Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Part III: A Founding Father's House In Harlem

Chronica Domus
A bust in the entry hall of The Grange portrays Alexander Hamilton as a Roman senator
Photo: Chronica Domus


Several years ago, while rummaging around the shelves of a second-hand book shop, I stumbled across a pristine hardbound copy of Houses of The Founding Fathers by author Hugh Howard.  The book contains lavish color photographs and information on the private residences and domestic lives of the men that founded The United States of America.  Of course, I snapped up the book with alacrity and have since spent many happy hours poring over each detail of the beautiful photographs and text contained within. In fact, I took so much pleasure in the book that it inspired me to go on a bit of a pilgrimage, attempting to visit as many of  the houses featured in the book as possible.

So far I've had the privilege of visiting George Washington's Mount Vernon, Thomas Jefferson's Monticello, a particular favorite of mine, and his second residence Poplar Forest, James Madison's Montpelier,  George Wythe's house in Williamsburg, Virginia, and most recently Alexander Hamilton's country house, The Grange, located in Harlem, New York.

Chronica Domus
The facade of Alexander Hamilton's house, The Grange, spoiled by the unsightly modern barrier at the foot of the front entrance which is closed off to the general public (Note to NPS: Please, please do consider installing a more aesthetically pleasing, period appropriate solution in keeping with the excellent restoration work achieved thus far, thank you)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chronica Domus
Visitors gain access to The Grange via the doorway beneath the front stairs (notice the on-going repair work below the porch to the right)
Photo: Chronica Domus


Wait a minute, did she just say "country house", for isn't Harlem in the midst of one of the most crowded cities on the planet?  The Grange, designed by John McComb Junior, was indeed a country house, for when it was completed in 1802, Harlem was very much removed from the madding crowd and entirely rural.  Situated within Hamilton's thirty-two acre estate, The Grange would provide the type of gentlemanly country life to which Mr. Hamilton aspired, a life to be shared with his wife Elizabeth Schuyler Hamilton and their many children. Tragically, he would reside there for a mere two years before his untimely death by duel.

The Grange, which is the only house Alexander Hamilton ever built, has been moved twice in its history.  From 1802 until 1888, it stood at its original location near the center of Hamilton's property. Then, the house was moved to 141st and Convent Avenue, where it sat quite unceremoniously wedged between an apartment building and a church.  It was not until 2008 that the National Park Service moved it to its present location in an operation involving nothing less than military precision and a watchmaker's eye for detail.  The progression of the house can be seen in the image below, which I photographed at the visitor center of The Grange.

Chronica Domus
Points 1, 2, and 3 on this map identify The Grange's locations and positioning through the passage of time
Photo: Chronica Domus


Today, the house has been set within more appropriate surroundings, atop a sloping hillside within a small park-like setting.  It remains, nonetheless, jarringly juxtaposed with several looming buildings, a somewhat less than ideal backdrop for such a national monument.

Chronica Domus
The City College of New York is one of the nicer buildings to share a vista with The Grange's covered porches
Photo: Chronica Domus


If visitors were to enter the house through the front door, as they did when The Hamiltons lived here, they would find themselves in this beautifully appointed entry hall, with an oilcloth simulating marble and stone, and a door surrounded by an elegant fanlight and sidelights.  Unlike most Federal era houses, the hall does not continue through to the back of the house.  Instead, it leads visitors directly towards the two angled octagonal-shaped public rooms to the rear.

Chronica Domus
The beautiful entry hall of The Grange
Photo: Chronica Domus


Guests of The Hamiltons would have admired a painting of George Washington by Gilbert Stuart, a gift bestowed upon Mr. Hamilton by a wealthy merchant.  They would not have seen the painting that hangs in the entry hall today, which is but a recent copy of an original painted of Mr. Hamilton by John Trumbull in 1792.

Chronica Domus
A portrait of Alexander Hamilton is prominently displayed in the entry of The Grange
Photo: Chronica Domus


As I peeked through the doorway to the right of the painting, I saw a beautiful set of stairs, complete with a striped runner, leading to... nowhere! Unfortunately, no record of how the bed chambers upstairs were decorated exists, or of who occupied which room, so the top floor is off limits to visitors. Additionally, there is of course the sticky business of having to uphold modern fire code regulations, and as the house lacks a secondary exit, the fate of the upstairs floor is pretty much a closed book as far as present and future visitors are concerned.  'Tis a great shame I say, for it took me considerable will power to resist the temptation of making a mad dash up the stairs, of which I am certain our pleasant National Park Service guide would not have approved.

