Thursday, November 6, 2014

Part III of III: Bespoke Retirement Gifts From My Father

Chronica Domus
My ladies frock coat awaiting its first fitting
Photo: Chronica Domus


Nota bene: I apologize for the delay in publishing this post, the final installment of the three-part series.  I've had to dig deep into my seemingly bottomless digital photography library to find the images of my father at work that best illustrate this story. I do hope you enjoy reading and viewing this post. 

My father enjoyed a great passion for his craft during his long career as a Savile Row tailor, a passion that went far beyond merely earning his daily bread.  You would think that in his spare time he would turn to other pleasures to occupy his hours.  Not my Dad.  He had a working love affair with fabric and our family has reaped the rewards handsomely over the years.  His sons-in-law wore bespoke suits made for them as wedding gifts by his hand, as did most of the male cousins in our family.  He was also our favorite curtain maker, and even turned his attention to upholstery on one occasion.

Shortly before his retirement, my father generously offered to make my husband and I some bespoke sartorial gifts. My fortunate other half was to be outfitted with a new two-piece suit and a heavy winter coat, and I was to be the lucky recipient of a ladies frock coat.

We were sent along to visit Chittleborough & Morgan on Savile Row, where we met with Mr. Roy Chittleborough who expertly measured us for our new clothing.  I've known Roy, and his business partner Mr. Joseph Morgan, since childhood and always make a point of stopping by the shop to say hello whenever I'm in London.  In Roy's capable hands, we were assured that the numerous measurements taken (I lost track of exactly how many after about ten) to make our individual bespoke patterns would be handled with the utmost skill and dexterity.

While at the shop, my husband had the opportunity of selecting the cloth for his new suit, a grey superfine British worsted wool, and also the lining for his jacket and trousers, a brilliant purple silk which would impart a dashing shot of color to an otherwise conservative looking suit.

The photograph below shows my father cutting the suit trousers from the grey wool.

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Chalk lines indicate where to cut for economy of cloth
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The mark of a quality British superfine all worsted wool, woven at a mill located in the town of Huddersfield in northern England
Photo: Chronica Domus

Nothing is wasted, not even the cloth's identifying label, seen above, which is woven at the edge of the fabric.  Eventually, this will be cut and stitched into the interior backs of the trouser cuffs, providing extra durability and extending the life of the trousers, a nice bespoke detail not found on made-to-measure or off the rack trousers.

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Making adjustments to the trousers at the first fitting
Photo: Chronica Domus


Chalk is so important to a tailor.  In the photograph above, my husband receives his first trouser fitting.  By the end of it, he is covered in chalk marks indicating where alternations are required.

The suit jacket is single-breasted with two buttons, a breast pocket, and a classic peaked lapel.  It is a well known fact among the tailoring community that cutting peaked collars on single-breasted jackets is one of the most challenging aspects of the craft.  I think my father did an outstanding job on my husband's jacket, seen in the photograph below.

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A classic peaked lapel complete with buttonhole for one's boutonniére
Photo: Chronica Domus


The interior of the jacket is a work of art. See how beautifully the silk lining has been hand-stitched into the jacket, finished off with neat triangular pocket flaps and little horn buttons.  The seam that runs slightly to the bottom right of the flap shows how this pocket is divided into two so that the wearer can store a narrow item, such as a pen, upright.

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The interior work of the jacket beautifully highlighted in purple silk
Photo: Chronica Domus


Now, onto the next item of clothing, my husband's heavy winter cashmere coat.  Part of the inspiration for this began with Benedict Cumberbatch's portrayal of Sherlock Holmes, who is kitted out in a marvelously dramatic coat that combines aspects of a traditional frock coat and a military greatcoat.

Watching the two men in my life collaborate on the design of the coat provided some rather amusing moments. Here is what they came up with while brainstorming one evening.

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The design process of the winter coat as it evolved - left, my husband's crude drawing, center and right, my father's interpretation using the medium he works best in, cloth
Photo: Chronica Domus

I was curious to see what sartorial marvel would be concocted from the lavish heavy black cashmere wool and blood-red colored silk chosen to line the coat.

The photographs below show the incredible amount of hidden detail that goes into every bespoke coat and jacket.  Hundreds of stitches help build the foundation of the chest area, lapels, and collar. It takes many hours of concentration and nimble fingers, in concert with needle and thread, to achieve the correct structure.

