked to me to be a black horsehair fabric appropriate for the period.  The curtains have met a similar fate to the ones in the drawing room and have also changed color.  Finally, the dark floral carpet has been swept away and replaced with a smaller design incorporating foliage in shades of grey and red.  There was just one other small change I noticed; the mahogany sideboard had been switched out for a serpentine front example with two lower central doors. Again, I am puzzled by this change as the sideboard in the above photograph seems just as appropriate for a room of this period.

Chronica Domus
The newly decorated dining room
Photo: Chronica Domus


The remaining room accessible to the public is Mr. Hamilton's study-cum-library, which is painted an attractive grassy green, unlike the version in the book which was devoid of any color.  Once again, paint analysis determined this was the original rich verdant green shade, a pigment which no doubt would have cost The Hamiltons dearly in its day. The three books resting on the table top belonged to Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton.

Chronica Domus
Alexander Hamilton's newly painted study-cum-library
Photo: Chronica Domus


My visit to The Grange was enriched through the enjoyable experience of  the visitor center, located in the basement level of the house, where much more information about the fascinating life of Alexander Hamilton can be found.  This is also where the wonderful introductory video that our knowledgeable park ranger, Mr. George Tonkin, played for us before our house tour commenced.

I highly encourage you to add this national treasure to your itinerary and to make the trek uptown when next in New York city.  Incidentally, if you arrive early, as we did, you might be as fortunate as us and find yourself part of a very small tour group.  Aside from our family of three, there was but one other gentleman to join in on the fun, which made for a very cozy tour indeed.  At peak times, the house tours can swell to a maximum of fifteen people so this was indeed a special treat, allowing us to absorb as much of the fine detail of the house as possible.  Besides, we had the undivided attentions of poor Mr. Tonkin, whom we bombarded with questions, and what a good sport he was!

Hamilton Grange National Memorial is located at 414 West 141st Street, New York, New York.

Oh, and don't forget to saunter on down the hill once you've completed your tour and visit Grant's tomb, which I wrote about here.

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Part II: A Parisian Déjà Vu In New York

Chronica Domus
The architectural gem we stumbled upon tucked within Riverside Park
Photo: Chronica Domus


The title of this post has absolutely nothing to do with Ladurée's Manhattan outposts, nor the obligatory queue of macaron lovers spilling into the streets of every city in which Ladurée has a presence.  Rather, today's post pertains to a grand monument commonly overlooked by the hordes of travelers to New York who typically gravitate toward the more recognizable icons of the city.

Indeed, it was by happy accident that my family and I stumbled across this eclectic edifice of classical architecture while on our merry way to viewing another site off the beaten track, about which I am planning a separate post.

Its unexpected discovery was made during a cab ride to Harlem early one chilly morning, while driving along picture perfect Riverside Drive, where we spotted what looked to be something rather special. Built of grey granite and situated high upon a mound by the Hudson River, our curiosity was piqued. Several hours later, having completed our tour of what we had ventured to see in Harlem, we meandered back down the hill, through squirrel-happy Riverside Park, until we once again came upon the resplendent structure which had previously caught our eye.

Chronica Domus
Our paths crossed with many darting squirrels in Riverside Park
Photo: Chronica Domus


To our great surprise and delight, it came to be that we were marveling at North America's largest mausoleum, which happened to be the final resting place of America's eighteenth president, Ulysses S. Grant, and his wife Julia Dent Grant.  Not only that, but a fleeting moment of  déjà vu was forefront in my mind.

Chronica Domus
General Grant National Memorial reminded me of ...
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
... L'Hotel de Invalides where Napoleon Bonaparte is entombed
Photo: Chronica Domus



How was it that upon entering the General Grant National Memorial I was reminded so much of another tomb I had visited in Paris, that of Napoleon Bonaparte at L'Hotel de Invalides?  The similarities were so striking that I instinctively knew my way around the building, which I will confess, is a most surreal and slightly unsettling experience.  I even felt the same sense of cocooned stillness befitting both honored places of rest, aided perhaps by the soaring scale of the dome and the acoustical qualities of its hard marble surfaces. 