Chronica Domus
The stairway to... nowhere!
Photo: Chronica Domus


Not to worry, I thought, as there was still plenty to see.  I'd long admired the two public rooms of The Grange that were included in Houses of The Founding Fathers, which had after all sown the seeds for my expedition to Harlem.  Below is a photograph of the page from my book showing the drawing room.

Chronica Domus
The drawing room as seen in the book Houses of The Founding Fathers
Photo: Chronica Domus


Stepping into the bright sunlit drawing room, I was startled to see how much of a transformation the octagonal room had received. I barely recognized it.  Yes, the Louis XVI chairs and games table were still there, along with the piano-forte, which is not shown in the photograph above but was an item shown in the book, and one that is original to the house.  Today, the room's walls have been painted a rich buttery yellow, the floor-length curtains replaced with fringed swags, and the carpet is now peppered with leaves atop a dark green ground, a color matching that of the upholstery.  I'm not quite certain what prompted these decorative changes outside of the new wall color, which came to light as being original through paint analysis of the walls when the house was moved to its present location.

Chronica Domus
The drawing room as it appears today
Photo: Chronica Domus


The drawing room was not the only room in the house to have received an update.  Below is a photograph of what the dining room looked like when it was photographed for the book in 2007.

Chronica Domus
The Grange's dining room as seen in Houses of The Founding Fathers
Photo: Chronica Domus


Today, it is painted the same buttery yellow as the drawing room, affording it an airier feel. The shield-back dining chairs have been replaced and upholstered in what looked to me to be a black horsehair fabric appropriate for the period.  The curtains have met a similar fate to the ones in the drawing room and have also changed color.  Finally, the dark floral carpet has been swept away and replaced with a smaller design incorporating foliage in shades of grey and red.  There was just one other small change I noticed; the mahogany sideboard had been switched out for a serpentine front example with two lower central doors. Again, I am puzzled by this change as the sideboard in the above photograph seems just as appropriate for a room of this period.

Chronica Domus
The newly decorated dining room
Photo: Chronica Domus


The remaining room accessible to the public is Mr. Hamilton's study-cum-library, which is painted an attractive grassy green, unlike the version in the book which was devoid of any color.  Once again, paint analysis determined this was the original rich verdant green shade, a pigment which no doubt would have cost The Hamiltons dearly in its day. The three books resting on the table top belonged to Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton.

Chronica Domus
Alexander Hamilton's newly painted study-cum-library
Photo: Chronica Domus


My visit to The Grange was enriched through the enjoyable experience of  the visitor center, located in the basement level of the house, where much more information about the fascinating life of Alexander Hamilton can be found.  This is also where the wonderful introductory video that our knowledgeable park ranger, Mr. George Tonkin, played for us before our house tour commenced.

I highly encourage you to add this national treasure to your itinerary and to make the trek uptown when next in New York city.  Incidentally, if you arrive early, as we did, you might be as fortunate as us and find yourself part of a very small tour group.  Aside from our family of three, there was but one other gentleman to join in on the fun, which made for a very cozy tour indeed.  At peak times, the house tours can swell to a maximum of fifteen people so this was indeed a special treat, allowing us to absorb as much of the fine detail of the house as possible.  Besides, we had the undivided attentions of poor Mr. Tonkin, whom we bombarded with questions, and what a good sport he was!

Hamilton Grange National Memorial is located at 414 West 141st Street, New York, New York.

Oh, and don't forget to saunter on down the hill once you've completed your tour and visit Grant's tomb, which I wrote about here.

29 comments:

  1. Thank you for this wonderful guided tour. I will add the Hamilton house to my to visit list and will look out for the Founding Fathers book. I'm very interested in these NY jaunts. I'd like to know more about the curtain to valence story. Usually these changes do come from some added discovery from a document etc., but one likes to know!

    In fact, I think I love visiting historic houses and chateaux maybe even more than museums, but the risk of disappointment is (in general- not here) much greater. So glad I don't have to choose bewteen one or the other!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh, gésbi, you absolutely must see this house especially as you have such a fondness for house museums. The visitor center is a good place to begin your tour for there is much information to be gleaned before proceeding upstairs to the main house.