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 The hidden workings of a bespoke coat
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The interior of the left front coat panel, showing my father accurately measuring the angle and width of the lapel
Photo: Chronica Domus


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Snipping the black cashmere fabric that will line the lapel, no mistakes allowed!
Photo: Chronica Domus

At first fitting, below, you can see how much progress has been made.  The coat is beginning to resemble the crude design that was hatched during the brainstorming session.  A canvas waist band is pinned in place to get an idea of it's final positioning.

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White thread and chalk guide my father in achieving the perfect fit
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The style and placing of the cuffs and slanted pockets are picked out in canvas at the initial fitting
Photo: Chronica Domus


It took several more fittings, and many more hours of work, until my father was ready to hand sew the silk lining to the interior of the coat.  Below you see the old master beginning to thread the various panels together.

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Photo: Chronica Domus


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Like a jigsaw puzzle, much concentration and skill is required to align the silk panels for a flawless fit
Photo: Chronica Domus


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The completed interior showing one of the pockets embellished with a little horn button
Photo: Chronica Domus 


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The elegant curve of the cuff imparts a dashing touch of artistry to the coat
Photo: Chronica Domus


Below, I present my husband, photographed on a chilly December evening in London alongside a statue of the dandiest of Regency dandies, Beau Brummel.  I think they both look rather fetching in their double-breasted coats, don't you?

Two elegantly attired dandies on Jermyn Street, one of London's most fashionable streets and home to many gentlemen's clothiers
Photo: Chronica Domus


Now it was my turn to be outfitted in style.  My father asked me what I would enjoy wearing and find useful to add to my wardrobe.  We discussed the idea for making a very handsome coat that I knew would be put to good use whenever I had occasion to be dressed to the nines and out on the town for some fun.  I was to receive a ladies double-breasted frock coat, designed to be worn over a dress as a light layer and not really meant to keep the cold weather at bay, such as a heavy overcoat would.  The frock coat would be long-skirted, slightly nipped in at the waist, with two back vents running the length of the skirt. I was floating on a cloud at the prospect of wearing such a theatrical coat and could not wait to witness the magic my father would conjure to make it all materialize.

Chronica Domus
Here is the front panel of my ladies frock coat being readied for my first fitting
Photo: Chronica Domus

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Here I am under the careful gaze of my father as he pins and chalks away
Photo: Chronica Domus


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I was so excited to see what the front of the frock coat looked like that I dashed into the bathroom to peek into the mirror
Photo: Chronica Domus

For a feminine touch, I selected a salmon pink two-toned lining that appears green as the fabric shifts around in the light.  Pink thread was also used to highlight the bottom buttonhole of the cuffs adding another idiosyncratic detail to the coat.  Can you see the clandestine pocket that has been incorporated into the lining at the waistline?  My husband and I have immensely enjoyed taking advantage of such bespoke detail, adding flamboyant touches where they would not ordinarily be expected.

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Horn buttons, pink buttonholes, and secret pockets, bespoke touches that make up my ladies frock coat
Photo: Chronica Domus


It was a fascinating educational journey of discovery and awe as we documented my father at work and watched him create immaculately tailored garments for us  We find ourselves so very fortunate to be the grateful recipients of his magnanimous nature, and shall wear each garment with pride and joy for many years to come.

Slipping into an item of clothing that is made to one's exact form which traces perfectly the curve of the shoulders, the small of the back, and the length of the arm, is a great joy. To state something fits like a glove is truly the best possible way of describing the experience, and to know each item was made by my beloved father with love, generosity and care is indeed wondrous.

26 comments:

  1. Oh my dear CD I had tingles just reading this. You and hubs will cut quite dashing figures out on the town in these gorgeous garments. My navy blue Burberry pinstripe has suddenly taken on a hangdog air... Topcoat design well chosen and I'm also a single breasted man.
    What a treat to see our CD enchantress has maintained her pert girlish figure and lux mane we last saw on Trafalgar Square. The frock coat is gorgeous and that salmon coloured silk lining makes it and must feel heavenly.
    As someone who appreciates fine craftsmanship, labors of love, and beautiful writing this series has been quite a treat!

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    1. Dearest GSL,

      I'm thrilled that you've enjoyed this three-part series that I almost didn't write, and that you approve of our new bespoke wardrobe. Growing up in a household that always appreciated craftsmanship and quality over quantity seems so old-fashioned in our modern plastic fantastic world, but I make no excuses, old-fashioned I am!

      I am also blushing as rosy as my coat's lining at your overly generous comments with regards to locks and figure. It is amazing what a well-cut garment will disguise.

      Oh, and I wanted to let you know that I managed to view that wonderful Brummel drama, This Charming Man. Thank you for the recommendation, it was marvelous!