Of course, Grant's tomb was considerably more severe in it's paucity of decoration, a result of eliminating many of the elaborate sculptural adornments from the architect's original plan due to lack of funding. However, both spaces share many architectural similarities.  For instance ...


Chronica Domus
... Looking up into the dome of Grant's tomb ...
Photo: Chronica Domus

Photo: Chronica Domus

Chronica Domus
... and looking up towards the dome of Napoleon's tomb
Photo: Chronica Domus

The design elements mirrored in each tomb continue downstairs into the marble lined circular crypt where the twin sarcophagi of President and Mrs. Grant are situated. Made of red Montello granite mined in Wisconsin, the sarcophagi, weighing eight and a half tons a piece, resemble that of Napoleon's which was carved of another reddish-colored stone known as porphyry. The plinths at both locations are similarly constructed not only in their stepped design, but also in their choice of stone. 


Sarcophagi sit side-by-side at the General Grant National Memorial
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
The sarcophagi at Grant's tomb, and their situation, bear a striking resemblance to Napoleon's tomb in Paris
Photo: Chronica Domus


Napoleon's porphyry sarcophagus and green granite plinth
Photo: Chronica Domus 


The photographs below clearly illustrate how much Napoleon's crypt, completed thirty-five years earlier than Grant's, had influenced the American architect John Hemingway Duncan when seeking inspiration for the general's memorial.  The square marble pillars are almost identical to those used in Paris.  I wonder if Mr. Duncan's vision had included statuary at each pillar before reaching the limits of his funding.

Chronica Domus
The marble pillars of Grant's tomb ...
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
... and those of Napoleon's tomb
Photo: Chronica Domus

Our discovery of this important and beautiful national treasure left us a little perplexed as to the circumstances of it being erected in New York of all places (many of the presidential memorials are located in Washington D.C., the nation's capital, where in fact, we recalled viewing a small bronze statue commemorating President Grant on our visit there several years ago).  We were, nonetheless, delighted to have stumbled upon this grand memorial and would encourage anyone with an interest in architecture or history to make the trek uptown when next in New York city to view this stately and hallowed structure firsthand. Oh, and if the weather is clement, a picnic amid the pleasant environs of the park, and its many squirrels, would surely top off an enjoyable excursion.  Do plan your visit carefully and check the opening times and dates so as not to be disappointed, here.

Nota bene: While researching this post, I discovered that Mrs. Grant had written to New York's mayor with her justification for why her husband's national memorial should be located in New York and not Washington D.C., as was the prevailing consensus of the time.  Published by the mayor for all to see, she states "Riverside was selected by myself and my family as the burial place of my husband, General Grant.  First, because I believe New York was his preference.  Second, it is near the residence that I hope to occupy as long as I live, and where I will be able to visit his resting place often.  Third, I have believed, and am now convinced, that the tomb will be visited by as many of his countrymen there as it would be at any other place. Fourth, the offer of a park in New York was the first which observed and unreservedly assented to the only condition imposed by General Grant himself, namely that I should have a place by his side".

Mrs. Grant also made it known that there should never be a public restroom in her tomb, and to this day, there is none.

Sunday, January 4, 2015

Part I: Welcome To New York

Chronica Domus
 A slice of New York's skyline from Central Park
Photo: Chronica Domus

My family and I have recently returned from our travels to a grand metropolis that I can only describe as one of the world's most beautiful, sophisticated, glitzy and glamorous cities.  Yes, New York is all of the above and much, much more. Architecturally and culturally rich, with ample open space to enjoy between the hubbub of city life, New York has more than a little something to delight the senses of all who pass through.  The city looks particularly glamorous at this time of year when dressed to the hilt in its festive finery, and believe me, practically everyone gets into the spirit here. Even the city's trees are not immune to a little decoration.