      There was one other house I was interested in visiting while in New York, but alas, time would not permit. Next trip to be certain. It is The Merchant's House Museum, a house recommended by a friend. Perhaps you could add that to your list too and write a blog post about it.

      http://merchantshouse.org/

      Delete
    2. Yes, after reading your post, I did a little G-search and spotted that one too! Both are bookmarked for my next trip over, but no trip plans in the immediate future!

      Delete
    3. gésbi,

      I'm thrilled to have inspired you enough to add both sites to your next itinerary. There is also a large church across the street from Grant's tomb that you might consider walking to. It is a Gothic-revival behemoth, Also, it is quite deceiving in that one might think it older than its appearance would indicate (built in 1930). Well worth a visit.

      Delete
    4. Forgot to mention, that would be Riverside Church, sorry.

      Delete
  2. Hello CD, So much of the 18th and early 19th century was later drained of its original color, and painted a ghostly white. It is nice to see some of the original tints returning to the Grange, and one imagines that there will be more to come as the restoration progresses. Perhaps a result of so much care and research on this project was that they erred on the side of over-restoration; a little patina is always nice in an old building.
    --Jim

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jim,

      I so agree with you with regard to your point on patina in an old building. Everything was certainly shiny and new in its day, but it is nice to see the effects of time on items such as gilt frames, for example. I recall that every painting (repros) at Madison's Montpelier stood out like sore thumbs because the frames were overly shiny and looked as though they had just been purchased.

      The addition of color to rooms is a marvelous development, thanks to modern technology. Again, I recall the dining room at Jefferson's Monticello, when we saw it, had just received a new (old) paint color, a vivid canary yellow. I could just imagine how it glowed during dinner parties.

      Delete
  3. what a lovely house with a great restoration- thanks for sharing it! i'll have to add it to my list (and the book too!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello AD,

      I'm so glad you enjoyed the tour. You most certainly must add a copy of Houses of The Founding Fathers to your library. Perhaps two copies, actually. Since acquiring my hardbound 2007 copy, the book has been released in paperback format and The Grange has been rephotographed for this particular printing.

      Delete
  4. Well you have uncovered another place I did not visit! I have only gone to Harlem to eat and be a tourist but just walked around aimlessly. I didn't know about this house. I love the Federal type homes as well. Hamilton was one of those historical figures that should be more famous as he was pivotal to so many dealings and negotiations that don't seem to get as much airplay bc he never became president...I do think he would make a great mini-series as well just like that one they did on the otherwise seemingly boring John Adams. I hope you have some more tourist new york tricks up your sleeve?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, I am pleased that this post has provided you with yet another place to visit when next in New York, and as it seems that we have a shared interest in Federal era houses and architecture, I am certain you'll enjoy your visit there.

      I agree, a nice little documentary on the fascinating live of this most accomplished gentleman is in order. I see his face so often in my purse that I forget he was responsible for the nation's financial system, and so much more besides.

      I (finally) watched the John Adams mini-series last year and enjoyed it. My husband, however, did not, which surprised me. He could not abide the way Thomas Jefferson was played/portrayed, and could barely watch portions of it due to the shaky camera work. Is this the one you watched too? Perhaps John Adams came off as somewhat "boring" because he really was part of a team, what with such a strong and intelligent wife by his side.

      Not yet sure if I can squeeze yet another NY post out of everything we saw, but your wish is my command so I might just have to pull something together for you.

      Thanks for stopping by and adding to the banter.

      Delete
    2. Yes it was the HBO miniseries. I did notice Jefferson wasn't portrayed in the best light but it was a refreshing change bc Adams got some limelight for once. It also reminded me Jefferson wasn't perfect yet he has had some great PR! I also loved how Benjamin franklin was portrayed too. It's nice to mix up long held notions on historical figures.

      Delete
    3. For all your stated observations, I too enjoyed the production. Having an opportunity to get to know the other founding fathers was a joy, and yes Mr. Franklin certainly had a wry sense of humor.

      Delete
  5. Ooh, do they show the houses of Lewis or Gouverneur Morris?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello LPC, and welcome!

      I don't believe either were represented in the book. I wonder if that is because their private houses are long gone. Do you have a particular interest in Lewis or GM?

      Delete
  6. CD,
    What a wonderful tour and how fortunate to have a book of historic homes to reference. I have always enjoyed tours of historic homes and at one point worked on a historic home here in Orange County, California. The Kellogg house was built by Hiram Clay Kellogg and is now used as a hands on learning center for children.
    Thank you for the tour.
    Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Karen,

      Glad you enjoyed the tour, and I'm sure you of all people would appreciate what goes into running and maintaining such a house. I'm now off to research The Kellogg House, a place unknown to me.