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  2. It was such a fascinating read! I honestly wish there was a film about the process as I find it absolutely mesmerising and very-very special. It is such a shame that this art is now available to very few people (and even more sad that not many would even think or fully appreciate this kind of work...) Thank you so much for sharing! x

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    1. Hello Natalia, and welcome back!

      I knew you would appreciate this story as you write so well about all things fashion.

      I wanted to address your comment on the fact that bespoke clothing is available to so few people. Perhaps this is because in today's designer crazy world, where buying a handbag costs a small fortune, it may be wiser to save a little extra, buy fewer items so that you may indulge in your dream item of clothing at a good tailor or seamstress instead. A beautifully made garment will last a lifetime, which is more than I can say for those ridiculously priced status bags that always seems to be yesterdays news.

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  3. Hello CD, I love this photo-documentary showing a master hand at work, and how fine material and extraordinary workmanship combine to make such impressive garments. All the more precious when it comes as a gift from your talented father. By the way, did you mention what fabric your own coat was made from? It seems much thinner than the heavy cashmere of your husband's.

    It strikes me that these qualities that go into custom-tailored clothes are the same that I search for in many antiques--fine materials and skill, and attention to functional or decorative details that time has mostly left behind.
    --Jim

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    1. Hello Jim,

      When my husband and I took the photographs of my father tailoring our coats, we did not intend for them to be part of a blog post two years later. We were just enjoying the process of watching his incredible talents in action. In hindsight, now that he is retired, we are thrilled that we captured the moment, so to speak, for posterity. It will be nice for our daughter to look over these photographs and see exactly how creative and talented her grandfather was.

      I agree that fine materials, skill, and attention to detail are what make an item worth owning and this philosophy is exactly how I choose to stock my own home and wardrobe, at least I strive to.

      Oh, and I believe my frock coat is also made of wool, but far lighter than my husband's winter coat. I should check in with my father but I recall there was some number associated with the word "Super".

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  4. CD,
    What an interesting story. I don't believe I had ever seen the details that go into a bespoke garment. What a treasure to have and especially since your father is the artist that made these items for you and your husband. I thoroughly enjoyed the story of your father's career.
    xo,
    Karen

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    1. Hello Karen,

      Thank you for your nice comment and again, I'm happy to read that you too have enjoyed this three-part series.

      It really is quite amazing to see the hidden stitching that is buried beneath those fine fabrics on bespoke jackets and coats. Also, for the trousers, it did not cross my mind that one could pick from several pocket styles and sizes to say nothing of pleats or flat fronts (flat for my husband), cuffs or no cuffs .... oh the list goes on and on.

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  5. Hello CD, and thank you for commenting on my blog as I've now discovered yours and have been in raptures at this first post I've read. I have a deep love for fine fabrics and bespoke details, and have long harboured fantasies of a couture dress or two or at a pinch some fine tailoring as your very talented Father can provide. I'm now casting a glance in my wardrobe at my Max Mara coat which until now seemed reasonably sumptuous and feeling it is no match to your pink silk lined coat with all its exquisite detail and horn buttons. I'm now off to delve into your archives as I feel we must be kindred spirits! Can't wait to read the first parts - the whole tailoring process is completely fascinating.

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    1. Hello Heidi,

      Thank you so much for stopping by and leaving such a nice comment. How lovely to discover that you too share an interest in fine clothing and all the little details that elevate an ordinary garment to something a little more special. I've often admired Max Mara coats (and yes, they are certainly sumptuous) and you are indeed fortunate to be able to don one at your pleasing.

      I encourage you to fulfill your couture dreams pronto and locate a local seamstress or tailor and see what sartorial delights await you.

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    2. CD, you and Heidi will soon be thick as thieves. Heidi has a real passion for embroidery and actually took classes in it and when you get a chance skim her blog as you'll find much to delight.

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    3. Yes, I'm very much looking forward to perusing the many posts on Heidi's lovely blog. I too used to do embroidery as a young lass and I actually need to pick up the needle to teach my own daughter now that she has reached the age where she won't be pricking herself on sharp instruments, ouch!

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  6. Dear CD,

    The garments are absolutely superb and I'm sure you'll both treasure them for a long time to come.

    Having been both giver and receiver of one-of-a-kind handmade items, I expect that your father would have derived as much pleasure from the crafting and giving of these gifts as you did receiving them.

    Thank you for sharing this fabulous story. I've relished every detail (to think you almost didn't post it!).

    Spud.

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    1. Hello Spud,

      So happy to read that you enjoyed all the little details that went into both the making of these clothes and the writing of the series. I know you've expressed an interest in tailoring from your previous comments and hope very much that seeing all of the hidden work featured in the photographs has helped unravel a few of the mysteries of tailoring.