Chronica Domus
Every branch is covered in white lights that must have taken hours to install
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Urns and window boxes present yet more opportunity to don a seasonal frill
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
The festive sight that greeted us upon our arrival at the beautiful St. James' Church on Christmas morning
Photo: Chronica Domus


Nine days is simply not long enough to visit everything we had intended to see, but we made a valiant effort and saw a dizzying amount between the miles of walking and cabbing.  New York is a city of walkers, which suits me just fine, as I love to pound the pavements in whichever city I find myself.  It really is the best way of getting one's bearings and also seeing things which might otherwise be missed when traveling by car or train.  When one's feet begin to grumble, it is easy to hail one of the famous yellow cabs for the remainder of the journey.  It seemed as though every other vehicle on Manhattan's streets was painted yellow.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Our refuge in the city was The Carlyle hotel, an impossibly glamorous old-school beacon of elegance where supreme comfort and service is the name of the game.  The excellent staff anticipates a guest's every need and no request is ever too great. Simply put, The Carlyle is heaven on earth and a dreamy bolthole away from the clamors of city life. The downside, of course, is that one must eventually take leave of this pampered existence, which makes for a bittersweet separation when the time arrives to bid this temptress adieu, no matter how much you love home sweet home.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Stepping into the lobby through the revolving doors for the first time reminded me so much of Claridge's in London, and no wonder.  I soon came to discover that Thierry Despont has had a hand in both storied hotels.

Chronica Domus
The view as one enters the hotel
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Old-world glamour infuses every detail
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A more complete view of the elegant lobby with a fabulous geometric carpet
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
I adore the vivid goldenrod color of this little corner of tranquility
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A magical tree befitting the glitz and glamour of The Carlyle
Photo: Chronica Domus


No detail was ever overlooked, including the festive arrangements of flowers which were always impeccably fresh.

Chronica Domus
One of two large amaryllis arrangements as photographed upon our arrival
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
A week later, the arrangements were replaced with nearly identical crimson versions
Photo: Chronica Domus

If you have not guessed it already, things are done the old-fashioned way around here, including the operation of the two guest elevators which are staffed by a small army of white-gloved operators.  I was wild for the old-style brass letterbox located on the ground floor, complete with it's chute which passes through each of the hotel's floors. Posting a letter was never so glamorous.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


Across the way one finds this cozy sitting area, complete with fireplace all aglow.  I could have sat here all evening watching the world go by.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


However, Bemelmans Bar is just around the corner which is always a good remedy to sooth the soul after a day's worth of sightseeing.

Chronica Domus
The evening's entertainment at Bemelmans Bar
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
One of the many charming features of the bar is the little lampshades adorned with Ludwig Bemelmans' illustrations from the Madeline books
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Every corner of the bar is decorated with Mr. Bemelmans' beguilling child-like murals painted during his year and a half residency at The Carlyle
Photo: Chronica Domus


Wouldn't you agree that sashaying down these incredibly gorgeous stairs could make anyone feel like an old-school Hollywood starlet?  I loved everything about them from the iron and brass railings to the black and white curve of the marble and stone.

Chronica Domus
Photo: Chronica Domus


And, just so we don't forget where it is that we've been lucky enough to find ourselves, the soaps in our suite looked like this, demonstrating once again that no detail is ever left to chance, which adds to the singular experience of a stay at The Carlyle.

Chronica Domus
Mmmm ...the aroma of this soap was divine, a perfect balance to suit both masculine and feminine sensibilities - how do they do it?
Photo: Chronica Domus


Over the next several posts, I plan on sharing some very special places we visited, places that might be inadvertently overlooked due to their lesser prominence in comparison to New York's more iconic landmarks.  I do hope you return and follow along as I hot-foot it across town on my adventures.

Nota bene: I am neither paid nor do I receive recompense in exchange for applauding products or services within my blog.  I do so because I enjoy them.  If you are a kindred spirit, you too enjoy recommending nice things to fellow good eggs.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...