      Thank you for your comment.

      Delete
  7. Fab post and tour! I think our hostess superior to any travel writer I've come across in ages and would follow her anywhere.
    GSL can't help but wonder if our dear CD went up to Harlem " in ermine and pearls..?."

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh you are most kind dear sir, thank you. Now, about that ermine, I think not, but pearls, certainly!

      Delete
  8. What a wonderful discovery to find in the bookshop, and especially that it lead you to period gems such as The Grange. Loved the Architecture and detail, that yellow is very Georgian. I don't think anyone ever did their rooms white historically up until very recently, unless they couldn't afford paper or paint. The fanlight above the front door is also beautiful - my front door has similar sidelights and fanlight, however not nearly so large (or so old, my house is only 110 years old!). It's also amazing to think how quickly New York changed to become the enormous metropolis that it is today.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Heidi,

      I recall that beautiful fanlight in one of your December posts and actually commented on it. I'd thoroughly enjoy one of those if I were to live in such an old house.

      Yes, I think a lot of people would be rather surprised at how colorful rooms of the 18th and early 19th century were, some startlingly so. Those vivid greens, chrome yellows, and terracotta red shades were very fashionable, and costly too.

      Thank you for stopping by and commenting.

      Delete
  9. Hello,

    What a fortuitous find your book was and, like you, we should definitely have been inspired to seek out these hidden treasures which are so essential to your country's history.

    And, what a gem The Grange is. We can definitely imagine ourselves poring over every detail in this delightful house. How extraordinary that oilcloth should be used in the hall and its octagonal design so perfectly echoing the shapes of the principle reception rooms.

    It is also intriguing to think of Harlem being out in the countryside when this house was built. Similarly, in Budapest, the National History Museum was surrounded by fields whereas now it appears circumscribed by roads, tram tracks and large houses. All not so very long ago, either. What change the last few decades has seen in city life.

    It does seem a pity that the front entrance has been so roughly treated. Whereas, the renovation of the interior looks to have been very sympathetically handled. We could move into the Drawing Room today!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Jane and Lance,

      The use of oilcloth as flooring was a common practice during the late 18th and early 19th century, at least here in America. I've seen them in several houses and they are all painted to simulate some type of stone or marble pattern, a less costly version of the real thing I suppose.

      I do worry about urban sprawl around historic buildings, such as your National History Museum, and especially so in cities like London. Have you seen how many building site cranes litter the landscape? There are more and more each time I visit, and buildings are getting taller and taller, seemingly swallowing up the oldies.

      Delete
  10. Must be an experience touring a house like this. I have tried it once, but it was a controversial haunted house. :P Still, it was an unforgettable trip.

    Thanks for sharing your tour. The place looks so elegant.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello SuperLux,

      Welcome, and thank you for your comment.

      I too once toured a peculiar house shrouded in the mysteries of the afterlife, and said to be haunted. It was The Winchester Mystery House located in San Jose, just in case you ever get the urge to visit.

      Delete
  11. You appear to have had an amazing time in NYC. It has taken me a while to catch up with your exploits.

    I know that yellow is a period colour, but it is not my favourite choice, and that green, well, while I agree that some colour was required that is a fairly high octane colour injection!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Lord Cowell,

      It was indeed an amazing and action-packed holiday in New York city over the Christmas holidays, thank you.

      I'm on the fence with yellow too. I like my yellows to be more in the goldenrod spectrum (much deeper, like egg yolks, if you like), rather than buttery. However, green I adore in its many guises. The majority of us might be quite shocked at how intense period colors can appear, especially when comparing them to today's color-phobic and rather anemic interiors.

      Delete
  12. I have been following this house and the restoration, I can't wait to see it when I visit New York soon,The drawing room has a very rare set of 18th century American made Louis XVI seated furniture. Thanks for your wonderful post and photo's I always like to get a sneak peek!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Helloa andrew1860,

      Thank you for your praise of this post. I really enjoyed viewing the house and found the guide that accompanied us about the house particularly knowledgeable. Get there early as the groups are smaller and you have the guide's complete attention, which is, of course, particularly nice if you are anything like me and ask lots of questions.

      Enjoy your visit.

      Delete

Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...