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    2. I am utterly gasping here, this is so so wonderful, I adore all of the details of your frock coat and that line is swoon worthy.

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    3. Delighted that you liked the lines of my frock coat, which is high praise indeed coming from one of the most glamorous women to have ever graced the blogosphere.

      My father was making a similar ladies frock coat at the time he was making mine, complete with a satin collar and satin-covered buttons. I tried it on and it looked gorgeous but I opted to leave the satin off mine as it looked too formal, at least for the places I frequent when I have occasion to wear my coat.

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  7. Dear CD,
    What a fascinating and edifying post! Your photos show very clearly why bespoke tailoring is such a labor intensive effort and why it truly is an investment rather than just a purchase. For some reason, this brought to mind an episode from my childhood.many years ago. I had accompanied my mother to the furrier to retrieve a mink coat in summer storage. Another patron took one look at that coat and complained to the sales assistant, "Why doesn't my coat look like hers?" The sales rep responded in a somewhat censorious tone, "Madam, her coat is genuine."
    Well bespoke tailoring is in a class by itself. There is simply no comparison with off the rack clothing.
    Best,
    KL Gaylin

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    1. Hello KL Gaylin,

      As you state so well through the example of your mother's fur, there's nothing quite like the real thing. Obviously, bespoke Savile Row tailoring is a privilege few of us can afford, there are many good tailors and seamstresses to be found elsewhere, and if people subscribe to the philosophy of owning fewer but better quality items, they too could fulfill their dream of a bespoke coat or suit, or even a beautiful dress.

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  8. Dearest CD-I was so amused to see GSLs comment as I, too, had tingles just reading this. I love a thing done well-(obviously that's why I am devoted to your blog)and reading about your fathers workmanship and talent just makes me wistful. You will look beautiful in that coat-indeed, you already do and its not even done yet!-and Mr CD cuts a dashing figure in his new coat.
    Why is it, do you suppose, that watching an artist work with his hands is so absorbing and soothing? I could watch your father for hours. Like a drawing, a sculpture, or a painting, watching beauty created out of raw materials puts me almost in a trance

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    1. Hello Bebe,

      What a lovely and generous comment, thank you. I believe you speak like an artist yourself when you state so eloquently that "watching beauty created out of raw materials puts me almost in a trance". I've always appreciated artistry and craftsmanship no matter which medium is used. Perhaps that is why I dislike so many mass-produced, cheaply made (and easily disposable as a consequence) items - they all seem to lack true craftsmanship.

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  9. When I casually "flipped through" your post previously, without reading the text, I was ever so slightly discombobulated by the photographs of what was clearly a man being measured for a garment, (and I mistook that for the making of your frock coat)! Anyway, I have now properly read your post and I see it was a man, but it was your husband's coat, and not your frock coat. Your bathroom photo shows you to be the elegant lady in my imagination. It is wonderful to see the process. I have been fortunate to have most of my clothes made by tailors throughout my life, and I still return to the same tailor I used in Hong Kong when we lived there. Since I have lost a considerable amount of weight he takes the suits and other items "in", and all free gratis. I do occasionaly have items made here in Bangkok, but none measure up (pun intended) to my good Chinese tailor. No visit to Hong Kong is complete without a call at the tailor's, for refittings and all the shirts he makes for me too. Unfortunately one doesn't get the opportunity to wear suits here, (too hot, mostly).

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    1. Hello Columnist,

      Thanks for the chuckle this morning regarding your befuddlement over my "manly" shape. I'm glad you went back and read that there were two coats to this story.

      I've always heard of the tailors in Hong Kong and I'm happy to read you've been a satisfied customer for years. The great thing about bespoke garments, as you've discovered is their ability to be taken in/out as required.

      Also, shirts are another wonderful item to have made. My husband has a few from a shirt maker around Savile Row and I was fascinated to see the interior seams were so neatly sewn that you could turn the shirt inside out and not tell the difference.

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  10. Stupendous post about what can only be a labor of love. I appreciate seeing all the underpinnings of the process and think your choices for linings are wonderful - and then there's the added marvel of clandestine pockets! All proof that a true part of luxury does not always meet the eye.

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    1. Hello Gesbi, and thank you for stopping by and leaving your very nice comment.

      I agree with you wholeheartedly about luxury - it needn't be put on display at every opportunity.

      I'm glad you enjoyed the post and hope you come back again and often. I see you have your very own blog which I am about to have a gander and discover what inspires you to write.

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Please do leave a comment as I enjoy the dialogue with my readership, thank you.

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